msaxton Posted March 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 Got some pics of where I added framing around where the hatches are going. Footrest install, and the dreaded coaming up next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msaxton Posted March 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 Lack of work on the project this week, pretty busy at work this week, hopefully get started on the coaming this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 I have been looking at the photos of the hatch and wondering how you plan on skinning it and attaching the skin to the hatch rings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msaxton Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 I assume you drill holes in it and sew it just like you do with the coaming, or am i missing your meaning? The hatches are not to be attached to the framing if that's what you mean, that is just there to beef it up where the center stringer was taken out. I just had them sitting there as a reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msaxton Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 Picked up a nice 2"x4"x8' oak board for the coaming, by my calculations i should be able to get enough strips out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 There isn't a wrong or right way but was just curious to what you had in in mind. I have only done one set and this is how I did them. http://www.kudzucraft.com/articles/hatches/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msaxton Posted April 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Well, have been super busy at work so have not got a lot done on the Nimrod. Changed my approach to the hatches and am kinda going more towards the way Jeff did his. Got the adjustable footrests mounted. Have got all my oak strips cut, planed, and sanded for the coaming, just need to get a steamer set up, Most likely going to just use a pvc pipe and a curtain steamer we have on hand. Interestingly, i was able to dry wrap one of the oak strips all the way around the coaming frame, even the sharp round and it finally snapped at the sharp round as I was holding it tight, so shouldn't take much steaming to make it work. Am getting very close to being ready to skin it. Decided to go with Spirit Line's Poly for the coating, received it Monday. Will try to get pics tomorrow, had camera issues again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msaxton Posted April 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 Ok, back at it, I hate how making a living interrupts the important things in life,,,,like building a kayak! So, like I said before, i changed the approach to making the hatch openings as seen in the pics, will sand to round off the edges of the plywood to avoid abrasion of the skin. Some pics of the footrests mounted too. Also, got my steamer set up ready to go to work tomorrow steaming my oak for the coaming. I'm using a 10 foot piece of 4" pvc, in the pics are the end caps that will be mounted on the pipe. The one with the single brass fitting is where the steamer will hook up, this end will be slightly raised up. The other cap with the two nylon fittings and the screw in cap is an idea i came up with. I drilled holes for the two nylon fittings, when the cap is screwed in completely it blocks the holes. Will be one fitting on top and one on bottom, the top fitting is for steam release and the bottom is for water to drain. By doing it this way I can control the amount of steam released, and can release all of it prior to taking the cap off and lowering the risk of steam burns. (there will also be one other small hole drilled just big enough for a thermometer to go in to help monitor the steam and heat) Well that's all for now, will be working on coaming tomorrow, then once that is done, I am pretty much ready to start skinning! Yay! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DURRETTD Posted April 13, 2014 Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 A friend barely escaped serious injury when he applied air pressure to a section of PVC pipe. I'd be concerned that the high temperature could weaken the PVC and lead to failure far below the pressure the pipe is rated for. Be very careful to keep the pressure very low! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted April 13, 2014 Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 Steam under pressure is extremely dangerous. You never want to actually build any pressure, you always want an open hole to bleed off the pressure. Steam under pressure should never be taken lightly! Now, as for float bags, since you have a frame built, how about measuring it for me? Odds are I have something that will work all ready. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msaxton Posted April 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 A friend barely escaped serious injury when he applied air pressure to a section of PVC pipe. I'd be concerned that the high temperature could weaken the PVC and lead to failure far below the pressure the pipe is rated for. Be very careful to keep the pressure very low! I did not glue the end caps on and was able to adjust the pressure release by screwing the one end cap in and out. It worked perfect!there was actually a constant bleed of pressure the way I had it set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msaxton Posted April 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 Got the wood steamer made, used a Conair curtain steamer, PVC pipe, end cap and screw cap. Put fittings on it for input, water drain, and steam release/ temp gauge. It worked perfectly! Steamed the oak strips ( the steamer would only get to about 190-200 degrees, but it did the trick) and bent them around the form and clamped them. Will let them dry a few days before I do anything more to them. There are more strips then what the pic shows, took it about half way through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msaxton Posted April 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 Now, as for float bags, since you have a frame built, how about measuring it for me? Odds are I have something that will work all ready. I'm assuming A, B, X and Y are circumference inside the frames? Also, since I have hatches, I'm thinking measure all the way through that area for when I have no cargo, and if I have cargo just not inflate them as much, sound about right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 I'm assuming A, B, X and Y are circumference inside the frames? Also, since I have hatches, I'm thinking measure all the way through that area for when I have no cargo, and if I have cargo just not inflate them as much, sound about right? Circumference OUTSIDE the frame. I know, it sounds funny but trust me. Ignore the hatches. If you have cargo you will still just fill the bags till they get tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msaxton Posted April 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 Gotcha, will probably be able to run by the shop tomorrow sometime and measure it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msaxton Posted April 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 Finally got to the shop today to get some work done on the important stuff! Retied a few lashings that I wasn’t really liking. Installed cedar strips for the seat area. Sewed the fabric on the ends. The fabric is a precolored royal blue 11 ounce nylon with the inside coated with poly, making it around 12 oz per yard. Sewed the bow, removed it, marked the stern and pulled 3 inches to sew the stern. When done I absolutely could not stretch it enough to put the stern on. Removed stitching and sewed it about 2.5 inches and stretching it was still very difficult, but it did finally work. I think this may be due to the inside of the nylon being coated with Polyurethane, guess it just doesn’t stretch as much, thinking that’s a good thing as it pulls real tight and seems to stay tight so far. Started glueing up the layers of oak on the coaming. Next I need to make some slings on my uprights to set it in for sewing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msaxton Posted April 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Yes! There is such a thing as spring in northern Minnesota. First open water Ive seen around here, on the river a few blocks from my place. Definitely getting the itch to paddle! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msaxton Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Sewed the skin on today, went really well, Very few ripples and those are where the hatches and coaming go and will be removed just by installing them. Since this is my first skin boat I have nothing to personally compare to, but the Ballistic Nylon with poly backing I got was a dream to work with, sewed pretty much drum tight. My only concern is if ironing it will affect the poly backing, will play around with a sample to see if there is any problem. It sewed so tight that I was thinking it may not need to be ironed, but will do it anyway since i don't know what will happen once it gets wet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Gingerbread Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Looking good. Wish I could put my shad beside it and see the size/line difference. Love the blue! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JReed Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Doesn't look like you need to do a lot of shrinking on that skin. Looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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