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Adios

Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

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makenmend    11

I know exactly what you mean on the time versus expense, Found that my planer purchase saved me many hours of sanding, so the piggy bank is going to hit soon. Thanks for your input.

 

MM

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Adios    0

Well, time has flown by with little time for boatbuilding and less time for posting to the forum. My bandsaw gave out and it took forever to get parts, work has been extra busy, hunting season opened...excuses, excuses!

I have had time for some work although I'm way behind my initially ambitious schedule. I had hoped to have the hull planked by now but milling and fitting of the side stringers and sheer have been more time consuming than I had thought.

Here are some updates since my last post.

The next step was fitting of the chine planks. These are 12 mm ply cut to shape and butt glued with doubters. The white batten is a piece of PVC trim moulding from Lowes. These are cheap and make good fairing battens. They come in various thicknesses and stiffness. The chines are overbuilt (too wide) deliberately and will be faired prior to planking the sides.

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Adios    0

Next, the side stringers, intermediate sheer and sheer clamp were tackled. Douglas fir was used, scarfed together in 26 ft lengths, milled to the appropriate dimensions and a 1/2" round put on the inside edges to facilitate draping of fiberglass later. I did have some problem with breakage and had to watch out for grain runout and other imperfections. Ratcheted tie down straps were the best way to bend these into place and took multiple test fits prior to gluing.

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Adios    0

Right now I'm working on the forward part of the sheer. This is the part forward of the "break" that gives the boat it's dramatic bow flare. It is 1x4", about 17' long and has a 90 degree twist and a rather severe bend. The plans call for 1x1" laminates but I say, not possible! Several attempts with 1x1 and 1x1/2 inch pieces resulted in failure even with fairly clear, tight grained wood.

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Adios    0

So now I'm using 1/4" laminates and will thicken them up to 3/8 or 1/2 as I build thickness. I should have known better, wasted time and wood but I'm back on track. Winter is setting in making epoxy work difficult, even here in the south. I'll keep you posted and comment/advice is appreciated.

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Adios    0

So, it warms enough during the day to mix up some epoxy and work on laminating the sheer. It will be 8 or 9 layers thick, one or two at a time with lots of clamps. This part is painfully slow but hopefully I can be done framing by the end of December. No shortcuts here. It will be more fun once planking starts again.

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slaudeman    0

Really looking good. I am hoping to start a 20' in the spring. My son in law just brought up the idea today of building a "hand paddle canoe" like one built by a neighbor when he was a kid. Got me on the net looking for ideas.

 

So far we have a 1/3 scale cardboard mock up. It is 24" long with a beam at midpoint of 4 5/8". Flat bottom and sides about 9" tall. It is a pleasing shape but I have no idea how it will work. I am lame about posting pics but will try to get help from the youngsters in the house. Full size will be 6' at water line, 14" wide at midship.

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lenm    3

Adios, many thanks for sharing your build and also others who have contributed.

Please Can anyone comment on how the bulkheads are best lined up accurately (in vertical height).

Is the keel set up nice and level/horizontal, and then the bulkheads hung in underneath?

I note there is only one vertical dimension shown on the plans (being the distance from the top of the jig to the top of the keel). I can see the last couple of bullheads are sitting well above the jig.

FYI I am the owner of plans for hull number 39 (Ockracoke 20) ready to start building soon.

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Designer    161

lenm,

 

You are right the keel is level. If the jig line is level and you set up the stations and bulkheads relative to the jig line, the keel will be automatically be level. The bulkheads are set up plumb. 

 

You will notice on the full size patterns that jig line is shown so that your stations and bulkheads will be set up at the correct height. As a further check you will see that the DWL which you will mark on the stations and bulkheads is 3'6" above the jig. Set up correctly, the keel/stem will drop into the slots and will be automatically level.

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lenm    3

Many Thanks for clarifying that Grahame.

I though I might be missing a plan showing a vertical/height dimension for each bulkhead/station.

I have now found that jig line you mention, marked on the full size template.

That's even easier!

Looking forward to getting things underway and will post a thread of the build soon.

Len

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Adios    0

Thanks for the comments.

I finally have the sheer clamp laminated and am installing the last 4 stringers. These "sheer stringers" have a rather severe bend as well as about 40 degrees or so of twist. After breaking a couple of stringers I decided to set up a steam chamber. It's hanging from the overhead rafters. By hanging it on an angle, the water drains from one end and the heat rises through the chamber more evenly. I used 4" metal HVAC duct, wrapped in insulation and fitted with an inexpensive clothing steamer. After steaming each piece for about an hour, they were bent into place and the shape held with multiple clamps. The long clamps are supported to get the right degree of twist. I let them dry for a couple of days before gluing.

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Adios    0

I was installing my last stringer tonight. I steamed this 1x1.25" piece for about 80 minutes, it bent on fairly easily and...POW! Broke another. I'll make a new stringer and try again tomorrow. I thought that the quality of the wood looked good, no grain runout, knots, etc. any suggestions?

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Designer    161

The stringer looks like fir to me. The problem with fir is that it is very stiff which is a great virtue unless you want to bend it. You would be better off with pine.

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Adios    0

I tried again today and have the last stringer on and drying. Graham, you are correct, it's Douglas fir. I had plenty of fir and cypress and the fir had better grain and handled better. I didn't even think of using pine.

I'll glue the stringer on in a day of two, once dry, and start fairing the framing. I'm really looking forward to getting on with the next step of planking the sides.

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Adios    0

Wow. It's been quite a while since I've posted any notes of my progress. It was cold here in Charleston, like the rest of the country, and working with epoxy in January, February and March was quite difficult. I was out of town for a while and then came home to back surgery and back to work. Anyway, I'm way behind where I had hoped to be at this point.

The framing is finished and faired and I started planking the sides recently. The sides are two layers of 6mm okoume ply. I'm putting on the first layer with 3/4" #8 bronze screws and the second layer with raptor staples. So far , so good... Progress is fairly quick.

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Miyot    25

I remember this all to well.  Looking nice and clean Adios.  Just make sure your getting a nice consistency with the epoxy and not getting any voids.  Looking really good.

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