Jump to content

Why not another CS17 Build Thread? Here's #366


mattp

Recommended Posts

Traditional alkyd varnishes don't have the UV resistance of the polyurethanes, nor the hardness or durability either. Additionally, the urethanes can be more glossy too, if this is important. This said, the urethanes are much harder to repair and refinish if you let them get away from you, so pick your poison carefully.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Sail track:

 

My original plan was to drill and tap 6-32 for every available hole in the track and fasten with SS pan head screws with a dab of tefgel.  As I was doing this, it occurred to me that since the upper sections are only .065" thick, I will only get two threads in the soft aluminum which I find concerning.  Anybody use only screws in their track without issue?

 

So now I am thinking about using SS rivets in the upper thin sections except for about 12" above the joints to allow some adjustment for the diameter change.  Last night I tried a 5/32 dia. rivet and a 1/8" dia rivet.  The hole size will accommodate either size but only the head of the 1/8" dia. will lie flat in the channel of the track.  What is the best size for this track?  Is 1/8" sufficient?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Overdue for an update:

 

Tiller varnish in progress with Le Tonkinois No. 1.  Product was selected by googling "easy varnish".  Sanding not required between coats. So far so good after 4 or 5 coats.  Will add a few more.  

post-3398-0-88006200-1396829537_thumb.jpg

 

Test fit with centerboard.  Good news. It fits!

post-3398-0-09310500-1396829577_thumb.jpg

 

Aft hatch and seat hatch cutouts.  I am sure one of the fundamental rules of boat building states to never use your boat as a saw horse.

post-3398-0-97475200-1396829625_thumb.jpg

 

For the aft hatch, I printed out a full size template and glued it to the bulkhead and 3/8 ply for the backing frame.  This saved a lot of time, I think, and is a technique I used for the rudder. 

post-3398-0-55564800-1396830386_thumb.jpg

 

CB case cap. 

post-3398-0-38560800-1396830104_thumb.jpg

post-3398-0-35436100-1396829711_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tiller varnish in progress with Le Tonkinois No. 1.  Product was selected by googling "easy varnish".  Sanding not required between coats. So far so good after 4 or 5 coats.  Will add a few more.  

Epiphanes is good for hot coating as well.  Keep in mind that if you don't sand once in a while between coats it won't level out as well.  And make sure of the window.  To soon after the last coat and your finish will get gummy, and too long and you won't get the chemical bond to the last coat.

 

The boat is looking good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Brief update:

 

Sails and hardware received! Fore deck started. Seat hatches nearly complete.  Mast steps next to be figured out.

 

post-3398-0-16637200-1398821253_thumb.jpg

 

And a question: I don't see a dimension for the angle of the coaming.  Is that just a builder preference kind of thing?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Matt-

If I have this right as far as the angle and your need, maybe I could help in this way: I bought the kit ( I don't believe you did) . I would be happy when next in my " shop" to look at my kit components which establish the angle ( I forget the component name....elbow or some anatomical part I think) and send a picture with measurements or trace them on paper and mail them to you. I am dealing with a wisdom tooth issue but expect to be in the shop tomorrow and or Sat. Just let me know if you want me to do this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow Lennie, thanks for the offer! The piece that would be the most helpful and the one I think you are describing is called the gusset in the plans. There are two types in my plans. A few key dimensions would be sufficient, I think. If you tell me the distance between the 4 points, I can solve for the angles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just pasted a clip of the gusset detail into AutoCAD to get a rough idea of the angle and I get 6 to 7 degrees from vertical so I assume you mean 15 degrees cumulative from side to side of both coamings.  Is this correct?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Matt-

I made a mistake....not the first time and won't be the last :)

I thought four parts I have were probably for the coaming but it turns out they are "deck knees" or something like that which look like deck support braces. Sorry.

I am interested in your photos of coaming as that stage is a mystery to me ( as are most)

Len

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Matt-

I can't seem to find the detail of the gusset in the plans. I know you didn't know the precise angle but I also am curious about the shape, the placement etc of those parts and in general the structure that the coaming gets attached to. It kind of seems like the CB Trunk where it remains confusing until you get underway but would just like to read up on it now I don't see a reference to any of that stuff nor the placement of the deck knees. Can you tell me which page on plans or if there is a thread that you find useful?

Thanks.

I am in process of sanding, preparing hull for glass and paint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.