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Shad kayak being built in Twin Cities, MN


bhart

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OK, a thousand apologies for doubting you! Several Shads have been built so I was sure the plans were right.  You were the first one to mention this! Your statement that the keel had to bend down really kept bugging me. I went back and studied your photos and reread what you had written and it clicked with me.

 

I put a straight-edge on it between the 11'7" and 15'7" brackets.  Note, per the full-size plans, both of these brackets are the identical height and interchangeable.

 

Those two are not the same height, 6' 0" and 11' 7" are the same height.

 

OK, here is the fix and it shouldn't be too hard.  You need to remove the bracket at 11' 7" and cut the slot so that it is the same depth as the bracket at 6' 0". That should be 4.28" or just say 4 1/4" from the bottom. Slip it back an place and the keel should look a lot better. There may still be some gap but it should be much smaller.

 

Again, my apologies! Not trying to make excuses but almost always the problem is the builder and not with the plans. When a boat has been built a few times without any one mentioning a problem I assume they are right. 

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I corrected the height of the bracket at the 11''7' location, and I like the results.  It only takes slight clamp pressure to make the keel and bow notch mate properly.  The keel now has a gradual upward sweep toward the bow.  Thanks for the help.  I'm back on track.

 

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I haven't had a whole lot of time to get in my shop over the past week.  However, I did managed to make some progress.  They are predicting more cold weather  and even snow this week in MN.  That's not normal for the beginning of May.  It seems spring will never get here this year.  On the bright side, bad weather makes it easier to stay inside and work on my Shad.

 

In the final stages of fitting the bow:

 

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Beginning fitting of the stern:

 

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Picture of the front half after lashing:

 

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Side shot after lashing.  The kayak has a nice sweeping profile:

 

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I had to order some more sinew. I must be using too much sinew for each joint, because 1 roll is supposed to be more than enough to complete a kayak.  I guess I'm not alone, according to the Kudzu ordering page, it's a common mistake of newbie builders.

 

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...because 1 roll is supposed to be more than enough to complete a kayak.  I guess I'm not alone,....

 

Far from alone.

 

I can build two boats or very close from one roll. So it is obvious that I trust the sinew more than everyone else.  ;-)  About 8-9 turns around the joint is all I use. I suspect most use A LOT more than that. Probably just doesn't look strong enough to most of you.

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Thanks for the encouragement. 

 

Sewing still seems like a long way away at this point ... still have to complete the lashing, install the floor, seal the frame, laminate the coaming, and apply a finish to the coaming.  I'm also planning on building my own greenland paddle and probably float bags too. I'm just going to have to be patient.  It will all come together when it's time.  I anticipate progress will slow as soon as the warm weather arrives in a week or so.  There's landscaping, camping, and mountain biking to be done.

 

It's a fun project.  I am enjoying the building process, but also anxious to hit the water.

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 ... still have to laminate the coaming................

This seems to be the biggest set back in the process for most people.  No one seems to ask before they start:  What should I do first?  If they did, I would suggest building the coaming first.  You can always varnish or paint it by adding coats between session of lashing.  But you can't sew the skin, at least not finish sewing the skin until it is completely done.

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...because 1 roll is supposed to be more than enough to complete a kayak.  I guess I'm not alone,....

 

Far from alone.

 

I can build two boats or very close from one roll. So it is obvious that I trust the sinew more than everyone else.  ;-)  About 8-9 turns around the joint is all I use. I suspect most use A LOT more than that. Probably just doesn't look strong enough to most of you.

 

I don't think I went more than 6 turns.  More seemed overkill when reinforced by the skin.  Maybe I went too light.  Time will tell.

 

Joe

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 ... still have to laminate the coaming................

This seems to be the biggest set back in the process for most people.  No one seems to ask before they start:  What should I do first?  If they did, I would suggest building the coaming first.  You can always varnish or paint it by adding coats between session of lashing.  But you can't sew the skin, at least not finish sewing the skin until it is completely done.

 

 

 

This is very true.  Maybe Jeff should add that to the FAQ thread he started.  Ha, I've got mine done for the next kayak that I'm not sure I will ever build. 

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Everybody,I'm building a Shad in Pittsburgh (third boat, but my first SOF boat). I just discovered the issue with the brackets today, and this forum. When I removed the 11'7" bracket to recut the slot depth, the boat sprung down to the right spot and the keel stringer took on a fair curve. This thread saved me from much frustration, so thanks!I'm just about done lashing the frame together but I still have the coaming to do. While I am no stranger to steam bending and bent lamination, I am contemplating cutting the parts out of plywood. Faster, but the laminated coaming would look better.... Cheers,Garth

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Okay, here's my Shad as it is right now.  I took these shots this afternoon.  The stringers are all cypress and the frames are Baltic Birch plywood. 

 

The green boat hanging from the ceiling in the background of the first shot is my Adirondack Guidboat, which was boat #2 for me.  Each boat I build seems to get smaller and less expensive, since the first boat is an Iain Oughtred designed Ness Yawl (19'2" glued lap plywood sailboat).

 

Cheers,

Garth

 

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