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russell

OB 24 #2

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Happy Thanksgiving to all! Thought I'd give an update. Getting close to the big flip! I am in process of resanding as my fairing is not so pretty, won't be perfect but will look good at 10 feet! I'm planning to build two gantry cranes with two chain falls and pullys to flip her. The biggest problem is the cross beams will have to be at least 14 feet up to clear the floor. Maybe right side up by Christmas.

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Hi Russell,  I wanted to offer my help when you go to flip your OB.  I recently flipped my Marissa alone but it was quite easy due to its light weight plus the fact that I don't know enough to be afraid.  I have an extra 2 ton chain fall, a couple of come-alongs and an engine hoist which worked very well as a pivot point at the bow.

 

My ulterior motive is that I would like to see the hull in person to see if it's something I think I could handle building in the space that I have available.  I'm off work as of 12/18 and will be available until 1/4 and I live near Greenville -  SC; about 2 hours from you.

 

My Marissa isn't even close to getting wet but my eyes are wandering already.  Graham designs some gorgeous boats, that's for sure.

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I have stalled a bit getting ready for Christmas. I bought 2 1 ton chain falls and plan to build the gantry cranes over the next few weeks, then flip her. (with help from some friends). You are welcome to come down and see and or help when I get ready, it's a scary thing to do and it only takes a few minutes when everything is ready. I'll let you know when the cranes are built.

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Mike, I think the "Big Flip" is tomarrow maybe about noon if all goes right. You are welcome to come down if you wish. Call me for directions if your coming.  678 495 7512.

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Finally!! She's upright! With the great help of three good friends, we constructed the gantry cranes and flipped her in lees than 3 hours. Happened so fast I didn't have time to get scared.

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Great work Russell!  The OB 24 will be my next project after my Marissa is finished and I get the fever.  I really like the lines of the OB and the 24 in particular.  The combination of a more plumb bow and the flare really work well and give her classic lines.

 

While I'm writing (and you're reading) I wondered what you used to seal the chase pipe to the aft locker sole of your Marrissa.  I've experimented with thickened epoxy & 3M 52000 after roughing up the PVC with 80-grit.  Neither of these methods worked very well although the 5200 seemed better than the epoxy.  Lotus said he used something from Sikkens but couldn't recall what product it actually was.

 

Below are the pictures of the penetration I'm talking about plus the method by which I located the exact spot for the hole.

 

Thanks,

Mike

 

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Mike, used thickened epoxy, the pipe extended above the the deck and I put a filet of thickened epoxy. Worked well.  I also drilled a small hole in the low point of the pipe to let water drain when you are washing the boat and the water sometomes runs over the top into the chase pipe.

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I think the product you're referring to is Sikaflex 291    http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3512  which is like 5200. It is great for bedding and bonding, but not for an application like this. Russel is correct about the epoxy thickened with cabosil. Don't use Q-cell as it is intended for sanding and is not structural. Use a large fillet. You should support the chase pipe under the floor also to be sure it has a solid mount.

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When you consider adhesive sealants consider them as such:

 

3M 5200 (polyurethane) is like epoxy.  Removing an item attached with this stuff will often cause damage, especially to wood.  (700 psi tensile strength)

Sikaflex 291 (polyurethane) is quite adhesive, but removal with care goes well  (300 psi tensile strength)

Boatlife Lifecaulk (poly-sulfide) is mildly adhesive and easily removable (100 psi tensile strength)

 

I endorse all 3 products when used according to their characteristics.

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From memory the Gougeon brothers of WEST fame have recommended flaming the surface of pvc as well as sanding prior to epoxying. It only needs a few seconds (not burning). I have done it in the past and it seems to remove the waxy feel from the plastic. So far none of the epoxy/pvc bonding I've done has failed- about 15 years so far.

FWIW

Cheers

Peter HK

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