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Fishman38

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The sharper the corners of the chine and transom are the better it will be. The water particles want to follow curves but the hard corner makes them break away cleaner. The boat will be drier when the water gets turned down by the reverse angle of the chine breaking away cleanly rather the some particles rolling around the chine allowing the wind to pick it up and throw it in your face.

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Graham, that is exactly one of the reasons I decided to build this boat, for a drier ride.  But I was impressed by the high, flared prow.  So if a sharp chine will help me stay dry, sharp it will be!  Many a wet trip have I made in the boat I've had for over thirty years!

 

................and a few I didn't take because of how wet it would be.

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Turns out no one in this town sells drawer knobs that were what I considered large enough to be comfortable.  I found these wooden spheres that seemed a little too large (they're a little larger than a billiard ball............the board is 3" wide) but decided to try them on the long board.  Bought two and sanded about a 1" diameter flat spot on each and attached them with 2 flathead screws and epoxy. 

These suckers work great!  From any position they fit my hands the same so there's no odd torqueing on the wrists and elbows and so far no blisters on the hands.

 

The other pic shows the result of using the light coat of primer to highlight the highs and lows.  I first tried aerosol canned black primer but too slow and (for me) impossible to get a smooth coat.  I switched to my pneumatic sprayer using Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer,  A little pricey at $12/qt   but I figure the quart will be enough for my next 3 boats :)  Actually I bought a used trailer which is in need of a paint job,  Enough rambling.  The method works great.  My only question: how does one decide when it's time to stop sanding and start filling?  Maybe when the second ply starts to show?

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After one more pass with the 80 grit.  Best I can tell these lows range from less than 5 to 16 hundredths of a millimeter.  Not sure that novice that I am at this type of work (I'm not much good at drywall finishing either and have never done a lick of autobody work) that I can improve on this.  And wondering if I should even attempt it now or wait 'til the glass is down. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

sorry for the late response on my thread, been doing yard cleanup for the past couple weeks. looks really good, did you brush or roll on the epoxy? I guess what you have done is cover the boat with resin and let it set up, then you are going to tape and glass? I was just going to go straight to tape and glass, but should there be a layer of just cured resin first? Will you sand this prior to laying glass?

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Hey Phishunt; Yes I'm pretty much following the procedures outlined in the book "The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction" which recommends an initial coat of epoxy before glassing.  They also said "some builders prefer to let the initial coat fully cure, wipe it with a damp cloth and sand lightly before applying the cloth"  which I did except I omitted the "wipe with a damp cloth" part.  I did give it a rather thorough "light" sanding then I wiped it down with denatured alcohol to remove the dust and fingerprint oil.

 

They seemed to be recommending "filling depressions and voids with low density filler" after the initial coat of epoxy.  I deviated from that by (1) buffing the voids such as inadequately filled screw holes and the like (which seems a little anal but I did it anyway)with a Dremel tool sanding burr (which is one of the few uses I've ever found for a Dremel tool) then (2) brushing a coat of unthickened epoxy on the other lows then (3)following immediately (at least while it's still tacky) with thickened epoxy and (4) trowelling it back to slightly above the surrounding surface then after curing (4) sanding it all back to level and then wiping it down and rolling on an initial full coat of epoxy using a foam roller.

 

By the way, the foam roller I used was yellow and came from Ace Hdwe which, being concerned about whether it was suitable for epoxy, I called the West Systems hotline and was assured it would be fine.  I've never used a foam roller for anything before and it did leave a lot of tiny bubbles that I had to "tip" using a foam brush. 

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Fishman Hightech here your boat looks incredible!!!!!! I am sorry I have not looked at your build before this. Keep sanding I long boarded my exterior for 5 days. When I used a laser to put my boot top on I was shocked to find two hollows just before the transom on both port and starboard sides. Filled them 2 more days of sanding good to go. Your boat looks great keep up the good work. You will be in by the end of summer hopefully.

