8 replies to this topic

[FloatingBear]

I found a post from 2011 on this but not much was said. Jeff you mentioned some of our brothers from down under who had very poor service from 2 part polyurathane. I am curious if this is the same product that is available from Spirit Line that is supposed to have UV inhibitors added in? I'm also wondering if their poly might be a good choice for coating frames prior to skinning and if thinned and stained would make for a nice looking boat? I am planning on using your 8oz polyester fabric to skin some yaks, canoes and pirogues that I'm going to build.

Do any of you guys have any experiance with this 2 part poly from Spirit Line???

[Kudzu]

I have never had any experience with 'Cory's Goop' myself but I have read a lot about it. Based on what I read it is hard to apply. You have to mix it and keeping the ratio resin to hardener just right. You have to put on 3 coats, wet on wet, troweling it on. It is very difficult to to keep it from running. You have to spend a lot of time babysitting it watching for runs. I have never heard of it being used on polyester, it was developed for nylon which not much will stick too. I have not found anything that will not stick to polyester so I have never seen any reason to try it.

With nylon there are only a couple of options, with polyester there are so many it's just a why bother for me?

As for coating the frames I still advocate good plywood and just oiling it. It works.

[FloatingBear]

I have Cedar for my stringers. Which oil do you suggest? Tung?

Thanks for the info on the 2 part Polyurathane. I think I'll be avoiding that stuff.

On your 8oz polyester fabric. How tough is it compared to nylon? What are you applying to it to make it so stinking strong. I am assuming that is polyester on the boat you used for demonstration in the U-Tube destructo video.

P.S. I must get your book on it's way to my mail box. Nix that. Order placed!

[Hirilonde]

A good epoxy used for waterproofing plywood is probably the best material there is. You have to keep in mind that most have no UV protection and must be coated over with something that does. I don't trust the ones that say they do have UV protection. There are techniques for working with the stuff, but yes, it can be tedious. This being said, I see no reason to use it on the frames of a SOF kayak, ,mostly for the reason Jeff mentions: that it just isn't necessary because these boat are not left in the water.

The term "tung oil" can be very misleading. Most products labeled such are really a tung oil varnish or at least a blend of materials. Few if any have any UV protection. The interior of a kayak won't see much sun, but I still think it should have some UV protection. Any oil intended for exterior use will work. I like products called teak oil as they are intended as a water barrier and capable of standing up to UV.

[FloatingBear]

Thanks for the insight guys!!!

[Kudzu]

If you can find REAL tung oil it is probably the best choice.
I use BLO (boiled linseed oil) and it works but it is not the best choice.
I tried mineral oil and do not recommend it. It doesn't last.

[FloatingBear]

What do you guys think about Teak and Danish Oil from Watco?

[Hirilonde]

I used Watco teak oil on the Meranti rack and side boards on my pick up. It stays outside (garage is a shop). It lasts about a year before it looks like it should get another coat. I figure that translates into many, many years for a kayak frame. I believe you will find that the Danish oil is a furniture finish and probably has no UV protection at all.

[FloatingBear]

Watco Teak it is. I'll pick some up at Lowes tomorrow. Thanks