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  #1 Joe Feager

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Posted 23 January 2013 - 08:15 PM

Jeff makes it look easy in his video.  I have fought in 3 wraps so far with glue running all over the place.  Got some splits trying to bend too.  Trying to heat on a plastic sheet doesn't work either.  If I do this again I'll work something out.  Glad I saw the video about 3/32" and didn't try 3/16" like in the book. 

 

My band saw does ok but not the best so I took my thickness planer down to minimum and barely got the 3/32"  Had to almost burn the wood to get it around the front section.  I'll be using some System 3 Epoxy before I'm done but I don think it is going to hold up.

 



  #2 Hirilonde

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 12:09 PM

What species of wood?


Dave Finnegan

1967 Pearson Renegade  "Hirilondë"

Spindrift 9N #521 -  many KudzuCraft SoF kayaks


  #3 mfrankel

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 08:16 PM

I have learned the hard way that planing on a very thin setting does not work well.  You can make a jig to solve that problem in about 30 seconds.  Just glue some cheap sandpaper on to a piece of plywood.  Use spray adhesive for fast application, fast drying and and even coat.  Then put the wood you want to plane on top of the sandpaper, and run the whole set up through the planer at a thicker setting. 



  #4 Joe Feager

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 07:33 AM

I was using soft maple. It was plenty flimsy but the tight bend took some effort. Wood was not clear but the breaks did not happen at small knots which surprised me. When those didn't lay flat I added a clamp. I don't know about the sandpaper trick on something 9feet long.

  #5 Hirilonde

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 11:34 AM

I never heard of soft Maple.  I use Maple for my coamings and find it quite hard.  I steam bend (hot water actually) the pieces over my form, let them dry and use epoxy.  Jeff seems to have no trouble bending his strips without moisture and uses Titebond III.  I have not found this to work for me.  I also use short strips, about 5 or 6 feet long.  I find that trying to glue a second wrap (3rd layer) at the same time as the first much too tedious and awkward, though maybe that is just me being a clutz.  I used to rip my strips on a table saw until I got my new to me band saw.  The strips were very uniform, but the kerf width was wasteful.  I don't bother planing after ripping with the band saw, though I some times touch up thick spots on my stationary belt sander and cull out any overly thin spots.  There is a knack to ripping on a band saw, I am getting better with practice.  It is definitely helpful to have a good resaw blade.


Dave Finnegan

1967 Pearson Renegade  "Hirilondë"

Spindrift 9N #521 -  many KudzuCraft SoF kayaks


  #6 Kudzu

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 12:50 PM

Interesting, I use soft maple and I have better luck with that than anything.... well, I take that back. I used Basswood on one and it was was scary easy to bend. Even thicker pieces. We will see how well it holds up. It's not a marine grade wood but it sure is easy to bend.

 

Dave, I don't remember the details but the Maple that grows in the more Southern areas is called soft maple. It is not the same as what grows in the north. Seems like yours are referred to as sugar maples? We can't make syrup from our maples, different species of Maple. Anyway, as I understand the wood looks the same (or close) but soft maple is not nearly as tough as the Northern maples. Doesn't make tough bench tops or mallets like the hard maple.


Jeff
Kudzu Craft SOF kayaks
www.kudzucraft.com

  #7 Joe Feager

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 02:15 PM

Jeff,

I wouldn't worry about the basswood.  I was told once that is the wood used in the shafts on Bending Branches paddles.  They use many laminations though.  I can get that here in about a tree size piece.  My maple was 8/4.  That made it harder to rip on my 10" but I have plenty to work with in final sizing. 

 

Dave,

I did have some hard maple in a 4' section that I interspersed.  Now I don't remember if I used it on the sharp curve or not.  I like the idea of soaking and prebending to dry.  Save on glue.  I have 1 more wrap to go. 

 

I don't mind Titebond III.  Use it on my laminated paddles and they see more immersion time than the coaming will.  Nothing against epoxy just more time consuming to work with.



  #8 Pat Mellema

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 11:27 AM

Jeff

How thick should the coming be . I was planing for between 1/2" and 3/4" but am not sure.


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  #9 Hirilonde

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 12:44 PM

I use 4 layers of 1 ½"  strips which totals approximately ½" thick total.  I then sand the outside of the ring and glue on 3 layers of ½" pieces which gives me a lip about 3/8" thick.  This is plenty strong for the "hard" Maple I use.


Dave Finnegan

1967 Pearson Renegade  "Hirilondë"

Spindrift 9N #521 -  many KudzuCraft SoF kayaks


  #10 Kudzu

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 01:18 PM

Jeff

How thick should the coming be . I was planing for between 1/2" and 3/4" but am not sure.

 

Somewhere around that depending on the wood is fine.


Jeff
Kudzu Craft SOF kayaks
www.kudzucraft.com

  #11 Joe Feager

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 04:45 PM

The pieces of hard maple that I used seemed to fair better in the sharp curve.  It is all glued up now waiting on the next step.  I'm going to try Corey's lip of rope just to do something different.  His idea of running the loop on the back band around the lip seems to make sense.  On a friends boat they put a tee nut in the gunwale as an attachment point for the back band and it is too low.  My back band is attached to the deck beam astern of the cockpit on my SOF.

 

Jeff, not having seen your back bands do they have loop ends on the webbing or not?  If not I'll go with the bolt on.  Corey uses the Seals brand.

 

I'm also thinking of using the polyester fabric to re-cover an antique canoe I have sitting in storage.  I have read conflicting opinions on this.  Anyone have any thoughts?

 

Joe



  #12 Kudzu

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 05:27 PM

I meant to add, that I look at how stiff the coaming is to determine if I have enough lamination's. The basswood is so bendy I make those a little thicker.

 

My backbands have 4 small loops  you can pull your bungee through. 

 

As for the canoe, stick with canvas and do it right. I have never done one but if I ever do it will go back original. From what I understand it's a pain in the rear to do right, but it will last for many many years.


Jeff
Kudzu Craft SOF kayaks
www.kudzucraft.com

  #13 Joe Feager

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 08:17 PM

Yea, it was the PIA factor I was trying to avoid.  Stretching the canvas and setting the canoe in is going to be a difficult project.  I'll have to think of the process more than shrinking the poly.



  #14 Kudzu

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 04:51 AM

If you are on Facebook, 'like' Kettle River Canoes. He is in Canada I think, but he restored old canoes and judging by his photos his work is amazing. Even though I don't care for canoes I loved to watch his work.


Jeff
Kudzu Craft SOF kayaks
www.kudzucraft.com

  #15 Joe Feager

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 07:43 AM

I like that website!  Just what I need.  I have been afraid of tackling that project for lack of knowledge.  Now at least I have a reference.  Canoe was badly hogged and has been screwed to a 2/4 strong back to try and pull out. 

 

Thanks Jeff.