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russell

OB 24 #2

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Action Tiger    139

Oh, heart I got, it's courage and them head stuffings I'm asking after. :)

Seriously, though, for a dry launched boat, not many tougher paints, for the price, than those meant to be trod upon by grandma's walker. And, it's poly paint, too, so there's that.

Plus, I am a sucker for light colored, non-white boats.

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russell    18

post-1248-0-60296500-1472904060_thumb.jpgpost-1248-0-89520700-1472904114_thumb.jpgpost-1248-0-85451900-1472904245_thumb.jpgpost-1248-0-27131100-1472904331_thumb.jpgThought I'd update a bit, notice I have deviated form the original plan, didn't like the closed in pilot house, decided to make a picnic boat style looks much like the OB20 but at 24'

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russell    18

I am not sure at this point, I made some mistakes along the way and the bow area didn't fit as well as it should be. I think I will make a cap rail to cover the edge and double as a toe rail. Someone told me along the way "it's not whether you make mistakes---" it's how well you cover them up what counts" I'm an expert in the cover up part!

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Chick Ludwig    110

 "it's not whether you make mistakes---" it's how well you cover them up what counts"

 

I've repeated that on the forum somewhere. It's a loose quote of what Graham told me once. I'm a pretty good coverer-upper myself.

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Sorry if you took my question the wrong way, I suffer from foot-in-mouth sometimes....what I was trying to describe, was the top edge of the ply around the inside of the gunnel (is it the inwale?) and where it tapers down to the stern. :wacko:

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russell    18

It's like in a country song," I've never been this far before" every day I work on this project is new ground for me. I spend more time in my "moaning chair" than actual work on the boat. 

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Action Tiger    139

Russell,

I prefer to call it a Perspective Chair. Stay positive! :)

Pretty soon you can write your own country song, called I Built a Sweet Looking Boat, Baby. I think good songs always have Baby in the title, right? :)

Either way, keep it up. You are getting so very close...

Peace,

Robert

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russell    18

In an answer to the question regarding the ply at the rear gunnel, I read somewhere that might be called a "wash board" and if there is a board on the inside at the floor it might be called a "mop board", I am unsure how to cover the top of the ply, one way would be to round it over and apply several coats of epoxy to seal the edges and another way would be to overlay a cap on the edge. I would like to know how to make the cap flexible enough to make the bends necessary for the sharp curves? I like that look but don't know the how to. Welcome any suggestions form you all,

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Action Tiger    139

Well, I'm a little gun shy, now, but...

Russell, can you post a pic of the area you're trying to cover/fix. I'm having trouble visualizing the aft ply you are trying to cover, but I'd like to be able to try to offer some advice, or my idea, or ideas.

Anyway, you're boat is looking fantastic, so I'm sure you'll figure out a good way, too.:)

Peace,

Robert

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Action Tiger    139

I think we're on the same page, now. Give me a bit to sketch up an idea or two and I'll put them up here.

I'm thinking you want to cover the coaming top with a cap of some sort to protect the ply edge.

Peace,

Robert

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Action Tiger    139

Russell,

I think you mean to cap the coaming. These are some rough sketches.

The caps I've used have all been solid wood, and simple caps, like the one on the top left, but a rebated cap would also work well and look snazzy. A false rebate, of sorts, can be made by using a top cap, and a separate piece of wood on the side.

For the shapely ends, you can either laminate thinnish strips of solid wood to the shape, then scarf them into the solid caps, or you could cut a solid piece to the curvy shape, and use one solid piece of wood. These solid wood end pieces would also be scarfed into the other cap piece(s).

Anywho, that's what I would do for that problem. I hope I was helpful.

Peace,

Robert

post-4050-0-32908500-1473349921_thumb.jpeg

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PAR    188

I've done dozens of end caps like that and I've found only the tightest curves need that many laminations. For a boat of your size a couple of layers is all you'll need. Use a heat gun to dry fit the pieces and tack them down for a day or two so they'll "take a set" and remember their position. They'll spring back a little, but not so much to make gluing them in place very difficult. Lastly on the top of the curve, I usually let the upper cap piece cover the bent stuff. I usually take a belt sander and just whack off the tops of the laminate, until it's flush with the bottom of where the cap piece will live. My thought is it prevents moisture, from getting into the joint from above.

post-304-0-02258000-1473369179_thumb.jpg

Essentially, the cap is laminated in place and fine tuned after the goo cures.

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