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Adios

Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

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Adios    0

Miyot,

 

Thanks for the advice. Finally, a boat is taking shape but I'll be glad when she's turned and I can start on the inside. I'm making sure to get good squeeze out of excess epoxy, as you suggest. The image on the far left is a pre-fitted plank, no glue yet. I'm not going to this effort to skimp on the glue...not worth it!

I'll keep the updates coming now that warm weather is back

Thanks

John

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Adios    0

Now for an update.

I'm continuing to work on planking the hull. I'm working on both layers and both sides at the same time so it's slow going but at least when I get to the bow, I'm done.

The staples for the second layer are working pretty well but don't give any clamping pressure. They can only hold what you can get through clamping first. I found that strategically placed screws/fender washers help a lot. I'll have to go back and backfill the screw holes.

Hopefully I'll be done planking and can get on to fairing and glassing in the next few weeks.

I'm starting to think about the interior finish. I would like a more finished look on the inside by planking so the stringers cannot be seen. Any suggestions so as to not add too much weight?

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SteveVa    1

I would talk to Graham. There was a post on here awhile back where the guy finished off the interior and it looked really good. It might have even been a link to a facebook page. Boat is looking good.

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Adios    0

The last plank or two at the bow are very difficult. The 6mm ply can't tolerate the bend and I've broken multiple planks. If I've built correctly, the sheer clamp where it meets the stem is parallel to the waterline. The planking must make a severe bend to give it the characteristic Carolina bow flare. It may be that the diagonal angle that I am using to apply the planks is not acute enough so that there is too much bend and not enough twist to each plank. The plans call for two layers of overlapping 6mm planking on the sides. I finally decided to use 4 layers of 3mm ply in the last one foot or so to accommodate the bend and it seems to be working well. Has anyone else had this problem and am I doing something wrong?

The most foreword plank on the port side shown is two layers of 3mm fastened with screws and raptor staples.

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Designer    161

post-127-0-15174700-1431579053_thumb.jpgpost-127-0-23840200-1431579106_thumb.jpgJohn,

 

This is a very difficult bow to build and get it just right. The sheer clamp should have been flush to the stem . Your planking had to start out almost horizontal to almost a crease before it turned. If you look at the drawings, you will see that it is an easy curve.

 

It appears that your 1" square laminations run over and sit on top of the stem rather than but into the stem.

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Adios    0

Graham,

Thanks for the reply. I struggled with that issue and should have checked with you. I guess that I'm committed to it as is at this point. Any suggestions as I go forward?

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Designer    161

I do not think that you will have a problem structurally. I am concerned about how it will fair with the deck and the rub rail. You do not want it to droop or get thick as the bow comes to a point.

 

You might be able to glue some ply between the top stringer and the sheer on the inside and true it up on the outside with a grinder. With some careful shaping and some glass and epoxy, you should be able to recover.  

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Adios    0

Okay,

 

So I'm finishing the planking and figuring out how to deal with the error mentioned above but I have a question for the readership.

I want to leave the transom bright finished. The plans call for 1808 biaxial glass (2 layers of glass and 3/4 oz mat stitched together). I obviously can't cover the transom with  this and expect to clear coat. What is the strongest (heaviest?) glass to put on the transom and still expect to get a nice finish? E-glass? S-glass? Dynel?

I have to place an order soon.

 

Thoughts anyone?

 

Thanks

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Alan Stewart    62

The other way to do what you want is to glass the transom as specified then glue On thin veneers of the desired pretty wood to leave bright which are not structural.

Heavier but maybe easier.

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Adios    0

I think that I have the technical error at the bow under reasonable control and have finished planking. I had a lot of trouble understanding how the planking transitioned from the flare at stations one and two to the stem where it would only meet at the edge of the sheerclamp. I might also have had a bias, in my mind's eye, as to how I thought it should look as opposed to how Graham actually drafted it. That's why I'm the neophyte and he's the professional!

I used battens to shape and simply take off some of the excess overhang at the stem. I was careful to shape this so it wouldn't appear as an afterthought. I will build up the sheerclamp on the inside if need be. Although it still is not exactly as designed, I'm pleased with the shape and think it will be OK.

Now I'm sanding off globs and proud staples. I still have to round off the chines and transom edge so the glass will drape and then start the dreaded fairing routine. Hopefully have it glassed by the end of June.

I'm still debating the best way to glass the transom and keep it bright.

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capriosca    6

Adios,

May I ask why your great posts have ended here. Just waiting for my plans and seeing your photos has been a great help in getting the 3 dimensional concept. Hope the build has progressed successfully.

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Adios    0

For those of you asking, please accept my apology for so much time between posts. Very little work has been done this summer. The pace at work has been busy and time has been better spent with family. We also have had a very hot summer with many 95+ days which makes working with epoxy impossible. 

 

I'm back at it, though, and hope to have the boat turned before too much longer. I've sealed the wood with unthickened epoxy, faired with WEST fairing compound and glassed the transom just today.  We plan the glass the hull next weekend.

Pictures follow.

 

 

Unthickened epoxy rolled on with foam rollers to fill and seal woodgrain before application of fairing compound.

 

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Entire boat slathered with fairing compound. 

 

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Fairing board made with 6mm ply and #36 grit sanding belts.

 

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After LOTS of sanding and dust! Pretty fair at this point but still needs touchup of some shallow spots.

 

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Adios    0

I picked her up and put wheels under the strong back, cleaned up the dust to get things ready to glass the transom. The plan is to leave the transom bright and have an outboard on an Armstrong bracket

 

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I had previously painted the transom with epoxy (WEST 105/207) to protect the veneer from damage. It was sanded to remove gloss and cleaned of dust with acetone.

 

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Draped with 7.5 oz E-glass and taped in place

 

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and wetted out with 105/207. It took 2 additional coats (with foam rollers while green) to fill the weave. It came out very clear. I'll sand it with 220 or finer and add another coat before varnish.

 

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Don't know why that top picture keeps coming out sideways...sorry!

 

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Adios    0

For any of you who may have had an interest in this project, my apology. It has been a long time since I have posted but the project is still ongoing, SLOWLY.  It's a hobby after all.

Some updated photos follow. I am now at the point of glassing in the bilge compartments and thinking ahead to the interior finish.

After fairing,  the hull was covered with 18 oz glass, doubled at the keel and chines. After wetting out, peel ply was applied and all of the bubbles worked out.This was done in one stage (for strength) and took a surprising amount of epoxy. This part is not a one man job and the help of some interested and knowledgeable friends was very much appreciated.

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Adios    0

Peel ply coming off. I spite of best efforts, there were some tiny voids that were painstakingly open and filled with epoxy. An additional coat of unthickened epoxy was applied. Finally, a final fairing was done (mostly at the glass overlap along the chines) before painting. Priming was with interluxe barrier coat below the waterline and sanding epoxy primer above.

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