woodman Posted August 2, 2013 Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 A new build... The way I have planed to seal around the fabric after I slit it for the sketch is to epoxy under the fabric around the opening....Any other ideas? This skeg design is right out of the kayak shop book...I am running the pull cord under the deck..the bungee will still be on top of the deck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JReed Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 I assume you will epoxy the in side since it is basically a centerboard trunk? Have you thought about a silicone base sealant for the skin interface? would move a bit with the skin as the boat flexes. Imagine the epoxy when it hardens would create a stress point on the fabric that could wear faster then the rest of the boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 I have a great design for a skeg but no good design for attaching the skin. Epoxy is probably the best idea but it still concerns me a little. I have thought about making a thin plywood 'plate' and screwing it in place. But that leaves an edge to catch and get damaged even with a 1/8 plywood. What really concerns me about your design, is the reason I have never built one. With the two blocks on the side you now have a sharp corner. Even if you round them off you still have a wear spot. Every time you hit something that lifts the skin it will rub on those edges. Eventually it will wear a hole on that spot. I will suggest rounded off or even tapering the leading edges to minimize the chance of damage. How long it will take depends on you and where you paddle. It's probably not going to be quick and might never wear through. But ever boat I have damaged has been where the skin hit something and lifted enough to hit the frame. It then created a hole along the edge. I do have an idea on how to get around this but it requires a big change in the design of the boat you put it on. Anxious to see how your does and not trying to discourage you at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DURRETTD Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Many years ago I thought I needed a rudder for turning, then I learned to lean and adjust my paddling angle/force. Eventually I realized a rudder is most useful to maintain a straight course, but is subject to over-correction/under-correction and general human imprecision. A few years ago I modified my rudder so that it's controlled by lines led from an extended arm across the rudder head to jam cleats on each side of the deck forward of the cockpit. The rudder became an adjustable skeg. It wouldn't necessarily be easy to attach a rudder to a SOF, but it should be easier than building a durable, water-tight skeg box. Has anyone tried attaching a rudder to a SOF? How'd you do it? Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodman Posted August 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 The keel was beveled with enough relief to clear the fabric... I coated this area with epoxy prior to skinning.... Saturated the area with epoxy prior to the stain and urethane...It held up the first time in the water.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldpropfan Posted August 13, 2013 Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 Some info on detachable skegs starting on page 149 of Cunningham's 'Building the Greenland Kayak'. Will have to give one a try when I get time to actually finish my kayaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodman Posted August 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 Has anyone tried attaching a rudder to a SOF? How'd you do it? Any suggestions? I built up a plywood V block that would bolt on using the holes the grab handle (painter) usually is attached to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted August 13, 2013 Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 I have thought about this a little and I think gluing it with epoxy is probably the best idea. I have tossed around a lot of ideas and I can not come up with anything I like better. My only concern about this and this is because I have 'holed' two boats because of this, is the two strips you added along the keel. If you hit something that lifts the skin up it can catch on the corners they create and tear the skin. That takes a pretty hard impact thought and it is more like that repeated contact would eventually wear a hole in the skin. Of course that also depends on where you paddle and might never be an issue too. One of these days I am going to build one using a new idea I have get around that. Either way I like the concept and I especially like that you have an open toped box, that will make fixing a jammed or broken rudder much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JReed Posted August 13, 2013 Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 Thta is a pretty slick rudder set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodman Posted October 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 This skeg is awesome going diagonally into the wind for a long distance you are locked in straight as an arrow....and it still doesn't leak around the box paddled it a lot this summer..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JReed Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 How far does it draft bellow the keel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodman Posted October 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2013 How far does it draft bellow the keel? 3 1/2'' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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