PAR Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Traditional alkyd varnishes don't have the UV resistance of the polyurethanes, nor the hardness or durability either. Additionally, the urethanes can be more glossy too, if this is important. This said, the urethanes are much harder to repair and refinish if you let them get away from you, so pick your poison carefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Anyone here try Le Tonkinois? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Sail track:  My original plan was to drill and tap 6-32 for every available hole in the track and fasten with SS pan head screws with a dab of tefgel. As I was doing this, it occurred to me that since the upper sections are only .065" thick, I will only get two threads in the soft aluminum which I find concerning. Anybody use only screws in their track without issue?  So now I am thinking about using SS rivets in the upper thin sections except for about 12" above the joints to allow some adjustment for the diameter change. Last night I tried a 5/32 dia. rivet and a 1/8" dia rivet. The hole size will accommodate either size but only the head of the 1/8" dia. will lie flat in the channel of the track. What is the best size for this track? Is 1/8" sufficient? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Rivets or "nutserts" are the way to go. A nutsert is a rivet, with a nut in it and good if you want to remove things frequently. A sail track will rarely need this feature, but some like the idea. Screws are what you use, just before you learn it needs a through bolt, rivet or nutsert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 anyone have a link to ss nutserts? Â Like this better than fishing nuts up and down the tubes. Â However, I am only pulling up zinc or plated nutserts in my internet search. Â Saltwater would cause an issue here. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Hansonrivet.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted April 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 Overdue for an update:  Tiller varnish in progress with Le Tonkinois No. 1.  Product was selected by googling "easy varnish".  Sanding not required between coats. So far so good after 4 or 5 coats.  Will add a few more.   Test fit with centerboard.  Good news. It fits!  Aft hatch and seat hatch cutouts.  I am sure one of the fundamental rules of boat building states to never use your boat as a saw horse.  For the aft hatch, I printed out a full size template and glued it to the bulkhead and 3/8 ply for the backing frame.  This saved a lot of time, I think, and is a technique I used for the rudder.  CB case cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 Tiller varnish in progress with Le Tonkinois No. 1.  Product was selected by googling "easy varnish".  Sanding not required between coats. So far so good after 4 or 5 coats.  Will add a few more.  Epiphanes is good for hot coating as well. Keep in mind that if you don't sand once in a while between coats it won't level out as well. And make sure of the window. To soon after the last coat and your finish will get gummy, and too long and you won't get the chemical bond to the last coat.  The boat is looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Brief update: Â Sails and hardware received! Fore deck started. Seat hatches nearly complete. Â Mast steps next to be figured out. Â Â And a question: I don't see a dimension for the angle of the coaming. Â Is that just a builder preference kind of thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Dufour Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 I believe it is. For my coaming, I rigged up temporary back rests with clamps and stuff, sat in the boat with a beer for an hour, and kept adjusting the angle until it felt right. Mine does transition to vertical at the forward end as it runs athwartships. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Interesting. Has it worked out well for sailing conditions with heel? Maybe I could induce some heel on my boat stand. Or more likely, I will just blow up the drawing and copy the angle with a bevel gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Matt- If I have this right as far as the angle and your need, maybe I could help in this way: I bought the kit ( I don't believe you did) . I would be happy when next in my " shop" to look at my kit components which establish the angle ( I forget the component name....elbow or some anatomical part I think) and send a picture with measurements or trace them on paper and mail them to you. I am dealing with a wisdom tooth issue but expect to be in the shop tomorrow and or Sat. Just let me know if you want me to do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Wow Lennie, thanks for the offer! The piece that would be the most helpful and the one I think you are describing is called the gusset in the plans. There are two types in my plans. A few key dimensions would be sufficient, I think. If you tell me the distance between the 4 points, I can solve for the angles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Will do and I have a digital bevel gauge for the angles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 The coaming angle is 15 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted May 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Thanks, Graham. Does that mean that the seat back leans 15 degrees back from vertical? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted May 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 I just pasted a clip of the gusset detail into AutoCAD to get a rough idea of the angle and I get 6 to 7 degrees from vertical so I assume you mean 15 degrees cumulative from side to side of both coamings. Is this correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Matt- I made a mistake....not the first time and won't be the last I thought four parts I have were probably for the coaming but it turns out they are "deck knees" or something like that which look like deck support braces. Sorry. I am interested in your photos of coaming as that stage is a mystery to me ( as are most) Len Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 Â I gave 15 degrees from memory but I just checked the drawing and got 12 degrees outward slope for the mid knee with about 7 degrees forward. which gybes with your measurement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Matt- I can't seem to find the detail of the gusset in the plans. I know you didn't know the precise angle but I also am curious about the shape, the placement etc of those parts and in general the structure that the coaming gets attached to. It kind of seems like the CB Trunk where it remains confusing until you get underway but would just like to read up on it now I don't see a reference to any of that stuff nor the placement of the deck knees. Can you tell me which page on plans or if there is a thread that you find useful? Thanks. I am in process of sanding, preparing hull for glass and paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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