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Running Rigging


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#21 Hirilonde

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 06:33 AM

On small boats line size is more a matter of comfort than strength.  Thicker line is more comfortable, to a certain extent any way.  I would think 3/8" would be fine, but it is a matter of personal preference.  Do you think going thinner would be comfortable?  Keep in mind that for saving money you already own the 1/2" sheets.   Harken is to marine hardware as Sony is to audio.  It is top shelf, but you pay for it.  For small boats I find Ronstan perfectly acceptable.


Dave Finnegan
http://charlestownboatworks.com

1967 Pearson Renegade  "Hirilondë"

Spindrift 9N #521 -  many KudzuCraft SoF kayaks


#22 sscoville

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 04:14 PM

I like my sheets.  The reason I was going to downsize is much of the hardward I've seen is for <1/2" line which is significantly cheaper than the >1/2" variety.



#23 PAR

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 06:12 AM

I like Ronstan engineering better then Harken, which is often over engineered for the tasks. Ronstan is cheaper too. RaceLite has some good stuff, but you have to like simple and stainless.

I think 3/8" sheets are the smallest diameter you can comfortably live with. Halyards and other control lines can be smaller, as you don't handle them as much.

You can save a considerable amount by making your own stand up, swivel blocks and cam cleat bases. Both Tom and I have posted pictures of this sort of thing previously.



#24 sscoville

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 05:38 AM

Peter HK, do you use stand up blocks in combo with your rotating bullseye/cam cleats?  I bought the cam cleats with bullseyes and was hoping that was all I needed for the mainsheet, except the block on the end of the sprit.  I see Tom uses stand up blocks with his.



#25 Hirilonde

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 07:38 AM

If you didn't use the block at the cleat, how would you keep the angle of the sheet to the cleat consistent for engaging the cleat?   Think of it as a fair lead that rotates to accomodate the incoming angle of the sheet under all points of sail.


Dave Finnegan
http://charlestownboatworks.com

1967 Pearson Renegade  "Hirilondë"

Spindrift 9N #521 -  many KudzuCraft SoF kayaks


#26 sscoville

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 11:48 AM

If you didn't use the block at the cleat, how would you keep the angle of the sheet to the cleat consistent for engaging the cleat?   Think of it as a fair lead that rotates to accomodate the incoming angle of the sheet under all points of sail.

 

 

There is a bullseye fairlead on the cleat.



#27 Peter HK

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 02:10 PM

Peter HK, do you use stand up blocks in combo with your rotating bullseye/cam cleats? I bought the cam cleats with bullseyes and was hoping that was all I needed for the mainsheet, except the block on the end of the sprit. I see Tom uses stand up blocks with his.

I don't use stand up blocks. The main works fine just using the fairleads.

 

Peter HK


"He who would go to sea for pleasure would go
to hell for a pastime."

Lord Chesterfield




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