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Building the CS 17 #338


Neil Brander

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I never glue bungs, but use shellac or varnish to seal them in for the same reason.  Interesting idea.  Just be careful not to contaminate the surface around the hole with the wax.

I never glue bungs, but use shellac or varnish to seal them in for the same reason.  Interesting idea.  Just be careful not to contaminate the surface around the hole with the wax.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks Peter,

 

This looks different from what the plans suggest(which includes an S hook?)?  But. it also looks very secure and simple,  What is the hardware called that connects to the eye strap on the mast?  And, I gather you used the same set-up for both masts, just stopped at a clam cleat on the missen?

 

Neil

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This looks different from what the plans suggest(which includes an S hook?)? But. it also looks very secure and simple, What is the hardware called that connects to the eye strap on the mast? And, I gather you used the same set-up for both masts, just stopped at a clam cleat on the missen?

They are called snap hooks here- come in a few shapes and sizes. Inflation seems to have doubled the price since I last bought a batch but they are still cheap.

https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?item=43851&search123=snap+hook&intAbsolutePage=2

 

The mizzen is the same except there's no need to disconnect from the mast so it's shackled to the mast fitting, has a snap hook to attach to the boom and simply cleats off on the front of the mizzen mast.

Cheers

Peter HK

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For mast and boom hardware I like TEF Gel for the fasteners.  Thin plastic can be used as a washer between the base of the hardware and the aluminum spar if the hardware does not come with something already. 

 

Bedding hardware to the boat is very important.  The key word is bedding, not gluing.  West Marine and other suppliers are pushing 5200 for everything, which is a huge mistake in my opinion.  Hardware eventually has to be removed.  Either to replace, clean, repair or something.  Strong adhesive sealants like 5200 will tear your boat apart during the hardware removal.  All you need is a good seal to keep the water from getting under the hardware and into/through the fastener holes.  Silicone products are evil.  They work fine, but contaminate any surface they touch such that no material will ever stick properly again.  This means that painting or varnishing a surface contaminated by silicone will be a frustrating endeavor.  I like polysufides for hardare on wooden surfaces regardless of how the wood is coated.  Boatlife Lifecaulk and 3M 101 are polysulfides.  They are adhesive enough to stick to the hardware and mating surface such as to make a good waterproof seal, yet not so adhesive that you can't remove the hardware down the road.

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Other questions, what did you use to isolate the SS from the aluminum and for attaching deck hardware is it always necessary to use SS 316?

I used this stuff for isolation.

http://www.cassellmarine.com.au/p/337808/duralac---anti-corrosive-joining-compound.html

 

316 stainless is better but 304 can be OK...it does corrode/stain a bit more especially in warmer climates.

 

Cheers

Peter HK

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The product Peter mentions is Duralac, a barium chromate paste that we have used for years at Hall Spars to isolate stainless and aluminum.  It is about the consistency of toothpaste and drys like a paint and is very impervious to salt water.  We also use Tef-Gel if the fasteners are to be regularly removed on a fitting for service.  For permanent fasteners the Duralac is probably best because it acts like loctite when it dries.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thank you all for your help.  I'm sorry I'm so tardy with this reply but we've been traveling and just got back.

 

One other question:  the bailer has protrusions on the underside to allow the screws to counter sink.  Does that mean I counter sink into the hull bottom to allow for this or do I create a gasket of some kind?  It just seems like the counter sinks seem very large for the thickness of the hull bottom.

 

Neil

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I never glue bungs, but use shellac or varnish to seal them in for the same reason.  Interesting idea.  Just be careful not to contaminate the surface around the hole with the wax.I never glue bungs, but use shellac or varnish to seal them in for the same reason.  Interesting idea.  Just be careful not to contaminate the surface around the hole with the wax.

You can say that again.
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Thanks all,

 

The reason I don't want to paint the masts is because over time they will get chipped and looking poorly.  The reason I do want to paint them is they will look better initially and the paint will isolate the SS track and assorted hardware from the aluminum mast.  But if Dave says I will have to put something on the mast and I already have the primer and paint , well I guess I lean toward painting them!

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A good quality paint will resist chipping and marring for several years, mostly because of it's hardness. Naturally the LPU's are the best choice, but also are the most costly. A single part moisture cure polyurethane that I've recently tested, will do a fine job too. It's aluminum in color out of the can and is especially tough stuff, for a single part poly. It's called "Aluthane" and available at EpoxyProducts.com (>http://www.epoxyproducts.com/e_nonepoxy.html<). Tell Paul I sent you, maybe he'll give you a discount. He's an epoxy formulator (20+ years) and knows his stuff. The Aluthane can be over coated and it's a durable, reasonably economical product, particularly compared to LPU's.

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