Round over end to end. When you glass the inside, the glass won't lay on a 90 degree corner correctly. With the round over and the fillet the glass will lay right without any air gaps. If you do it right. Also where the stringers are visible the round over is more pleasant to look at and sharp corners are prone to breaking when struck by something. In my Penobscott 14 build, all the stringers are visible. Also they are walked on and bumped and banged. They are round over except where they contact the frames. Here they are left square to bite nicely in a square notch, which also helps keep the twist in the stringer and looks cool to.
fishman38 OK20
#81
Posted 09 May 2013 - 09:32 AM
#82
Posted 09 May 2013 - 09:38 AM
Fishman 38, If you can I would get Greg Rossel"s book BUILDING SMALL BOATS. An excellent read with lots of valuable info. A must have book.
#83
Posted 09 May 2013 - 11:21 AM
However it does seem that this would cause some degree of weakening unless one fills the void created between planks and stringers/chines with fillet (which seems in fact might strengthen the joint not weaken it)
On second reading, this sentence doesn't make any sense in the present context, so am deleting it.
Thanks for the tip Miyot. I'll track down a copy of the book.
#84
Posted 09 May 2013 - 08:20 PM
DSCN0218.JPG 102.31K
26 downloads
DSCN0220.JPG 113.31K
26 downloads Cut off at the knees.
DSCN0221.JPG 92.42K
25 downloads
DSCN0222.JPG 102.16K
26 downloads I was concerned that "several hundred" pounds (per Gougeon) on the baseline would distort the strongback. This is one of a couple of steps to avoid that.
DSCN0226.JPG 122.05K
31 downloads
DSCN0225.JPG 101.42K
32 downloadsFinally, the beginning of a boat.
DSCN0227.JPG 80.57K
24 downloads
#87
Posted 15 May 2013 - 06:21 AM
DSCN0271.JPG 98.77K
8 downloads
When I inserted the keel in the frame notches, I notice I have a bit of a "dogleg" in about the aft 10 feet. I think it must be straightened before gluing it to the frames. Best method I can come up with is to, with it held straight with clamps, glue a strip of (3/8 or 1/4) plywood to the flat top side over the full length of the bend. I could either cut away enough of the keel to make room for the ply or deepen the notches in the frames. Any suggestion are welcome.
#88
Posted 15 May 2013 - 11:59 AM
I think this is one of those cases where only you will know it's there, but knowing it's there will drive you nuts.
Just to offer a different choice, you might fit a 2x6 (temporarily) along the starboard stringer/bulkhead and wedge in lengths of 1x2 from the 2x6 to the keel to push it into place. Then plank the port side first.
#89
Posted 15 May 2013 - 12:54 PM
Thanks Gordy. You're right it is the sort of thing that would drive me nuts just knowing it was there. Since I posted about this, I've done further investigating and find that it isn't going to take as much force to correct the problem as I first thought, so maybe beefing up the frame supports (risers?) a little, plus some bracing such as you describe until the stringers etc and the first of the planking is stuck down is all that is needed.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users













