SteveKos Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Did you build the daggerboard yet? If not, then don't glue up that trunk until you make sure it fits. And I mean the daggerboard is epoxied and painted, ready to use. Then epoxy the insides of the trunk, dry fit (temporarily clamp together) and check for fit with the finished daggerboard Yes, thanks again Hirilonde. I was planning to do all that, but I was going to go the other way and size the daggerboard to the trunk. I think your way might be better as I will be using ply for this one, and 3 layers is 18mm plus glass and glue, so it might end up being a little oversize for the standard trunk. How would you suggest shiming out the trunk if the daggerboard is oversize? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Do the plans call for glass? They do not for the 9, just 3/4" aka 18mm ply. . How would you suggest shiming out the trunk if the daggerboard is oversize? Just cut the king posts (for and aft ends of the trunk) to fit the daggerboard. Or build them up as is necessary. Gotta love epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveKos Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Same for the 11. 18mm ply or laminated battens. I am going with the ply for now, and maybe will make a laminated one later. I was going to make my daggerboard with 2 layers of 6mm and one of 4mm with glass either side of the middle section and sheathed in glass as well. That should make a nice strong daggerboard about 19-20mm all up. This daggerboard and trunk affair is the most fiddly bit of the whole build so far. I was thinking of a Jim Machalak style leeboard at one stage but decided against it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I wouldn't redesign anything about the Spindrift. I doubt sincerely you will improve anything. And if Graham specs something out that is structural, you can rest assured you don't need to make it stronger. A laminated wood daggerboard is about the only change in design I see any merit to, but on these small boats it isn't necessary. The only glass on mine is the tape called for in the plans. And one of my favorite things about the boat is how light it is. I don't know of anyone who doesn't appreciate having a really light weight boat once they have had one. If you know you are going to beat the boat up, then maybe you need to look at it differently. The only modifications I made were: 1. The tiller pivots up and down and is removable. 2. I added a swivel block/cam cleat to the top aft of the daggerboard. (there is no where to put one in the aft part of the nesting version and not be in the way of nesting) 3. I used Garry's nesting hardware instead of the holes in the nesting bulkheads near the bottom. I understand that people want to personalize their boats. That is part of building it instead of just buying a boat. But I never understand an amateur boat builder re-speccing a boat designed by a more than reputable marine architect. This is what I paid Graham for when I bought the plans. Anyway, now that I have given you my 2¢ I will get down off my soap box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveKos Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I wouldn't redesign anything about the Spindrift. I doubt sincerely you will improve anything. And if Graham specs something out that is structural, you can rest assured you don't need to make it stronger. A laminated wood daggerboard is about the only change in design I see any merit to, but on these small boats it isn't necessary. The only glass on mine is the tape called for in the plans. And one of my favorite things about the boat is how light it is. I don't know of anyone who doesn't appreciate having a really light weight boat once they have had one. If you know you are going to beat the boat up, then maybe you need to look at it differently. The only modifications I made were: 1. The tiller pivots up and down and is removable. 2. I added a swivel block/cam cleat to the top aft of the daggerboard. (there is no where to put one in the aft part of the nesting version and not be in the way of nesting) 3. I used Garry's nesting hardware instead of the holes in the nesting bulkheads near the bottom. I understand that people want to personalize their boats. That is part of building it instead of just buying a boat. But I never understand an amateur boat builder re-speccing a boat designed by a more than reputable marine architect. This is what I paid Graham for when I bought the plans. Anyway, now that I have given you my 2¢ I will get down off my soap box. Thanks mate. There is a difference between slight personalized modifications and 're-speccing'. And there is no such thing as a 'perfect' design for anything on earth. Every boat design can be successfully adapted to particular needs within reason. I haven't met him personally but I have corresponded with Graham, and I doutbt her is as concerned as you seem to be about minor personalizations. That said, I respect your points and will think carefully about things I might not be able to fix easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveKos Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Latest pics and update: When looking at the last components I needed to complete the build I realised that I was going to be a bit short of ply. I had enough for everything except one piece needed to build the daggerboard. I was thinking about using some 4mm ply I had, and a couple of layers of glass to fill it out to the required thickness, but in the end I managed to buy a half sheet of the same ply as I have used from my supplier. So I now have enough to complete the job and to make all components as specified by Graham. (See Hirilonde, I'm not so head-strong as you might think ) So I have now cut out and am gluing the daggerboard: This Bosch orbital sander is quicker than a plane when used with coarse grit disks. My favourite power tool. I also cut and fine-fitted the main side tank/seat tops. It was a bit of a scary process. I took the trouble to run a centre string line and measured from this to the inside and outside of the seats every 200mm to 'loft' the panels. As it worked out, I only needed to do one side as the measurements were virtually identical and symetrical, which I was very pleased (and surprised) about. Any way I managed to cut out the shape and fit them without too much cold sweat. Test fitting the initial panel cut to the outside from my 