Joe Nelson CS#35 Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 I am still having problems with my sail slugs catching on the sail tracks while hoisting or dousing sails on my CS 20. I'm wondering about getting the tracks welded together? The multi piece masts with steps between the differing diameters are a challenge too. I would love it if my sails slid up and down effortlessly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 Have you tried filing off the sharp corners at the ends of each section? Maybe even file over the ends on the top and back sides just a tad to reduce edges and burrs for the lugs to catch on? Or are the sections so out of line that this won't help? If so have you tried shims? Pictures might help people see the problem and offer ideas. Welding should not be necessary, but it is a little tedious to get the pieces lined up and the transitions working smoothly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Jones Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 second rounding the corners. I have metal exterior track on three masts, and it works slick. Once the corners are well rounded, no snags at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom151 Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 FWIW - another method I've seen is to drill a 'hole' exactly centered at the joint between the sections Half the hole in each section - of course the sections need be exactly aliged before hand Then inset a screw/machine-screw through the hole into the mast. This at least stops sideways misalignment. HTH, TomH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokeyhydro Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 FWIW - another method I've seen is to drill a 'hole' exactly centered at the joint between the sections Half the hole in each section - of course the sections need be exactly aliged before hand Then inset a screw/machine-screw through the hole into the mast. This at least stops sideways misalignment. HTH, TomH Yeah, but . . . I believe the OP has multi piece masts w/tracks so he is assembling same to rig, so a screw, albeit a great idea, isn't workable in that situation. I'd go for well rounded edges and maybe better "keying" of the mast parts to keep it all aligned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 Quite often with the stamped steel tracks, the height of the track varies slightly from piece to piece. It's important to vertically align them, but also to insure the height off the mast, is the same at the transition between the two sections. Rounding corners is a logical thing, but for naught if the lips also don't align. Look carefully at these lips (the little wings of the track) and insure they are the same height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 Quite often with the stamped steel tracks, the height of the track varies slightly from piece to piece. It's important to vertically align them, but also to insure the height off the mast, is the same at the transition between the two sections. Rounding corners is a logical thing, but for naught if the lips also don't align. Look carefully at these lips (the little wings of the track) and insure they are the same height. Yeah, maybe I should have been more explicit, but this is why I mentioned shims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Nelson CS#35 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 I think I am going to inquire about getting the tracks welded together. This would eliminate most of the issues, I believe. Too bad you cant get one piece tracks that are long enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Nelson CS#35 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 second rounding the corners. I have metal exterior track on three masts, and it works slick. Once the corners are well rounded, no snags at all. Would I need to pop the tracks off the mast to smooth the corners? Any issues with the slugs on the sails needing to be smoothed out on the edges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 There is another issue that no one has mentioned; the track is cut to width in a shear and the edges are sharp. It is necessary to file the edges of the track and make them smooth, especially the under side. Apply a little dry lube or some wax and it will slide much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Nelson CS#35 Posted March 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 Anyone have a picture of what properly rounded track ends look like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Niemann Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 Do you keep the boat in the water? I keep 'Lively' on a trailer and never drop the sails unless I am reefing. I roll the sails up on the masts for storage on mast holders that fit into the mast holes. The sails rolled up also act as a great boat cover holder upper. Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Nelson CS#35 Posted March 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 No, shes a land lubber most of the time on a trailer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokeyhydro Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 Anyone have a picture of what properly rounded track ends look like? No photos, but just a few quick licks with a file will do the job. EDGE rounding, and maybe a touch on the corners just for pretty, and as Graham mentioned, a few strokes on the backside edge where the metal sail thingies slide. Say 1/16" radius would give you a 1/8" circle = way thicker than the stainless track, so you're looking for maybe a 1/32" radius on the ends, or less. Just a few licks with a file to break the sharp edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Jones Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 Here ya go. Ignore the dirt- the boat has been stored for a few years while I was out cruising Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecgossett Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 Occasionally my sail lug will hang up but that just involves raising slightly then lowering again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Nelson CS#35 Posted March 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 Thanks guys. Maybe I'll try the less invasive route of drilling out my rivets in the ends of the track so I can lift them to round the corners before taking them off to have welded. I already have some clinkers inside my mast from previous rivets that have been drilled out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokeyhydro Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 Pop rivets? Most of those have steel mandrels so you might want to try shaking them out - steel v aluminum eek! I have all aluminum pop rivets left over from a rebuild of my aluminum `87 Starcraft and could send you a mess if you need them. wjhuson43@gmail.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 Stainless steel rivets are the usual choice. You can isolate them with an inert washer if you like. Nut inserts, which are a fancy rivet with threads inside are also an option, again stainless, because you can't get an aluminum rivet in the size necessary, with the strength needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokeyhydro Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 Stainless steel rivets are the usual choice. You can isolate them with an inert washer if you like. Nut inserts, which are a fancy rivet with threads inside are also an option, again stainless, because you can't get an aluminum rivet in the size necessary, with the strength needed. Aluminum rivets I have are 3/16" and strong enough to keep stuff tacked in place on a twisty runabout that exceeds 50 MPH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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