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  #1 Joe Feager

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Posted 19 December 2012 - 08:46 PM

Jeff,

I received both your books about a month ago.  I'm interested in building the Curlew but after reading some other posts I wonder if permissions were given with the purchase of the book.  Lofting from your coordinates doesn't bother me, except I need larger paper after frame 2'8". ;)  It would be a good learning experience for me.   Also, in trying to loft frame 1'0" I got confused because while on pg 30 of your book you show a deck beam no coordinates were shown in the table.  Comparing the stern top to the frame it looks as though flat across the top is correct but that also conflicts with pg 30 as the picture shows a ridge at center top.  Let me know whether or not to proceed and I'll go from there.

 

Joe



  #2 labrat

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Posted 20 December 2012 - 06:04 AM

Hi there Joe, (pardon me for butting in) I am building Curlew from the information in the book as well and have come up against the same problems. I get the impression that the original design had the centre deck stringer stop short of the other 2 but this was later modified. There's a photo in Jeff's Curlew reskin thread where it looks like the centre stringer was extended by scarfing another piece onto it. http://messing-about...-curlew-reskin/

 

Anyhow I have just modified the frame immediately in front of the deck so it will take the longer stringer. There are a few other little things that an experienced builder would probably deal with easily but that I am taking some time to work out because this construction method is new to me. One other is the bottom of the bow piece - a dimension is missing that is needed to make it fit over the keel stringer.

 

There is a lot of information in these forums if you go back through them. A particularly good example of a Curlew build with some very clear photos of the frame is Hirilonde's and is found here: http://messing-about...754-curlew-too/

 

I think most of the answers are already on the forum here somewhere but there is also a corrections page on the Kudzu craft site : http://www.kudzucraf...corrections.php



  #3 Joe Feager

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Posted 20 December 2012 - 06:38 AM

Thanks, I'll check them out. 

 

I have a couple online banjo mates down your way.



  #4 Joe Feager

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Posted 20 December 2012 - 07:15 AM

OK, I see that frame 1 does have a "ridge" where the deck beam sits.  Makes sense to keep an air space between the skin and the stern top.  That matches the picture on page 30, now to find a coordinate.  Since the Z coord at 0 for 5'4"-4'4 1/2"-2'8" frames increases to the stern then the Z dimension for frame 1'0" should be higher than on frame 2' 8".  Proportionally this works out to just a shade less than 4/16" generating a Z coord of 8 10/16" at the center of the frame.  Comments?



  #5 Kudzu

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Posted 20 December 2012 - 07:28 AM

Huh? :-)

 

OK, I guess I need more coffee. Sounds like you have the answers to your question. I will pull out the book and look at this and if needed weight in. IF NEEDED.


Jeff
Kudzu Craft SOF kayaks
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  #6 Kudzu

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Posted 20 December 2012 - 07:31 AM

Jeff,
I received both your books about a month ago.  I'm interested in building the Curlew but after reading some other posts I wonder if permissions were given with the purchase of the book.
 


You can build anything in the book. Once those plans are published you are free to build as many as you want. I do offer full sized plans if you want, but there is no issue with building from the book.
Jeff
Kudzu Craft SOF kayaks
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  #7 woodman

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Posted 20 December 2012 - 07:40 AM

If you have the cockpit ring build ahead of time you can lay it on top the frames to see where the deck stringers will land...But I still like to leave them long during the build...And the two top stringers in front of the cockpit be sure to run them long enough toward the bow so the blunt ends don't show through the skin..

 

Attached File  tn_100_2077.JPG   59.91KB   10 downloads

 

Attached File  tn_100_2082.JPG   52.37KB   11 downloads

 

Here is an example of adding wedges to the 2 side deck stringers to give more support to the rear of the cockpit ring

Attached File  tn_100_3110.JPG   76.25KB   11 downloads



  #8 Joe Feager

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Posted 20 December 2012 - 07:59 AM

Huh? :-)

 

OK, I guess I need more coffee. Sounds like you have the answers to your question. I will pull out the book and look at this and if needed weight in. IF NEEDED.

Weighing in is needed.  I was trying to make and educated? guess.



  #9 Kudzu

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Posted 20 December 2012 - 10:01 AM

Amazing how after all this time and all the boats built, things like this are just being brought to my attention.

 

"Now" when I look at it I go. "Hey! There is a dimension missing" 2 years(?) ago when I wrote it, it looks great! :-)

 

 Proportionally this works out to just a shade less than 4/16" generating a Z coord of 8 10/16" at the center of the frame.  Comments?

 

I was going to say 8 5/8 so I would say you are dead on the money.  I will have to get that on the web site.


Jeff
Kudzu Craft SOF kayaks
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  #10 Joe Feager

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Posted 20 December 2012 - 10:52 AM

Thanks, I'll add that to the sketch.  Strongback is done, baltic birch is in storage.  Have a paddle to finish first.  Still need to do stringer shopping.  Have some D or better WRC but saving it for paddle wood. ;)  Oh, and to Kinko's for 36" paper.



  #11 Hirilonde

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Posted 20 December 2012 - 12:08 PM

I did all my lofting of frames right on the plywood.  Makes for less work, I hate more work.


Dave Finnegan

1967 Pearson Renegade  "Hirilondë"

Spindrift 9N #521 -  many KudzuCraft SoF kayaks


  #12 Joe Feager

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 02:41 PM

Update!  The frames are cut out, notched, and edges rounded.  The coaming form is made with my revisions.  Stringers are ripped and sized and the maple strips are done.  Now I need the brackets and then the next step is building the coaming and doing the scarf  joints.  My goal is to get everything ready to lash together before setting up the strongback.  Truck will have to sit outside once I start.  I made a mistake when rounding off the edges and did the top of the stern stem so if it needs reinforcing I'll make a fillet of epoxy dookie schmutz.  Being tied into frame 1' may be enough to stiffen the top plate.  After a minute of chastising I didn't feel like cutting out another piece.

 

So far this project has made me upgrade my band saw and clean out my dust collector.  I just happened to take a feel of the collector bag and found it 1/2 full.  Oops.  Got rid of cobwebs and leaves back in the corner at the same time. 

 

Took some time this morning to check another boat for dimensions.  Paddled it yesterday and got a good feel for foot space.  It is not a large volume boat so it would give me some good ideas for a comparison.  All the measurements appear to be close to those of the Curlew at frame 10'.  And I'm going to be close to there with the pegs.






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