'lofting' measurements. Scribing the outside cut. I also love this Ryobi jigsaw! Not very clear shot of the panel after cutting to the scribed line. I then traced the inside cuts from the stringers underneath, allowing for the centre and aft seat protrusions which were measured when working out the position of the daggerboard. These two panels were the hardest to get right, but I'm very happy with the result. Next is going to be finishing off the side seats. finishing the daggerboard, the daggerboard trunk, centre and aft seats, making the rudder assembly, and fitting the aft knees. Then I can start fairing everything in prep for painting and finishing. Then it's making and fitting the mast and the sail, prepping and painting, attaching all the fittings and on the water! I reckon I will have her completed for a shakedown before Easter. I've been thinking of a name. I'm thinking of naming it after my daughter Amy, but other names are up for consideration as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveKos Posted March 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 This is my daggerboard ready for finishing. It took about 2 hours of sanding to get it right. I totally covered everything in my garage with sanding dust, and I think I will have to buy my neighbours a good bottle of wine as an apology for the incessant noise . Next is the finishing. I will coat it with three coats of epoxy. I was also thinking of applying 2 pack polyester resin over that for UV stability. Is that a good idea? Will the poly adhere to the epoxy? It probably doesn't really need it because the daggerboard is going to be under the boat most of the time when out, and under cover when at home. Then once I have the finished daggerboard I can finish the daggerboard trunk to fit snuggly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 Looks like a good job on the board, which appears to be a rotating centerboard, to be mounted with a pivot pin and left in the boat? If so, that is different from my Spindrift 10n, which does has a true daggerboard. Perhaps the plans have changed? Anyway, as an alternative to finish it, I might suggest you put down a single layer of glass cloth on your board, then fill the weave, vs. 3 coats of epoxy. Whatever, no polyester resin (or gel coat........same thing). If you intend to leave your board bright, there is no clear coating I'm aware of that is recommended for anything approaching long term immersion. But that applies to almost all topside paint systems too. Epoxy paint or bottom paint. Short term, you could use the polyurethane clear coatings (say Interlux Goldspar) or most any of the topsides paint. Again, only short term immersion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveKos Posted March 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 Looks like a good job on the board, which appears to be a rotating centerboard, to be mounted with a pivot pin and left in the boat? If so, that is different from my Spindrift 10n, which does has a true daggerboard. Perhaps the plans have changed? Anyway, as an alternative to finish it, I might suggest you put down a single layer of glass cloth on your board, then fill the weave, vs. 3 coats of epoxy. Whatever, no polyester resin (or gel coat........same thing). If you intend to leave your board bright, there is no clear coating I'm aware of that is recommended for anything approaching long term immersion. But that applies to almost all topside paint systems too. Epoxy paint or bottom paint. Short term, you could use the polyurethane clear coatings (say Interlux Goldspar) or most any of the topsides paint. Again, only short term immersion. Thanks Howard. The board is a true daggerboard, not a centreboard with a pivot. The plans haven't changed as far as I know, and it is built to spec. The distortion of the lens does make the top section look a bit different in the shot. Actually there are some 2 pack polyesters which are made for long term immersion, but they require many coats to be applied. I will probably glass it as you suggest. The plans don't mention it but I like the idea of the abrasion resistance of the glass, and it will make it more suited to long term immersion. I intend to build a laminated strip board later on so the longevity of this one isn't so much of a concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveKos Posted March 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 The latest.... Side seat tops on. Daggerboard has 3 coats of epoxy. I didn't glass it after all. I don't think it will need it, and if it gets damaged I will make the laminated strip one I was going to make anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveKos Posted March 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 Latest pics. Tonight I completed installing the seat and rear storage tops. Finished the final coat on the daggerboard and glassing the trunk sides. I'll finish the daggerboard trunk and install the centre seat this weekend. Next it's fairing the whole cockpit and topside ready for painting and then it's working on the hull and installing the keel strake. I should be at least priming this coming week and be ready to paint by this time next week. I bought the aluminum tubing and dowell for the mast yesterday. I couldn't get fir or anything light in a 45mm dowell so I have an Australian Oak one. It's a bit heavy but i think I will taper it a bit to shed some weight. Still a bit to do but I am on track to have her ready to launch by Easter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 Ready to launch by Easter! Great to see you progressing so quickly. My wife groaned to me almost every time I went to my boat shed for a bit of me time. Maybe I should ditch her before I start on the next boat. Good luck with the remainder of the build. If I had the time I would love to trailer my boat down to Adelaide for the launch or should I say a race. