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Joe Feager

Curlew trouble

12 posts in this topic

After getting a good start I was pretty happy.  Then I started inserting frames.  Gunwales and keel stay nice and fair until I insert frame 5'4".  See the pic's.  I have checked frame 5'4 and 4'4 1/2 and they are almost perfect.  I found on my paper where I marked 1 15/16 instead on 1 13/16 on one side only.  I"m thinking I can overcome that without a new frame.  Hopefully you can see how the keel is not fair any longer and in the other pic the gunwale is pushe up off the notch on frame 4'4 1/2 when frame 5'4 is inserted.

 

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Apparently I am consistent. I looked at 7 3/16" when I laid it out but marked 7 13/16". Then I did the same when I checked dimensions twice. One last check and then I saw the error. New frame marked out now. Drat!!

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That is why I decided to offer full sized plans. I made similar mistakes more than I care to admit when I laid them out by hand.

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Pride goeth before my fall.  But, if that is the worst that happens I'll be OK.  All in all it's just a minor setback.  Everything is all set to slip it in and then put on the hull stringers.  I had saved my graph paper sheets so it was easy to make the change and then use it as a template. 

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I understand where Jeff is coming from, but I'm in Joe's camp.  I like to be able to say "I did it" and I just don't feel I can if I use full size plans.  Coarse, there is the arguement that I did'n make up the offset tables, so I didn't really do it..... :rolleyes:

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I built a Curlew and a Freebie 12 from the offsets.  While it was amusing it has little to noting to do with building.  It is the tedious process of plotting a lot of coordinates, connecting the dots and adding some curves.  it is an accomplishment of sorts, but is not really a measure of building skill in my opinion.  I will be buying plans from now on, making patterns and paying royalties for future builds of any given design.

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I have paid my dues on the drawing board(s) over many years. Most likely I have laid out more things than all of you guys put together. So the fascination is long gone. I use my full size patterns for kits I make. I have no desire to go back and loft them!

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Years ago I lofted one Nick Schade's designs using Excel and a cheap CAD program I had. Never built the boat. Don't have CAD now nor a plotter so it had to come from the book or order the plans. Having started out with Log tables and the old Trig tables this wasn't hard. I still remember Mr. Vickers from drafting class. He'd put an eye on my curves and mark up anything straight no matter how short. The plans are the way to go next time, but always remember, you shouldn't use a formula unless you know how it was derived.;). It's been fun so far, back at it again tomorrow. Unless I go for a paddle.

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Just an update.  I didn't paddle, instead worked on the boat.  Trimmed the gunwales to the bow section and my left little finger too.  So I annointed the frame already.  Almost have the stern laced except where it is on the brackets. 

 

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Looks like you didn't trim the aft bracket to allow for getting the chine stringers into the frame notches.  Otherwise the gunwales look like they fair nicely into the stern top.

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Dave,

I wondered about that.  Same with the bow bracket.  But there would have been no meat left to take a screw.  Was barely enough as it was.  I felt like all the notches for the keel could have been an inch deeper to give more meat the fasten the frame.

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The trimming does remove most of the meat at the keel stringer.  I used small C-clamps instead of a screw.  It was still tough getting a good grip and leaving room, but it works.

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