Hirilonde Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 The painter through the stem is actually extremely clever. When used as a tender, which many Spindrifts are used for, it means there is no hardware on the bow to bash up the topsides of the boat it is tender to. I used holes in the quarter knees to attach my stern painter and traveller. No need to buy hardware when a simple hole works just fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted January 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 Do you think that it will hold up to towing all day? I'm guessing a figure eight knot? Take care, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Burritt Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 A line thru the stem works just fine. The most common alternative is an eye-bolt - which can gouge the heck out of the side of your big boat if the dink spends the night floating beside it. Fair the seams with microballoons or a similar alternative. West Systems sells a couple different versions - one for below the waterline; the other for locations that stay mostly dry. Neither has much structural strength, but its not needed. You're primarly filling voids before you coat it again. Sorry about the repitition. I missed Hirilonde's response above. I'd say the figure eight should work. All knots that load and unload periodically need to be checked fairly frequently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 Yes, a figure 8 is a good choice, that is what I used. I have towed my 9N hundreds of miles, inspecting the knot occassionally, and have yet to retie it. I am not sure I could untie it now as it is so compressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Luckett Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 I put in a nice eye bolt as that is all I had ever seen used since I was a kid. Carla convinced me that the rope through the hole was a better idea. I plan to alter my Spindrift 12S by removing the eyebolt and also making wooden covers for the chainplates and their respective bolts. I like the idea of holes in the quarter knees. My original plan was some cleats but I just did not like the idea of stumping them with my fingers or toes. The rope and hole method solves all of my concerns. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokeyhydro Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 A line through the stem is my preferred attachment. I drill a 5/8" hole and epoxy a fresh sanded piece of 1/2" CPVC pipe in there, trim flush when epoxy sets, relive the edges a bit = done. I place the hole 3-5 inches above the waterline, depending on the overall stem height. When towing the lower line point won't tend to pull the bow down but will keep her riding right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Jones Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 A line through a hole in the stem is a pretty traditional way of attaching a painter to a dinghy. Nothing particularly lame about it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Luckett Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 A line through a hole in the stem is a pretty traditional way of attaching a painter to a dinghy. Nothing particularly lame about it Who said it was lame, Charlie? Welcome back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Jones Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Steve W did in his questions couple posts back. Of course I came in there, instead of page 2. And thanks. Getting into being at home.. Of course I've put 1000 miles on the jeep since Christmas, going between here and Houston, and back, and there, and back Really strange to sleep in a bed that doesn't move, and when the wind gets up,, I DO wake up to check the anchor Did just under 7000 miles on the trip, 2200 singlehanded. I'd rather have company!! It's gonna take a while to fit back into land living I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted January 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 All right.....a hole for the painter it is. I've never seen it before. I've learned a lot here. Also...microballoons on order. Take Care, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokeyhydro Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 All right.....a hole for the painter it is. I've never seen it before. I've learned a lot here. Also...microballoons on order. Take Care, Steve On order? Darn. I was going to suggest Aircraft Spruce Supply - yes, a plane place but they have great prices on microballoons (3M Bubbles), fumed silica, flock, and other stuff we use in quantity. Also I print out their WEST price sheet and use it at West Marine to get the price match deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Burritt Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 hokeyhydro - Where is Aircraft Spruce Supply? Local? on line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Potts Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted February 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 1. Any reason you have to sart at the bow. It sure would be easier for me to start in the stern. 2. Walnut shells? Grind my own? Take Care, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Luckett Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 I started at the bow on the Spindrift but only because that was the sharpest bend and I did not want scarfed joints on the outer strips until toward the stern. I did the oppisite on the inner strips due to the way the strips pushed themselves together near the bow. I "feel" the wood to decide how to put things together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 It is always better to start bends at the smaller raidius end. This gives you the longer lever arm to start bending at this small radius and when you lever arm is shorter you have an easier bend left to deal with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 The source of the walnut shell I referenced was Hammons: http://www.hammonsproducts.com/page.asp?p_key=11C0327901AC464D852200F057E1E6B5&ie_key=093275B1163E451EA575A79C8E796C51 I use their 30/100 grit. They sold me a small sample which was plenty. I think you can find something similar on ebay in a 40/100 grit size. I've tried them all and this size seems to be about right as a clamping spacer. The larger stuff is too big, the 100 grit plus, too small. The other product I've used with equal success is a non-skid paint additive from System 3: http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/Non-Skid-Quart-Can-47p190.htm The advantage to these over something like sand or silica is they won't damage the edge of cutting tools you use on the piece after the lamination is finished. The sharp edges of both dig in and bite, and tend to lock the lamination into place so it doesn't wander off on you. With these in the mix.....and it doesn't take much......you can clamp your laminations about as hard as you want and still have an adequate.......almost ideal.......thickness of epoxy left behind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cchilders1 Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 This may be late to be of help to you, but i epoxied white oak spacers on I-beam type cross beams for a Wharram Tiki 21. i sailed it for about 10 years without any delamination problems. Cross beams on a catamaran do undergo a significant amount of stress from hulls that are designed to attach with flexability. i ran into a lock wall one time that split off a piece of Doug Fir from the beam, but the oak stayed solid as I recall. i used West System and bronze fasteners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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