173 replies to this topic

[hightechmarine]

Miyot So much fun. Something primal about building a boat. I have purchased a set of plans myself. I plan on using corcell and will bead and cove it. I am still about 3 weeks from starting with anger. My background is high speed racing sailboats. This is my first step into the powerboat world. Something to be said about going straight upwind. I'll keep you posted.

PG

[Miyot]

hightechmarine, looking forward to seeing your build. Keep us posted and enjoy your build.

[Miyot]

Added some doublers where the frames fasten to the keel. I wanted limbers along here and I thought the additional strength would help. I saw NZ Lance had added doublers here and I liked the idea. Also a pic of the Transom. I will add the additional plys to the inside of the Transom now rather than after turnover. If anyone wondered about the gap on the inboard stringer (on one of the previous photos) at the Transom, the 3 additional plys will fill it and the stringer will fit into a notch on the final ply. I will also make a small frame around the perimeter of the inside of the Transom that the side stringers and Chine batten will notch into. Here are some pics.  IMG_5932.JPG   49.86K   53 downloads  IMG_5934.JPG   71.86K   69 downloads  IMG_5938.JPG   73.18K   71 downloads  IMG_5940.JPG   60.91K   65 downloads The Limbers look a little high, but a fillet will run on both sides of the keel on the bottom and with the glass, should come out about right. I will install a bilge pump aft at the Transom.

[Howard]

Coming along nicely!  It would appear to me you must have extensive background working with wood.

 

Your mention of limber holes probably warrants additional discussion on two fronts. One is the necessity to seal the holes. Some simply coat them with epoxy. Some will fit a piece of epoxy tape to the surface. Others will go so far as to epoxy in a short section of 1" outside diameter PVC pipe, flush on both sides or protruding slightly. That would pretty much seal it up.

 

Second part is the tradeoff of having each compartment drain to a central bilge to be pumped out, vs. knowing that if the boat were ever holed, water could then back through all those limber holes and flood the boat, potentially allowing her to sink. Without the holes, water will be contained in the damaged area, but would then be trapped in those compartments, which over time, would be equally bad.

 

On balance, my guess is adding the holes is best as water from a variety of sources (including condensation) may get in and needs to get out. Punching a hole in the boat is pretty rare. One option may be the use of a few one way check valves at key points in the system. Those are pretty simple to do.

[Miyot]

Thats a nice comment Howard. In fact this is my 3rd and largest boat, but I had never worked with wood before I began building boats. I considered the points you have made and they are valid. I decided to go with all compartments draining to the aft bilge, where I'll have two bilge pumps. The check valve idea sounds pretty good, but I probably won't do that. I am just afraid that water will eventually get into the boat and would have no way out. Although it will be kept mostly on the trailer. I did struggle with the problem and opted for the limbers. I did see a telephone pole once, about 20 miles offshore. It was floating upright with about a foot of it sticking out of the water. Definitely a boat sinker. I will carry some kind of emergency patching kit on board. I had planned on just sealing the limbers with epoxy, perhaps with some glass as well.
Thanks for the nice comment, better wait to see how it looks finished.
Dave

[nz lance]

Build is looking great Dave. I procrastinated over weather or not to do limber holes as per plan. If the holes were not put in the underfloor compartments would obviously act as seperate boyancy chambers basically meaning you would have to puncture the hull about 12 times in different areas before she filled up. (you probaly should not be in charge of a boat if you can manage that). But with a free draining underfloor are it is a real piece of mind to know any water getting in will get out, and the boyancey problem is solved simply by placing polystyrine under all the floor panels. I used plastic re-bar chairs to hold the poly up off the hull to allow free draining. They are cheap, strong and wont rot being plastic and they worked a treat. I put scupper drain holes in the foot well in the cabin, so after a days fishing....( Its utterly staggering how far fish blood will splatter) I can get the garden hose right up into the cabin, wash everything down, and all water is gone within seconds out the drain plug (bung) at the transom as long as the hull is tipped up above level. The floor on mine is drained into a bilge eventhough its high enough above waterline to allow transome scuppers, I beach launch...and an oncoming wave will push water into hull. Where I mainly use the boat there isnt alot of swell plus the cabin and combings deflect 99% of all water so the poor old bilge pump has quite a boring life.
You are deffinatly doing the right thing Dave, and making great progress shes looking fantastic mate.

[Miyot]

Good to hear from you Lance. Hope your having a good summer and enjoying your boat. Snowing hard here at the moment, possible 6 inches today. Going skiing Sunday. Spring is not far off. Probably another year before my launching. Good idea on the poly, I too will use something to make sure my foam stays off the bottom, allowing water to drain.
Dave

[Dale Niemann]

In my Marissa, I glued all the foam on the floor upside down before gluing it in.

dale

[Miyot]

In my Marissa, I glued all the foam on the floor upside down before gluing it in.
dale

Dale, what kind of glue did you use? Also what kind of foam? I briefly looked at a few websites that carried foam, etc. But didn't really get into it as it is a ways off for me. I worried about the glue letting go yrs down the road and the foam falling down. I planned to use something like Lance did to keep it off the bottom.
Dave

