CS17 #370 Peggy-O

[LennieG]

Thanks all for the help. I was a little uncomfortable with an old Stanley #4 from Craig's list sight unseen but maybe that is the way to go vs a new Stanley # 4 from Home Depot . It seems parts are available or you buy two to get one complete one.

[LennieG]

Wow, that was quick. I went on eBay, registered, bid on two Stanley #4,s and won the first one for 29.00. Not sure if I am want to win the other one now at $14 or not Seems like a no lose situation, particularly since parts seem to available from Liberty and others. Now I am learning:

Boat building

Blog building

Sailing

eBay bidding and

Tool restoration

Friends ask : will you be bored in retirement?

[LennieG]

Great day today. Been stuck for awhile.....tired of fillets, scared of next steps with CB. Anyway, after much good advice on center board advancement ( getting the blank down to approx 1 1/8" , flat and true) after gluing up the blank, decided to go with the router jig method. Built a nice jig for $30 and five hours work....see below....and have been wrestling with the fact that it rocks a bit when on the flat surface of the MDF box .......push one corner, the other goes up 1/4" inch. Been operating on the theory that the hovering of the router over the jig should true up the top nice and flat regardless of the bottom, particularly if it is secured down with screws. Was ready to dig in, stop fretting and take the dive, and had the thought that the millwork place I bought the dimensional lumber from would have the right equipment for the job. Bingo. One phone call and a 15 minute drive. They put it thru a dual belt sander machine (80 and 120 grit) which was awesome. 24" wide, 8 foot tall and five passes later had a smooth 1 1/8" blank.

It does still rock a bit....push down on one corner, the opposite corner goes up 1/8" but with hand pressure on both corners both will stay down. Any thoughts....should I try something like wetting whole blank and clamping down all corners to try to flatten, or just not worry about and proceed and hope for the best? I am inclined to do latter.

[LennieG]

Also reinforced bow section and fore section of cockpit with 12oz biaxial glass , filleted fore side of aft bulkhead, and started a sharpening station for my bench to be able to have all the stuff right there when I need to sharpen chisels or planes etc so I will actually do it.

[mattp]

I've been pondering the bow reinforcement options. I am curious: How many squirts of the "liquid gold" did it take to wet out the that biaxial fabric (assuming you are using the pumps)? I think that method would make for a nicer finished job. Also I wonder if sufficient strength could be achieved with 2 overlapping layers of regular 10oz cloth set at 45 degrees?

[Dnjost]

With the bow stringer in, the forefoot appears to be sufficiently supported to prevent oil canning and adds much rigidity to the area.  If the issue is a concern over puncturing, then perhaps ensuring there is sufficient foam flotation forward and aft, in addition to the side tanks may the the better option, as even an entire layer of glass outside would not prevent a puncture if going fast enough.  

 

I only plan on a short layer of glass on the bottom where I think there will be several encounters with rocky beaches in the not too distant future.

[LennieG]

Matt-

I cannot speak for the "engineering" type difference between the two although I'll say Graham does support either method. I will say it came out very good. The photo you see was not the final cut before I glued it in. I did not go with the 12oz biaxial for technical reasons but simply because I had never used or seen 12oz biax and wanted to experience using something new. I called US Composites,where I ordered the product from and asked some questions like which side goes down (A- the swirly side goes down, woven side up) and in that conversation I was told I should plan on 1 qt of epoxy per yard of glass, and that is about what it came out to (I use MAS slow). For that qty I take out the pump and pour the resin and hardener. I am pleased with result but will note it cost me some bucks when you consider the amount for the epoxy, glass, shipping etc. vs a couple sticks. us composites could answer your question about two layers of 10 oz. Ph. 561-588-1001

[Alan Stewart]

Thought I would add another link about shaping foils. Over on the Outrigger sailing Canoes site they are mostly into leeboards with constant foils but the idea is still there. 

http://outriggersailingcanoes.blogspot.com/2013/07/perfect-foils.html

 

Also, I definitely wouldn't worry about 1/8" of rock or twist or whatever it is. That will easily be lost in the shaping process. I would lay it on a flat surface and use a gauge block to draw a centerline all the way around the edge after you cut the blank to the finished profile shape. That will give you a "flat plane" reference line to shape to. Once you start planing, grinding, or belt sanding it will be a good double check that its even both sides. 

[Phil Garland]

Re; stiffening the 1/4"bow panels.  On CS17 #351 we used a biax carbon material (left over from a mold project) instead of the stringers which I thought was cleaner and stiffer.  Using two layers of 10 oz glass diagonally should be fine and will probably use less epoxy to wet out.  Are you guys using peel ply over the glass?  If not you should consider it as it really smooths the laminate and eliminates lots of extra sanding.  

[Dnjost]

Having been to Phil's business site Hall Spars in Bristol RI where they specialize in working with these materials.  I should take his advise.  He knows way more than I about biaxial cloth, and laminates than I.  FWIW.

[LennieG]

Phil-

Thanks for weighing in. I am not using peel ply but do have some as I bOught it as part of my original supply purchase. I think of it as a cosmetic tool where it helps minimizing future sanding. So, I don't see it applying forward of the fore bulkhead which will be under deck and never hopefully seen again. I guess the fore part of the cockpit it could have come in handy...missed that,application...darn.

Will keep my eyes open for future use

[LennieG]

Finished the major fillets today. Wphew, I'm glad that dog is down! The way I figure it there are 12 "sections" ....each 12-14 foot run like side seat joints, chine joints, each side of each bulkhead, transom and stern, now etc. glad to have that piece behind me. They have to take two to three hours each including clean up and prep and no way to increase speed.

Done.

Moving on to center board again, CB trunk, sealing seat tank and installing seat tops.....should be fun.

[mattp]

That is one step where having two sets of hands can relieve a lot of the pain. Looking good. It's cool to have another boat to watch that is just ahead.

[Dale Niemann]

Lennie,

I agree with Allan that 1/8 th inch will not make much difference.

 

However, did you try it on several flat surfaces or just your MDF box.  I would try it on your granite counter tops in the kitchen.  This will also be a true test of your wife's committment to the boat construction project.

 

dale

[LennieG]

Honey, I made a new cutting board for you .

Dale-

Thanks for thoughts.

Will get a chance to dig into it now. I haven't actually bothered to do basic checking into the detail of high spots/ low spots. Will take a metal straight edge Monday and see exactly where the problem, if there is one, lies ....maybe it is a quick fix and not a big deal like you say. It is a little proud of 1 1/8 inch so maybe some selective sanding solves "the rock" or maybe it is within the area that will be removed anyway for the foils. A little haunted by thought that a well built house starts with a level foundation but realize this is small potatoes and will be ok.

Is your Marisa floating yet?

[PAR]

Use some chalk, like that to refill a chalk line thingie and find out where the warp or hump is. If it's in the middle, you might want to take different steps then if it's along one of the edges, which will likely get whacked off in the shaping process.

[LennieG]

PAR-

Let me make sure I am clear.....you're saying to snap a chalk line across edge, or some other use of the chalk itself?

Thanks

[LennieG]

Never mind-think I've got it.

Thanks

[PAR]

The idea with the chalk is to butter up the back of the board, then place it on a known flat surface and see where the marks are, once you lift it off. Any place there isn't a mark is high (curled away from the flat surface).

[LennieG]

Thanks- will work it all out