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Mike John

Tangerine

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I am getting the materials together to build Tangerine. I'm in Australia and I can't get Lexel Caulk for between rub rails etc. Any Aussies - what do you use?

Mike John

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Mike welcome! I've really wanted to follow someone's build of this canoe. Good luck on you build and please provide lots of pictures and commentory on the process. I don't know of any other Aussies on this particular forum, but maybe on one of the other forums on this site. I know there are some on the Main forum and the B & B forum. They can probably help.

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Just make sure that what ever you use that it contains no silicone. Silicone contaminates what ever it touches such that paint, varnish and glue will never adhere well again. Looking forward to lots of pictures.

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I finished cutting the stringers and gunnels. Bad weather has held me up a bit.

I have to round them on the router but I think I will make it a 1/8" rounding on all four sides. Just checking with Jeff. Paulowina is weaker and lighter than WRC and I am cautious to make the stringers any smaller for fear of making them too weak. This will also make it easier to choose the best side to face inwards as I go.

I laid out the paper patterns on thin plywood for cutting. The patterns take up an area about 48" x 55" and I've got a picture to show how I laid them out. I got enough materials to build two of these to offset the cost of shipping so I need ply patterns of the frames. I will send Jeff the money for the second when I start it.

Mike John

post-2419-0-20349500-1334809241_thumb.jpg

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That should be fine Mike. I just like to smooth the corners because it makes it look much better I think. And your going to gain a lot of rigidity from the gunwales once they are installed. Stonefly frame is very stiff.

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Some of you would have realised but after I cut the first frame I realised that it's a canoe and that the fore and aft frames are the same so I only need to cut the pattern for frame one and two once. My first tip would be to use a scroll saw to cut the smallest frame - much easier.

I am going with 1/8" rounding all round on the stringers. Thanks for answering that one Jeff.

Mike John

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I seriously doubt anyone knew that Mike, your the first on to build it. ;)

I probably should add a note to the plans because that would save people time, cutting 2 at a time. I see the details but miss the obvious sometimes.

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I finished cutting the frames. I just have to sand them and round the edges. I stack cut the 2nd and 3rd and the 5th and 6th frame. Twice the value for the same effort. I used a combination of bandsaw and a scroll saw with a no 7 blade for the tight curves. I also cut the batten notches with the scroll saw. Good idea to stack cut Jeff and a great time saver - thanks.

Mike John

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Someone asked me how I held the frames together while stack cutting. Just three small nails top left, bottom middle and top right in the batten slots. This leaves no holes in the frame itself.

Mike John

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If there is no good place to put the small nails, and you can't live with the tiny holes, a couple dabs of hot glue works well too.

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I finished rounding the edges on all the frames. pic attch. I woke up with a bug today so that is my limit. I will sand the notices later as I fit the battens. I found some 17' lengths of timber to make the strongback Bjorn Thommasson style. That's next and I still need to finish rounding the stringers. I was not happy with the 1/8" rounding - it doesn't look or feel right to me so I am going to 1/4". 1/8" is quite small when you look at it. The frames are 1/4" and look good. We have the right to change our minds I guess.

Mike John

post-2419-0-59587800-1335324864_thumb.jpg

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Looking good, Mike. Hope you get over the bug so you can get back to it. This is the first one of these so all eyes are on you! How good do you work under pressure!! :D:lol:

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