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Interthane 990 on top of System Three


mjshp

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Seeking the experience of those who have gone before. 

 

Anyone have experience with putting Interthane 990 over System Three?

If so, did you prime the System Three?

With what?

 

Or did you put the 990 right on top of the System Three?

 

Thanks for your experience.

 

 

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This is one of the newer acrylic LPU's on the market. It can go over epoxy directly, though the manufacture only suggests going over it's primers or a tie coat (naturally). It will work well over the System Three primer. Over regular or Silver Tip epoxy, provide a good tooth and make sure the epoxy is well cured (at least a week), so shrinkage doesn't cause issues. This particular paint has very good gloss retention, but isn't as tough as the more traditional solvent based LPU's. The advantage of a primer is you can smooth the surface and provide a good tie coat for the finish coats. If straight over epoxy, you have to smooth the epoxy and provide sufficent tooth, which is tough to do on a clear epoxy coating.

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Thanks for the, as usual, great tips. The folks at international paint don't really have an answer to the question of, what to use as a tie coat/primer.  Suggestions?  I have ready access to 300v and most of the International Paint line.

 

Thanks.

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 Any quality, epoxy primer will do really.

 The punctuation in this sentence is deceiving.  I don't think PAR means any quality of epoxy primer.  I bet he means any quality epoxy primer, as in brand is not important, but quality is.

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In talking with the epoxy guru at the local chandelry today he showed me a piece of marine ply that had been coated with  System Three then with both the 990 and the 300v--obviously the 990 LOVES the 330v--but both are  VERY well bonded to the Systems Three Epoxy.  As a separate factoid, the Systems Three was 2 days old, held at normal Alaska shop temps.

 

Take it for what it's worth, but interesting data points of a real world test.

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How did he show the primer and top coat was well bonded? Did he use the scratch and tape yank test?  For what it's worth, I've never met any "epoxy gurus", at any boat parts store, unless it was a customer who was a known quantity. Even these generally don't "know" epoxy, though may have good skills and advise, based in their experience. It would be interesting to see the sample after the epoxy had a full two weeks of cure or even a bit of post cure, as if it had been in the sun for a while. This is often the real test of over coats, as the base coating shrinks up and the top coat must cope with the movement. 990 is fairly good in this regard, among the LPU's, but I don't know enough about 330 to say.

 

Punctuation has been changed.

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