Jump to content

Brass strips * input please


Kudzu

Recommended Posts

I have 3 - 6 foot lengths in stock.  I am thinking about offering them in 3' or maybe 4' and 2' lengths? 

What lengths do you think you would want?

 

I could sell 6' strip but it is pain to ship and mailing tubes alone cost  $8 each plus shipping. 4' long tubes drop to $2-$3 each.  

 

I have to figure all this out before I can move forward and price them. Shipping is always a pain in the rear!

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I did some measuring on my boats and it seems to me that 2' and 3' lengths are good for most boats. 2' being a little long on say a Curlew stern but it works perfect in a lot of boats. 3' is just about right on a Baidarka or the long curve on a Shad.  I don't really see any need for a 4' length. So it looks to me like 2' and 3' lenghts are just about right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would offer the short lengths for people who build one boat.  Figure out what lengths you recommend and offer them as such.  I would opt for long lengths as it can be cut with more options to achieve less waste.  But then I will use it on future builds, either kayaks or other boats.  Shipping really is the issue.  What is the max length for UPS or USPS?  That would be the biggest consideration.  That stuff is expensive, and even though it is worth it, it could get over priced if shipping is prohibitive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think as long as the cost stays consistent (ie. the price for three 2' sections is reasonably close to the price of the 6' section, assuming Jeff is making the cuts?) then people would be more comfortable buying multiple of the shorts.  I would have no problem buying a bulk package of the shorts knowing they will work on the boats I have completed and plan to complete versus buying fewer of the 6' pieces and having to cut them myself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

............... versus buying fewer of the 6' pieces and having to cut them myself.

Cutting brass with a hand hack saw is a joke.  Then you can round over the ends very easily with a belt sander, quite easily with a RO sander and even by hand if you had to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am reading the comments. One thing to keep in mind is there really wouldn't be any scrap... well on my boats anyway. As I said, the piece was a little long on the Curlew stern but that just means it would go further down the keel than was needed. I wouldn't cut it off, I would just screw it in place.

 

Which brings up the next issue. These are not pre-drilled. I drilled my first one and found it was very hard to put on that way. It bends very easy at the screw hole and it was hard to make it take the shape of the boat. Now what I do it put in one screw at the beginning. Then bend the strip into shape. It will not be perfect but it is close. Then I take it off, mark for screw holes and drill and counter sink it. 

 

I can drill them and ship them flat and that would probably be OK on a gentle curve like the bow of a Shad, but on a Baidarka or Sling Shot there is a lot of curve there and it's going to be  hard to bend it and not break it with screw holes.

 

Posted Image

 

 

If you look near the bottom I  had problem with this one. I removed it and spaced the holes much closer and did manage to pull it in place. But it was shaped to fit or it would have very likely broken at the drilled holes.

 

Now you see why I have been stalling on putting these in the store? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, even if you do not break it at a screw hole it is likely to kink at the hole instead of a nice fair bend.  I suggest drilling very tiny straight holes every 4-6 inches before bending, as starting holes on a bent and rounded piece of stock is tedious and very difficult to get centered on the stock..  Then after bending to shape place the bent piece on a curved mandrel (piece of wood cut to a curve with equal or smaller radius than the bent brass) to enlarge the holes and add the counter sink.

 

I agree Jeff, I don't think there is any such thing as a piece too long for a boat.  If it weren't so expensive I would consider using brass along the entire keel and up the bow and stern.

 

This isn't for everyone.  It adds cost to the build and is somewhat tedious and time consuming to do well.  But it sure is purty!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would it be okay to make the plot holes as described, prebend, drill/counter sink the first hole at the top of the strip.  Mount it, hold the strip in place and then drill the finish size hole in the strip and the piece of wood it is being screwed, to then counter sink, then use the screws.  You need to drill a pilot hole into the wood anyway.  I put a little sealant into each hole as I went also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Would it be okay to make the plot holes as described, prebend, drill/counter sink the first hole at the top of the strip.  Mount it, hold the strip in place and then drill the finish size hole in the strip and the piece of wood it is being screwed, to then counter sink, then use the screws.  You need to drill a pilot hole into the wood anyway.  I put a little sealant into each hole as I went also.

 

I don't suggest this. 

1.  When you drill the clearance hole (the hole large enought for the screw to fit through) in the brass and break through you will likely damage the boat or at least over drill into so that the screws won't hold. 

2.  I don't think a dab of sealant added through the hole is enough.

 

If you want to drill the pilot hole (the screw hole through the skin into the keel stringer) for the first screw, then attach the end of the strip dry (before sealant) so as to be able to accurately lay out and drill the rest of the pilot holes; I think this is a great idea.  Then remove the first screw, smear a dab of sealant over the pilot holes on the skin and over the clearance holes on the back of the strip, and assemble.  Sealant works best when you break the surface tension between the sealer and both parts, then fit wet on wet.  Then after you screw it together remove the excess and clean with solvent.  I always bed hardware on boats with a polysulfide such as 3M 101 or Boatlife Lifecaulk.  I never, ever, ever use anything with silicone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My comment about Jeff cutting the strips was more about added time to Jeff's schedule. 

 

Is it easier for him to cut the strips down versus shipping them long and how much is that time worth to him?  In other words is he going to add a cost to the short strips to account for his time to cut and sand the ends that would put the short pieces on par with shipping the long pieces?  Then it isn't worth it to me to order the short pieces since I would rather get a long piece and custom cut it for the boats.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Someone understands business!   :)   But cutting them is quick and easy and cheaper than shipping 6' foot lengths.

 

I have decided to just offer 2' and 3' lengths. That will cover 99% of the needs. Short mailing tubes are reasonably priced. If someone wants a longer strip I can do that special and that will cost more of course. I am trying to get boats cleaned up and reskinning the demo boat for a exhibit Friday night. I am going to try to get these listed today or tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One complicating issue is that the location of the pilot holes is in part dependent on the location of the keel-bow (or stern) connection - that is, you don't want to find that you pre-drilled a screw hole directly over the lashing or over the meeting point of the two frame pieces. I speak from experience, having pre-drilled a laminated wood stem at nice even 5 in. intervals only to find a hole located directly on top of the joint. (Oops - measure twice, drill once!) Anyway, this will vary from boat-to-boat and supports the approach described by Jeff: "...put in one screw at the beginning. Then bend the strip into shape. It will not be perfect but it is close. Then I take it off, mark for screw holes and drill and counter sink it."  That gives you an opportunity to also mark exactly where you DON'T want to drill.  Works for me.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

....as starting holes on a bent and rounded piece of stock is tedious and very difficult to get centered on the stock....

Make a mark in the material with a center punch/hammer where you want the hole to go and the drill bit won't drift.

 

Yes, I know.   It is still difficult, and working on a solid surface at an angle to the work you choose instead on the boat is much easier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Where should I start the brass strip? Jeff, I notice that you started the strip at the deck in the above posting. Did you use a stitch different than the roll stitch? I considered starting mine at the bottom of the roll stitching. I figure that the roll stitching would interfere with the brass strip.

 

Gary in Wake Forest.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.