[Miyot]

Initial fitting of Chine Batten. Some fine tuning to do to some of the notches and I'll glue it in. It would be nice to have help, by yourself its like wrestling with a steel spring. I fit the batten at the transom, worked forward and cut the compound miter at the stem. After fitting I tried working backward from the stem, thinking it would be easier to fasten at the stem. This was far worse. Starting aft and moving forward seems best.  IMG_5947.JPG   48.02K   58 downloads  IMG_5950.JPG   81.2K   84 downloads  IMG_5952.JPG   132.3K   99 downloads  IMG_5951.JPG   124.44K   87 downloads

[hightechmarine]

Hello Miyot;

I hate the look of a drain in the bow for the anchor locker. If you drain into the bildge it smells. I am going to run a small tube from the bow to the bildge pump aft. Where the fuel tanks sit I will seal the area off from the bildge, ventilate to the outside, but then put a  tube that goes aft with a removable plug for winter in case any water has got in there. You build is coming great lots of fun to watch. I am still 2 weeks away from starting. I really hate working for living.

PG

[Miyot]

Both Chine Battens installed. Bottom nearly fared. I need to install 3 more plys to the inside of the transom and install the forward deck stringers and the bottom will be ready to plank. I believe i'll plank the bottom before installing the side stringers. This will give me a little room to work.  IMG_5962.JPG   120.67K   118 downloads  IMG_5968.JPG   67.81K   97 downloads  IMG_5976.JPG   107.81K   92 downloads

[Miyot]

Both Chine Battens installed. Bottom nearly fared. I need to install 3 more plys to the inside of the transom and install the forward deck stringers and the bottom will be ready to plank. I believe i'll plank the bottom before installing the side stringers. This will give me a little room to work.  IMG_5962.JPG   120.67K   118 downloads[  IMG_5962.JPG   120.62K   48 downloadsattachment=8489:IMG_5968.JPG]  IMG_5976.JPG   107.81K   92 downloads

[Fishman38]

Fine looking work!  Tell me please, in the middle picture where the chines join the stem, do you use any screws and if so are they temporary or permanent and if permanent what type of screw?  I'm speaking of the middle picture in the 3:24 posting.  Looks like the middle one in the 3:27 posting got inverted. 

[Miyot]

Fishman38, I didn't use any screws to fasten the chines to the stem. I thought about doing so, but got the clamps to draw it in tightly, which took some fiddling as clamps don't like to work on angles. I was afraid to use a screw to far forward for fear of splitting the chine batten. You could use screws, but either remove them after the glue sets up, or set them deep enough to avoid them while fairing. I will, and have used screws in this build. The screws I leave in the boat are silicon bronze. These can't usually be removed after the epoxy sets up. The bronze is soft and the screw usually breaks off if you try and remove it.

I worried over this problem some, and have used some stainless screws. They are stronger than the bronze and can be removed if done so in time, but invariably some break off. Which is not a problem if they are deep enough to avoid while fairing. I have found a screw that can be left in until the epoxy sets up fully and then removed. They are called metal lath screws and can be found at Lowes stores. They have a washer of sorts formed at the head of the screw and you can get them in several varieties and lengths. They have some with a self tapping or cutting tip and the others have a normal sharp tip, which I liked best. I did some experimenting with these and have not broken one yet. I use these for all my epoxy work, and have yet to break one. They are strong, but can't be left in the boat. Perfect screw for planking.

Hightech marine, looking forward to seeing your build. Keep us posted.
Dave

Fishman 38, I inverted the one pic so you could see the boat right side up. Didn't mean to post twice.
Dave

[Fishman38]

Thanks Dave.  I too am concerned about clamping on such angles as well as spliting the wood with screws and obviously whether if screws were used they could be left in place.  Thanks again for the info. 

Jerry

[Fishman38]

Regarding the inverted pic; My bad-- I assumed it was inverted umm  inadvertently.............

[Scott Dunsworth]

From the pictures it looks like your doing a good job keeping things accurate and true. I always hated beveling those doggone stems! I love to do scarfs now, that used to be my biggest dread. If I could just come to love sanding I would have it made.

 

Your making good progress also.

 

Looking very good keep it up.

 

Scott

[hokeyhydro]

Your build is going well and looks very nice. Heat well release an epoxied in screw. I heat screwdriver shaft with a propane torch, set tip in screw, wait for about 10-15 seconds, apply torque. Same for pulling wire stitches on S&G builds except I use a mini-propane torch = Bic lighter.

Drywall screws are my fav for temp clamping and knocking together jigs and molds. My theory is with duct tape, drywall screws, and zip ties one has near every conceivable repair covered. Caution: The underside of a drywall screw head is "trumpet" shaped and has been known to split a chine batten. Some wood species seem more prone to splitting than others, but I haven't kept notes on that. The washer head screws with a cutter tip sound ideal.

[Fishman38]

The washer head screw mentioned with cutter tip; I am familiar with one such which is basically a sheet metal screw with a hex drive head.  They also come with a sharp tip.  They're very tough and the hex drive would facilitate removal better maybe than other drive types certain better than slot or phillip drives.  Dave is this the screw you're refering to?