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Still having trouble with multi piece sail track


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I am still having problems with my sail slugs catching on the sail tracks while hoisting or dousing sails on my CS 20. I'm wondering about getting the tracks welded together?

The multi piece masts with steps between the differing diameters are a challenge too. I would love it if my sails slid up and down effortlessly.

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Have you tried filing off the sharp corners at the ends of each section? Maybe even file over the ends on the top and back sides just a tad to reduce edges and burrs for the lugs to catch on? Or are the sections so out of line that this won't help? If so have you tried shims? Pictures might help people see the problem and offer ideas. Welding should not be necessary, but it is a little tedious to get the pieces lined up and the transitions working smoothly.

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FWIW - another method I've seen is to drill a 'hole' exactly centered at the joint between the sections

Half the hole in each section - of course the sections need be exactly aliged before hand

Then inset a screw/machine-screw through the hole into the mast. This at least stops sideways misalignment.

HTH,

TomH

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FWIW - another method I've seen is to drill a 'hole' exactly centered at the joint between the sections

Half the hole in each section - of course the sections need be exactly aliged before hand

Then inset a screw/machine-screw through the hole into the mast. This at least stops sideways misalignment.

HTH,

TomH

Yeah, but . . . I believe the OP has multi piece masts w/tracks so he is assembling same to rig, so a screw, albeit a great idea, isn't workable in that situation. I'd go for well rounded edges and maybe better "keying" of the mast parts to keep it all aligned.

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Quite often with the stamped steel tracks, the height of the track varies slightly from piece to piece. It's important to vertically align them, but also to insure the height off the mast, is the same at the transition between the two sections. Rounding corners is a logical thing, but for naught if the lips also don't align. Look carefully at these lips (the little wings of the track) and insure they are the same height.

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Quite often with the stamped steel tracks, the height of the track varies slightly from piece to piece. It's important to vertically align them, but also to insure the height off the mast, is the same at the transition between the two sections. Rounding corners is a logical thing, but for naught if the lips also don't align. Look carefully at these lips (the little wings of the track) and insure they are the same height.

Yeah, maybe I should have been more explicit, but this is why I mentioned shims.

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second rounding the corners. I have metal exterior track on three masts, and it works slick. Once the corners are well rounded, no snags at all.

Would I need to pop the tracks off the mast to smooth the corners?

Any issues with the slugs on the sails needing to be smoothed out on the edges?

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There is another issue that no one has mentioned; the track is cut to width in a shear and the edges are sharp. It is necessary to file the edges of the track and make them smooth, especially the under side. Apply a little dry lube or some wax and it will slide much better.

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Anyone have a picture of what properly rounded track ends look like?

No photos, but just a few quick licks with a file will do the job. EDGE rounding, and maybe a touch on the corners just for pretty, and as Graham mentioned, a few strokes on the backside edge where the metal sail thingies slide. Say 1/16" radius would give you a 1/8" circle = way thicker than the stainless track, so you're looking for maybe a 1/32" radius on the ends, or less. Just a few licks with a file to break the sharp edge.

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Pop rivets? Most of those have steel mandrels so you might want to try shaking them out - steel v aluminum eek! I have all aluminum pop rivets left over from a rebuild of my aluminum `87 Starcraft and could send you a mess if you need them. wjhuson43@gmail.com

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Stainless steel rivets are the usual choice. You can isolate them with an inert washer if you like. Nut inserts, which are a fancy rivet with threads inside are also an option, again stainless, because you can't get an aluminum rivet in the size necessary, with the strength needed.

Aluminum rivets I have are 3/16" and strong enough to keep stuff tacked in place on a twisty runabout that exceeds 50 MPH.

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