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Why not another CS17 Build Thread? Here's #366


mattp

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Lennie: the gussets are shown in the Aft Deck Plan. I can't remember which arrangement you are building but I realized yesterday that the forward part of the coaming is a little different than in the open version so the gusset would be different.

With the aft deck, there are two types of knees or gussets. The forward one goes against the foredeck beam and the other one is back a few feet.

I hope to get some solid boat time this weekend so I can stop thinking about it and just do it.

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 Of course, I am fully counting on epoxy for protecting my soft okoume from dings and scrapes.

 

I question whether it does much for this either.  It is a waterproof barrier, better than virtually any other coating.  Rub rails, keels, chine strips (these are not in B&B plans, but can be added), or fiberglass and other laminated materials are the best for protecting the plywood, but you pay for it in weight.  These are not fragile boats.  A little care avoids a lot of minor damage.  And remember, if you can build it, you can repair it.

 

Well said H. The great thing about S&G building is that there is virtually no damage that cannot be repaired with the same tools used to build it in the first place. I dropped my kayak off my roof rack once and it split almost in half crossways at the front bulkhead (it is made from 3mm oukume). I thought it was done for but I was able to repair it almost good as new in a couple of hours. Also, when building it I noticed toward the end of the build that the aft transom was off square (I know, I know :rolleyes: ). I just cut it all off straight, sanded it all true and epoxy-taped it back on. No-one would ever know (except for the photos I published on another forum). Obviously the bigger the boat the more time and expense in making repairs, but it is reassuring all the same.

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Matt-

Sometimes I feel like I missing a page of plans. I looked thru entire set of plans this morning and do not see an aft set of deck plans etc. I am that not at the stage yet so it maybe doesn't matter but for the life of me I cannot see where these things get attached to nor how one does the coaming. Look forward to your progress and making headway myself. I am stuck with beginning hull work, reorganizing my work space and maybe avoiding sanding, painting stage :)

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Moving right along:  We started tinkering with the carlins yesterday and I left to attend a 6 year old's birthday party (seems like one every weekend) and my build partner powered through and got them screwed and glued in place.  He ended up just making the carlin angle perpendicular to the beam at that point and I think even though it may be slightly different from plans but I think it looks good.

 

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I estimated the angle of the rounded corner blocks and printed out full scale templates. They worked well as guessed and helped shape the sweep of the carlin. 

 

And I'll end with a question again:

It looks to me like the oarlocks on the plans are located so that the rower would sit on the thwart.  I'd rather not have to pull the mizzen mast to row so I think the best place may be straddling the cb case.  Does anyone have an oarlock location that works well for auxiliary rowing, ie. Pulling through a wind lull, negotiating through tight spots, or anytime one would need to row with the rig still up?

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Yesterday, my 5 year old and I drove all the way out to the boat for no other real reason than to just put the masts up...because we could.  The mizzen step and thwart partner need a little sanding adjustment to make the fit better and correct for a slight out of plumb.  Other than that, it looks good.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Tonight: First coat of varnish on the sprits and thwart.  I am not really a fine finish kind of guy but I must admit that I enjoy watching the transformation of the varnishing process.   

 

The first coat doesn't present much shine but the tung and linseed oils in the Le Tonkinois add a nice rich color.

 

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Tomorrow: Taking a vacation day to get the decks installed.  Monday night, we worked late roughing out the pieces.  We are reaching the limits of our epoxy and filler supply.  The drama...

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Hi Matt,

 

Thanks for that, I was getting tired of looking at all the photos upside down and finally someone has the decency to post some photos the right way up for us down under. Your almost there, not far to go now.

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Exciting times in boat building. We had a recently set optimistic splash date of Memorial Day (5/26) and I think we could do it with many loose ends left, but I don't know. Might be smarter to slow down and get these steps done right.

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Plugging screw holes with toothpicks. I kind of jab them in there a few times and spin them around to try and get the goo all the way down in the hole. This time I started with a few drops of unthickened to have a better change of saturating the very bottom of the hole. I probably do this a little different each time.

Good question. Stealth builds? I wonder how many of the 370 have actually been started and then how many have been completed.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had to dig deep in the thread list to find mine.  It's been busy around here!

 

We are close...real close....deck is epoxy coated and that's probably as far is it will get before the first sail.  We have a dozen or so rigging loose ends to tie up but we are hoping to splash this coming Sunday even if I have to hold lines in my teeth!

 

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Nice work. Do yourself a favor and round over the inside edges of the hole, cut in the bottom for the Anderson bailer. You may also want to consider waxing the bailer body ( I use regular 'ol Turtle Wax, several coast), where it sticks up through the planking, temporarily bolting it in place and pouring slightly thickened epoxy around it, so the end grain is covered and sealed. The wax will let you remove the bailer and bed it properly with an adhesive sealant, after the epoxy is cured and you'll have a precisely form fitting hole for it, that also protects the planking. Keep up the good work and post some more building shots . . .

Paul-

I know this is a great suggestion. Just to make it clear you are talking about the hull side of the boat, right? Should there be a layer or two of epoxy and then the sealer on the hull side or does any of this refer to the cabin side? Thanks

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  • 1 month later...

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