Coaming
#1
Posted 28 October 2012 - 12:42 PM
1. the coaming on the front of the manual and the green shad on the webpage look upswept in the front. How can i make one like that?
2. when the coaming is finished. What is the height, thickness of the coaming and the rim?
Sander
#2
Posted 28 October 2012 - 01:10 PM
Dave Finnegan
http://charlestownboatworks.com
1967 Pearson Renegade "Hirilondë"
Spindrift 9N #521 - many KudzuCraft SoF kayaks
#3
Posted 29 October 2012 - 03:43 AM
#4
Posted 29 October 2012 - 07:29 AM
Attached Files
1st build - Curlew
#5
Posted 29 October 2012 - 09:51 AM
Also have a video on building the laminated coaming and I talk about sizes. But it is up to you. I prefer the look of a shorter coaming but that is just my preference. (I am kind of picky about looks) It just needs to be tall enough to drill the holes and be able to get your skirt over the lip and hold it in place securely.
Kudzu Craft SOF kayaks
www.kudzucraft.com
#6
Posted 29 October 2012 - 10:42 AM
Sander
#7
Posted 29 October 2012 - 12:01 PM
I built and redesigned the Cast Away frame three times before I got what I wanted. Mistakes are just learning moments. Some of have more than others! :-)
Kudzu Craft SOF kayaks
www.kudzucraft.com
#8
Posted 30 December 2012 - 09:16 AM
Since the subject was already available I thought I'd continue the thread with a slightly different subject. I finally got around to doing a trial layout from the offsets in the book and decided to make some changes. I use a Seals 1.7 on my Pygmy's and want to stay with that size coaming and skirt. There is not a lot of difference anyway. Pygmy's are 17" by 33". Changing the width was the easy part and doing a proportional calculation from the X=10 position back to the X=1 generated a smooth curve. I wasn't so lucky from X=10 forward to X=34. Changing X=34 to a Y of 0 really caused me some problems. I eventually got something worked out but resorted to the use of a flexible curve from position 31 to 34. Now I'm thinking I should have done something that changed the X dimension of the widest point instead of working from that point fore and aft. I didn't try the XY scatter function in Excel and maybe I should have. Anyway, I have a workable drawing now.
Joe
#9
Posted 31 December 2012 - 01:18 PM
Joe:
Like you, I have a Pygmy boat and just finished a Kudzu boat (Ravenswood). Unlike you, I wasn't clever enough to plan ahead to use my Seals 1.7 skirt. The good news is that Seals made me a custom skirt from a tracing of the Ravenswood coaming, which I ordered thru one of their local dealers (Campmor). It took only a couple weeks and cost me the same as a standard size skirt. Now, if I was doing it again, I would simply trace the Pygmy coaming and make one just like it for the SOF boat. As you wrote, the overall dimensions of the two coamings are pretty close. Just leave the ends of the deck beams a bit long until you figure out how the coaming will rest on them. The Pygmy coaming has a little peak at the forward end, but I don't think that flattening that out would change the fit of the skirt significantly.
Fair winds and a happy 2013, Andy
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