PG

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I e-mailed him, he does not even see that it was ever there or was deleted, I am really gonna be heart broken if its gone, I've got friends that I gave the address out to so they could follow me and it was pretty neat having people view my progress, shoot, I even went back and looked at it from the beginning, kinda like a journal. Hope the IT guy can find it

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Me too.  There's definitely something going on.  The log-in, for one, doesn't work the way it used to.  The first time I logged in and saw your last post it said posted at 2:22PM.  A few minutes later it said posted at 3:22PM.  A similar thing happened with Hightechmarine's post above.  First time I looked at it it said 6:29, next time it said 5:29, now it's back to 6:29.  Another problem I'm having is I can no longer select a segment from someone post on here, your question for instance about whether I used a roller or brush to apply the epoxy, quote it in a new post to make it clear what I'm replying to.  I'm not ruling out problems with  my laptop, but I have two other PC's here that acted the same.

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Thanks for the kind words Hightech.  And thanks for the suggestion.  I had been trying to think of a way to lock the roller.  In the future I'll use the high-tech method.

 

I finished the glassing on Saturday but for a couple of reasons did not get any additional layers of epoxy down.  One reason was both my assistant (my son) and I (especially I) were about out of gas.  There was a time when I could put in 14,15 hour days but those days are long gone.  The other reason was there were some flaws (rough spots) that needed fixing and the only way I could think of to fix them was to let it cure then do a little sanding.  Which I did and it seems to have worked out ok.  My concern now is prepping the cured surface so as to get a good bond to the next (epoxy) coat.  What I did was take a 3M scouring pad (Scotchbright?) like my wife uses in the kitchen, and using my orbital sander with a sheet of 80 grit clamped in the normal way, rest it on the (dry of course) scouring pad and thoroughly go over the whole exterior surface.  I looked at the surface under a magnifier and it seemed to be fairly well scratched except maybe for the deepest part of the fabric grid.  I'm hoping that will work.  I plan to lay two more coats tomorrow, the second while the first is still tacky.

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There is a waxy substance or BLUSH that is part of the resin making process. It needs to be scuffed off.  When you put the glass cloth down peel ply will help hold all the little annoying fibers down and keep everything in place. Use an aluminum slotted roller. Roll the peel ply until the resin is forced through. Only localized sanding will be required before you put on the fairing. Peel ply is a little expensive and you need to cut darts in it to make it behave but it give you a great result

Keep chugging remember it is only a hobby so have fun with it.(That's what I keep telling myself)

PG

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Thanks Hightech.  So far the only evidence I've seen of having a problem with amine blush, although I admit to not knowing exactly what to look far, is stuff building up on sandpaper and clogging it.  I did not realize blush might be causing that until rereading about it in the West users manual  a few minutes ago.  I had assumed it was caused by sanding epoxy that was not fully cured.  From what I had remembered reading, if blush were present I should be able to see it and definitely had not.  Also, when "sanding" with the Scotchbright as I described above, I did not have any clogging as I had with the sandpaper. Something I read somewhere in the last year led me to believe that humidity was a factor in causing the stuff to form and that maybe in the dry climate we have out here, typically very low humidity, the stuff doesn't form.  Although I see now that West says it's a good idea to assume it's there anyway.  Live and learn I guess.  Hopefully I've not caused any serious damage.  The glass definitely appears to be well bonded.

 

Another oversight I just discovered is I am one layer of glass short on the chines, so I'll have to add a strip of tape over what's already there, whereas Graham recommends it go down first, not last. :(

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  • 4 weeks later...

Graham said that after glassing I should rebuild the rounded over chine to a sharp corner to reduce the tendency of the water to follow the surface up the side of the boat.  Made sense to me and here is the result.  Needs a little fine tuning (sanding) obviously.  And I'm not sure how sharp to leave this thing.  Seems like there needs at least bit of radius to facilitate paint adherence?  Graham, if you're reading this should I dull the sharp edge just a tad?

 

  

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Thanks Dale.  I re-read his post at the top of this page where he says "the sharper the better" ( had forgotten he had made his comments here and not in a phone conversation), so I'll go ahead and sand it down to a sharp edge in prep for painting.  Maybe he'll see this before I shoot it and let me know if it's possible to "put too fine of a point on it" as they say.  Pun intended.  :)

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