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 I couldn't get fir or anything light in a 45mm dowell so I have an Australian Oak one. It's a bit heavy but i think I will taper it a bit to shed some weight. Did you try looking for closet rod? In my area you end up with Douglas Fir when you do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveKos Posted March 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 Ask for closet rod here in my city and they think you want aluminium tube . I think I have found another supplier who has pine rod in 45mm. I'll check them out today. I hope I can return the one I have, it wasn't cheap and I don't need it for anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveKos Posted March 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 Ready to launch by Easter! Great to see you progressing so quickly. My wife groaned to me almost every time I went to my boat shed for a bit of me time. Maybe I should ditch her before I start on the next boat. Good luck with the remainder of the build. If I had the time I would love to trailer my boat down to Adelaide for the launch or should I say a race. Reminds me of that joke about a guy who put an ad in the personal columns: "Outdoor loving gentleman looking for lady companion with boat. Reply with picture of boat". My wife isn't totally in love with my boat project either, but she is impressed with how it's looking. She isn't a boat person, but she has agreed to go for a sail if it's not too rough when it's finished. As I said earlier, I get home from work around 4:00, so I can get a lot done before the "handbrake" comes home. That way I don't need to spend all my evenings on the boat, but I do try to get out after dinner most nights, even if it's just for half an hour. It's amazing how much I can get done that way. Last night I was thinking through what I still need to do, and Easter may be looking a bit optimistic to have her sail-ready by then. We are going away camping in the Flinders for a few days leading up to Easter (to avoid the crowds!), and that might mean not quite having her ready for that weekend. I don't want to rush things and compromise on the finish quality. Painting involves a lot of prep, and it can take longer than anticipated to get everything just right. Never mind, if it is another week or two that's ok. I was hoping for an Easter launch because in Adelaide that tends to be the time the weather shifts from an autumn pattern to a winter pattern, that's all. I was hoping to get a few sailing sessions in while the weather was still mild to get used to how she handles. I picked up most of my paint and gear yesterday. I have had to order in the 2 pack poly but it will be in before I need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveKos Posted April 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Spent a few days making the daggerboard trunk and filling and sanding little gaps and imperfections in the interior areas. Not much to show for alot of work . Over the weekend I test fitted, marked out and cut the slot for the daggerboard. Tonight I cut the hole for the rear hatch, and fitted, filleted and taped the daggerboard trunk in place. After building the daggerboard trunk less one side panel, and testing for the DB fit, I temporary-fitted the trunk in place and marked out the slot. Then I drilled two 20mm holes, jigsawed the slot and sanded to size. Notice the oversized sanding pad. I bought the wrong ones but they work fine on my multi-tool. Marked out the rear hatch. Note the off-centre position. I came up with that idea when trying to work out how I could get a large hatch in place that would open under the tiller. I also want to be able to store folding camp chairs and tables, tent poles etc, and this way I can slide them in. I intend to set the hatch up to open "backwards". That way I can open the lid all the way to make loading and unloading easy. The hatch is a Nuovo twin-lock hatch. It is supposed to be pretty waterproof as the lid covers the frame totally and has a good quality rubber seal. I will test it with my garden hose with a high-pressure nozzle when I'm finished. As long as it's splash-proof I'll be happy. The trunk filleted and taped in place. The slack string was a centre string-line for lining up the trunk to the CL. I used a spirit level to perfectly level the boat horizontally, then the trunk vertically, all dead-on as best I could get it. Here's a bonus shot of my 4wd in action on a recent trip. It is relevant, as it shows the roof-bars I will be using to cartop the boat . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveKos Posted April 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 By the way Hirilonde, I did manage to get a pine dowel. I've ordered it because it wasn't a standard stock item. I can take the Tasmanian Oak one back to the other supplier for a refund, so that's all sorted out now. I haven't seen the pine one but I'm sure it will be lighter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveKos Posted April 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 Latest pics. I'm finished building the topside. Just fitting the forward hatch then sanding and painting now. I'll finish the rudder this week, and hopefully have the hull finished with another coat of epoxy on the glass, ready to start painting next week. I can see the finish of this project now. It is so satisfying when you see something sitting there that you made with your own hands. It never ceases to thrill! I'm looking forward to getting her (still unnamed) wet in a few weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
labrat Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Well Steve, it's only a couple more days to easter and with the amount of work left in the last post it looks tight to launch this weekend. On the other hand that post was 10 days ago, and let's face it, if anyone can pull an easter bunny out of this particular hat I reckon it would be you. So how's it going - just 1 photo will ease our suspense . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveKos Posted April 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2014 Hi Well Steve, it's only a couple more days to easter and with the amount of work left in the last post it looks tight to launch this weekend. On the other hand that post was 10 days ago, and let's face it, if anyone can pull an easter bunny out of this particular hat I reckon it would be you. So how's it going - just 1 photo will ease our suspense . Hi Bob, yes Easter was a bit ambitious after all. I have been away all this week on a camping trip up in the Flinders Ranges, so things have ground to a halt for a week and a half. I have the main build completed bar a few bits and pieces but it will still be a couple of weeks away I'm afraid. I'll call you to arrange a catch up for the launch if you're interested. PM me your current phone details. Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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