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Tangerine


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#41 P Douglass (WA)

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 08:35 AM

Yep. my first actions would be to double check the measurements on the end piece then remove the extra brackets and then double check the measurements of the brackets called for in the plans. Don't get discouraged, at this point it is fixable.
P Douglass
1st build - Curlew

#42 Kudzu

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 11:06 AM

Mike knows he is the first one to build this and I explained there might be some problems. You just never know till you build one. Mike and I will work it out and if any changes are needed they will be made on the plans.
Jeff
Kudzu Craft SOF kayaks
www.kudzucraft.com

#43 Mike John

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 07:47 PM

The outwhale is on. Of all the things I could have done wrong, one of them resulted in this. It's not a major problem.

The outwhale still makes contact with the stem and I can run a screw through it was well when all is considered. A little tweaking with the breasthook to make the stem and outwhales make fluid contact and all will be fixed.

The little shelf will add a lot of strength to that area but even the two little extra stringers on the inside stiffen it up, if I leave the shelf out. If a better builder than me does the boat there will most likely be no problem. I usually leave a little extra on top of the stem for such occassions but I forgot. I think that is a good idea but a second build will prove it was my fault most likely. Anyway, if you build Tangerine leave extra on the top side of the stem and trim it flush latter. The next build should tell us more.

Mike John

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#44 Mike John

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Posted 18 May 2012 - 10:57 PM

This is how I am going to solve the bow problem

I will attach some 3mm ply to a notched area in the inwhale and the side of the outwhale that also screws to the top of the stem. I will then fill the gap level to the top of the outwhale with western red cedar. Should work just fine.

Pictures in a day or two.

Mike John

#45 Mike John

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 08:20 PM

An Update.

I have been sick with a virus and progress has only been an hour here and there but I have the canoe off the strongback. Everything is lashed, including the keel. I broke a stringer when it got caught while turning the canoe over but I successfully scarfed a new piece in and it looks just fine. The lashing pulled unevenly and cut deeply into that stringer on one frame and weakened it.

I now have to put the blocks in between the gunwhales, put seats in, finish the breasthooks, put a floor in, oil it, skin it and put the protective strips on.

Mike John

#46 woodman

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 09:37 PM

I have been wating for this too....hope it is done before the forum goes down...

#47 P Douglass (WA)

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 07:53 AM

Yep, don't want you to feel any pressure, but the time for this forum is short! We need to see this completed!! :D :D
P Douglass
1st build - Curlew

#48 Mike John

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 04:45 PM

I hear what you are saying. I got a virus on top of a virus but I am mobile again today and I hope to do a bit more. I have two of the spacer blocks in. Fret none, I will continue this over to the new forum http://kudzucraft.com/forum/ I will see if I can move what I have here across.

Mike John

#49 Mike John

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 05:05 PM

It seems this forum is not dead yet. I'll keep posting here until Jeff has time to think what he wants to do.

Mike John

#50 Kudzu

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 06:39 PM

I am hoping this one stays here, but I will leave the other one just in case. Feel free to use both if you want or just this one.
Jeff
Kudzu Craft SOF kayaks
www.kudzucraft.com

#51 Mike John

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 08:17 PM

I keep posting here so it is all in the same place.

A total of seven spacer blocks in. I am putting the spacer blocks at the frame in first. I am cutting notches in them so they slip over and hide the top of the plywood frames and still sit well against the gunnels. A couple of screws will make them plenty strong enough.

Mike John

#52 Mike John

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Posted 23 June 2012 - 10:18 PM

All blocks are in. Finishing the decks is next.

Mike John

#53 Mike John

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Posted 30 June 2012 - 07:51 PM

I'm still working on it. I am trying to find a floor solution I like. My 1/2" plywood is a bit heavy for a floor but I might have to use it. I am trying to find some Douglas Fir which is harder to find and more expensive in Australia. I think I will have to fix some small cleats to the frame faces and put some floor cross beams on top of the cleats and then put the floorboards on top of the cross beams. Otherwise the floor will sit on the lashings and move about with flexing etc

Pics

http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream

http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream

Mike John

#54 Mike John

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 12:14 AM

Floor joists ready for the floor which will be Douglas Fir.

http://www.flickr.co...N05/7525560750/

http://www.flickr.co...N05/7525560842/

The best solution we could come up with and it took my brother in law Bob the Builder to come up with it.

MIke John

#55 Hirilonde

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 04:09 AM

Floor joists ....


Floor joists? ;)

Actually, they should probably be called floors as they connect across from the port to starboard frames (well, sides of the frame). Then the part you kneel on would be the sole. Modern boat building methods have tried some of the terminology of old, but I can never bring myself to calling what I stand, kneel or sit on the floor.

Looking good, and that may be a good solution. Did Jeff not include a detail for this?

Dave Finnegan
http://charlestownboatworks.com

1967 Pearson Renegade  "Hirilondë"

Spindrift 9N #521 -  many KudzuCraft SoF kayaks


#56 Kudzu

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 10:29 AM

No I didn't. Wasn't sure how to handle this one. I was thinking floor resting on top of the frames but that doesn't leave a flat floor. Of course Mikes solution raises the floor up and I wonder if that is going to be a problem. I just don't see a good answer at this point so anxious to see how this works out. Then I can make any needed changes.
Jeff
Kudzu Craft SOF kayaks
www.kudzucraft.com

#57 Hirilonde

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 03:29 PM

Personally I don't think the sole needs to be flat. I would consider attaching the strips (my preference) or plywood to the top of the frames and just follow the curve. Having a space between them and the skin is a good thing, but keeping it as low as possible is a plus as well.

Dave Finnegan
http://charlestownboatworks.com

1967 Pearson Renegade  "Hirilondë"

Spindrift 9N #521 -  many KudzuCraft SoF kayaks


#58 Kudzu

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 03:36 PM

Unless I was going to haul 'stuff' I am getting to where I am think just enough floor for my feet to rest on. Maybe even a removable slats like I have seen in small sailboats. Most people never carry anyting but maybe a small pack with water and snacks.
Jeff
Kudzu Craft SOF kayaks
www.kudzucraft.com

#59 Mike John

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 04:13 PM

I considered two boards down the middle but her royalnesses little legs would not have reached to that point. I considered laying boards on the frame and following the curve but in the end the boards would rest on the lashings and boards move and flex no matter how well you anchor them. The lashings would wear. The floor is a little higher than the frames but only by the width of the frame. See how it goes I guess but I think it should work. It's all a compromise.

Mike John

#60 Hirilonde

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 05:19 PM

It's all a compromise.


Probably the truest statement about boats there is.

Dave Finnegan
http://charlestownboatworks.com

1967 Pearson Renegade  "Hirilondë"

Spindrift 9N #521 -  many KudzuCraft SoF kayaks