CS20 mk.2

[Scott Dunsworth]

Just curious why the cabin front isn't rounded like on the EC22?

[Idratherbe]

Nice work and a very interesting design, but I'm not sold on the offset trunk. How feasible would it be to have two smaller centerboards (i.e bilgeboards like those found on some types of scows) with their trunks set against or built into the seats? That might really open up the cockpit and seating up front.

[MisterMoon]

All CS centerboards are offset. It's not at all noticeable underway. I personally favor decking over the boat in the way of CB, it's just much more comfortable that way with a big sprawling space forward.

Chuck, I noticed you went with full length coamings on the cockpit. Interesting choice, considering I'm planning on planing my small ones flush with the deck. I guess you don't plan on hiking at all?

Also, is the top of the CB case going to be sealed inside the cabin? My CB case spits a lot of water when it gets rough.

[Chick Ludwig]

I've had several boats with an offset trunk, one with the trunk much more offset than this one, and never noticed the difference.

I plan on having a removable "cap" over the space between the c/b trunk and the seat. The trunk will be sealed inside the cabin except for where the c/b pennant comes through. My Princess sharpie was like this and sometimes sprayed a little water through the hole where the penant comes out. I have some ideas on how to stop that that I'll try. On Princess, I just layed a towel over it.

I don't plan on hiking. With the water ballast, she should be stiffer, so there is not as much need. I'm strictly a lazy cruiser and like comfortable seat backs. Like Atkins used to say, "Different ships, different long splices".

As for double bilge boards---why get this complicated? The trunk isn't particularly obtrusive anyway.

[Chick Ludwig]

Oops, forgot one question about why cabin front isn't rounded. The flat cabin front is easier to build. This cabin is designed to be built in place on the boat where the EC-22 is pre-built upside down with laminated curves, then added on.

I'll get some pictures of the c/b trunk offset and post them later.

[Chick Ludwig]

]Here are some pictures of the c/b trunk. As you can see, it isn't very intrusive in the cabin. The cockpit views show it with and without a "cap---filler" next to the seat. This allows the use of the standard hatch in the seat.

The last picture is of a shelf next to the companionway.

[maligno]

How does one fill up and bail the water ballast?

Is there a through-hull valve or drain?

Thanks.

[Chick Ludwig]

For the water ballast, there is a self-bailer to open to remove the water, and a thru-hull to take the water in. I'm using a standard boat transom drain plug for this.

Access is through the round plastic port that you see in the picture of the forward end of the cockpit. The cockpit sole (floor) is above the water line, so you can't flood the boat.

The water ballast is only needed when the conditions are rough---windy. It should make the boat self-righting from a full knock-down. We'll do inclining tests when the boat is finished, just to be sure.

[Steve W]

So you open the port and release an elvstrom type baler to bail or fill? I really like this boat. I can't wait to see it finished. thanks for all the photos.

Take Care,

Steve

[Chick Ludwig]

To bail. "The transom" drain plug to fill. The bailer is right next ti the keel batten in the lowest area of the hull. The plug is right next to it. Graham says that the bailer will pull water out even when the boat is only moving slowly.

[Chick Ludwig]

Here are some new pictures. The deck, cockpit, and cabin have been coated with epoxy. Lots of outgassing bubbles and "fuzz" to sand out. Then another coat of epoxy, then paint and varnish.

Here is the centerboard with the tip cut off to use to make the plaster mold to pour the lead. Next to it is the mold. The other pictures are of the completed (except for paint or varnish) rudder parts and tiller.

[ecgossett]

How are you planning on sealing the inside trunk for centerboard? Whenever waves hit mine I used to get a spray of water through the top.A piece of herculite that snaps in place (comes loose when board pulls back) fixed the problem...

[Chick Ludwig]

The trunk is totally enclosed on the CS-20 Mk 2 version. The lifting pennant is the only thing that comes through the top. It exits the trunk around a turning block on the top/forward end of the trunk, and then leads aft, through the aft cabin bulkhead to a block on the bridge deck. My princess was rigged the same way and would occasionally "squirt" a little spray through the hole for the pennant. I'm going to try a "cap" over the block to stop this. I'll post a picture later on this. I just cast the lead tip for the centerboard yesterday and need to bond it to my board, then install and rig it.

Getting really tired of sanding! It will be later this week or even next week before I'm ready to paint the cabin, cockpit and deck. All the small parts should be done by then too. All that will be left then are the spars, and final rigging of everything. Oh, and fitting the trailer to the boat.

It's taking longer to finish than I had planned---living life outside of boat building keeps getting in the way!!! Graham's mess-a-bout is coming up way to soon. Gotta get this thing DONE!

[Chick Ludwig]

Back to the c/b spraying water---Graham has this set-up on his "Skimmer" and has no problem. I'll let you know when I go out the first time.

Sanding is DONE. Tomorrow to sprinkle non-skid, and the first coat of spar varnish on companionway, tabernacle, bow sprit, and coamings. Monday will be a coat of off white polyurethane on the deck, cockpit, and cabin. I'll post a couple of pictures then. Hatches, rudder, tiller, centerboard all ready for paint or varnish.

Graham says that the sails are on order and ready to be cut. I'll start the masts and sprits tomorrow or Monday. Still not sure how I want my boom gallows/mast support (for trailering).

[Chick Ludwig]

Well, all that sanding, masking, spray painting----looks awful, runs, thin spots, broken heart. Moped around for a day, then back to sanding, masking--- try again.

This Devoe paint doesn't like me. That and I must have thinned it too much, and my glasses immediately fogged up with paint mist. Less thinner, no glasses (lousy vision, but at least I won't be looking through a paint film.

Maybe I'll let y'all see a picture or two of the disaster before repainting. This time it's gonna be GOOD,,,I hope!

[Chick Ludwig]

As promised---pictures of the disaster, also known as "the mess-up".

But, masking is about finished---again. Paint Monday---again. Ya'll pray!!!

[Scott Dunsworth]

For some reason I thought she was going to be yellow

[PeterP]

Chick, if you get your paint in New Bern talk to George -he is the manager. He'll get you squared away on your spraying. Basically, you thin for the gun. Find out what your gun likes (seconds through viscosity cup)and then everything gets thinned to that figure be it latex two part poly what ever. That's what he told me and it really works. I still get occasional curtain but that's because I am an old idjot who will never learn to be patient and always try to "fix" stuff while it is still too wet. Anyway looks good from here. PeterP

[hokeyhydro]

Yes, the vis cup. I have one, but not all paints like the same run out time. I always started with the drop time recommended by the paint manufacturer and then adjusted for gun nozzle. Of course the new hot setup is LPHV guns that reduce blowback. And speaking of hot one can always run a "hot pot" for stuff like varnish = paints goes on hot and thin, quickly cools before running or sagging.

[Chick Ludwig]

I thin about 20%-30%. I think the problem is really my vision and the "old idjot" you mentioned. I spray the paint to thick trying to "hide" and don't do in coats with "tack time" in between. For years I built fiberglass boats and sprayed gel coat which goes on at 15 mils---never have been able to break that habit! Like you say---old Idjot. I've actually got a good spray gun---but i still spray like it's a gel-coater.

Yellow would have been nice.