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russell

OB 24 #2

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Russell- THANKS for posting pics of your build!  It looks great and it is really helpful for me to see how you have done things.  Keep up the good work and inspiration for me to get to the next step.

I believe the 16mb is a limit of the size of any one set of pics per post.  I don't think any of my days would be complete without spending at least an hour messing around with computer stuff that doesn't work.  Now, up to my shop with some good carrots to keep me moving.

Cheers,

Ken

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Thanks for posting photos.  Your build is coming along nicely.

 

There may be a pixel width and height restriction as well.  When I rotate a photo 90°, I sometimes run up against this on other sites.

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This boat brings back fond childhood memories for me.  My dad had a 28' Wheeler, built in 1932.  We had such fun on that boat.  I hope you get many years of enjoyment out of it.

IMG_8438.JPG

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Happy New Year everyone! I need your advice, I want to build a split windscreen one that opens on the top side for ventilation, I've seen some on some lobster picnic boats but not in person, I intend to use plexiglass 1/4" . Do any of you have a plan to build it? Thanks Russell

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Here's a plan on a similar boat, unfortunately shy of much detail. Spec is 1/4" plexiglass with 1/4" round head brass machine screw fasteners. Plexiglass is set to the outside in sealant. I suppose one could route in the lower panel and set it in UV grade sealant, doing away with the fasteners.

Split windshield.png

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Yeah, you have the right idea, set the "glazing" in a rabbet and make this deep enough to accept both the glazing and a little piece of 1/4 round to hide the sealant too. If you use PVC or plastic 1/4 round, you can use a heat gun and easily bend it around just about any corner shape. Additionally, use a piano hinge and place the fasteners along the upper edge of the frame and the bottom edge of the windshield, so only the bar portion of the hinge is visible. Lexan is the usual glazing choice and a little more costly than plexi. I prefer to use real glass (laminated), but it's usually a weight thing on small boats, so . . .

 

Don't screw the glazing to the frame, use just sealant. If you do screw the glazing in, make the holes in the glazing huge and employ button head fasteners over rubber washers. The typical arrangement is the hole in the glazing is just a bit smaller than the relaxed diameter of the rubber waster. Over the rubber waster is a regular stainless one, of the same or every so slightly smaller diameter. When you tighten down the button or pan head fastener, watch the rubber and as soon as you see some ooze out, stop. Do not over tighten, just make slightly firm contact. If you don't do this the glazing will expand and crack against and around the fasteners.

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Thanks for the info, where can I get the button head fasteners and rubber washers, I don't know what a button head screw looks like. 

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A button head looks like flattened pan head. It has a a wider head, with a lower profile. Sometimes it's called a truss head.

 

grabber-wood-screws-23355-64_1000.jpg

A truss head.

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A button head.

crown-bolt-wood-screws-40011-64_400_comp

A pan head.

 

The big box stores will have rubber washers and various grades of screws, though at the retail level I've found Ace Hardware has a bigger selection of stainless screws. If you need quite a few, wholesale online is more cost effective.

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