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Curlew too


Hirilonde

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It's a little late if you didn't do this, but rounding off or even tapering the front of the floors is a good idea. The only boat I ever damaged my prototype of the VARDO. We were in some shallow running water (mistake #1) and I hit a rock, it lifted the skin up and it caught on floor board. The impact was hard enough I almost kissed the coaming.

Tore a big gash in the boat skin. Now on that boat the floors were too low and just below the skin. That was a lesson learned! It pinched the fabric between the floor and the rock and something had to give! With the floor mounted so low normal wear and tear would have eventually rubbed a hole anyway. Since then I at least rounded over the leading edge. On a boat with slat floors I usually cut a taper just in case I feel sport and try something like that again. :rolleyes:

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Thanks all, I have been having fun with this.

I rounded the forward and aft ends of the slats. I rounded over the ends of everything actually, I don't like sharp corners anywhere on a boat. Running a straight edge from the keel stringer to the chine stringers shows just under 1/2" gap to the slats. The centers may sag to touching the skin when I am sitting in it, but it would take a good smack to force it to hit the forward end, and then the round over should help a lot.

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I oiled the frame and installed the foot pegs. It took a little creative layout testing to get them where I wanted. I went with an added wooden bracket from the chine stringer to the gunwale at the aft end to get the adjustment handle to clear the frame and simply attached Jeff's bracket to the underside of the gunwale forward to get them as far outboard as possible. It is cozy up there and I wanted them as far apart as possible.

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Then it was time for some sewing. I thought the lashing was fun. It was nothing compared to the sewing. And I haven't even done the whipping of the seam yet.

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Jeff says you can sew an entire kayak in a day "easy" in his videos. He uses that word a lot in those videos Well, it can be done if your fingers last. I found myself running errands in the middle of the day, and I hate errands. The work is not hard, with a little patience it comes out quite well. But if your fingers aren't used to it, they will protest.

Next is whipping then ironing, then painting. I see myself kayaking soon. Oh yeah, I need to make a paddle too.

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Thanks guys.

I used a 9/64" bit for the coaming holes. 1/8" would probably have worked, but 9/64" worked fine. I spaced them 1 1/2" and ended up luckily with an odd number. I used Power Pro microfilament Spectra braided fishing line. It is the size of normal thread like you would use for sewing on a button, but has 50 lb tensile strength. It is hard to cut with a sharp razor knife, though that is a good thing when on the boat. I really like it, though I wish it were white or beige. Hopefully it covers well with paint, I am considering a light color deck. The skin came out with less wrinkles than I expected. I think the shrink process will yield a nice smooth taught skin. I just followed Jeff's instructions in his 3 videos on line. When in doubt, read (or watch) the instructions.

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Moving right along aren't ya.

.

On mine I was thinking of mounting the foot rests between the frames, their is just enough space...

On the top of the foot pedal their is a hole I think it could be used for a piece of bungee to pull the peg back toward the lever when it is released that way you don't have to put you're foot in-behind the peg to adjust it back toward you..Just an observation..

So you used 50lb. test line for the thread...Bass Pro has 100 yrd spools for $13.green or yellow though..I'm sure the paint will cover it..

Where would you go paddle in the winter?

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Not to say there is anything wrong with this, but I just wanted to point out the the frame spacing is designed so that the footrest will fit between the frames. I mount mine all the way forward mounting the brackets on the stringer front and rear without and additional blocks. I have found that leaves plenty of adjustment and keeps them as close to the skin as possible.

Reaching the adjustment rod isn't as hard as it looks. It is slightly behind the frame but if you reach for right side with you left hand it's no problem. If your new to kayaking you would want to make adjustments with the boat sitting on the ground or in water on the bottom.

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woodman: Thanks for the heads up on the bungee chord detail. I didn't even notice and there are no pieces or instructions with the foot pegs. The line is braided, so even though it is a slickery new high tech plastic I think the paint will hold fine. We will see soon enough. I don't think I will be doing any long paddles, but Ninigret Pond is very protected and I can play near shore in shallow water. I am a good swimmer, but not sure I want to risk exposure more than a minute or 2 walk from shore this time of year. Of course, by the time I actually finish, and it dawned on me a paddle will take a little time, it may be iced over.

Jeff: Thanks, the seams did come out pretty straight, still need to whip them to know for sure how they will look. Well, like all things in my kayak I based the footpeg location on your instructions about measuring. I took my wife who is barely 5'-0" and had her sit against a door and measured to her feet. I then subtracted 2 inches to allow bending at the knees and considered this to be the shortest the pegs would need to be located. Based on this I ended up where I did. Now that they are in and I have tested on the ground with my wife and myself it seems that between the frames would have worked, my 2" further aft was probably not necessary.

Well, back to whipping the seam and off to buy paint.

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On the top of the foot pedal their is a hole I think it could be used for a piece of bungee to pull the peg back toward the lever when it is released that way you don't have to put you're foot in-behind the peg to adjust it back toward you..Just an observation..

Interesting idea. I have always assumed that hole was for the the rudder controlling model of the footrest. You don't adjust your footrest all the often but I do let a lot of people try my boats so I may try that. But I bet it's going to be a pain to do on an existing boat.

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On the top of the foot pedal their is a hole I think it could be used for a piece of bungee to pull the peg back toward the lever when it is released that way you don't have to put you're foot in-behind the peg to adjust it back toward you..Just an observation..

Interesting idea. I have always assumed that hole was for the the rudder controlling model of the footrest. You don't adjust your footrest all the often but I do let a lot of people try my boats so I may try that. But I bet it's going to be a pain to do on an existing boat.

I figure a little Eye hook into the frame would do.. just need to crimp an electrical ring terminal on one end of the bungee...and a knot on the foot peg end...

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There is a hole in the footpeg frame at the aft end on top that lines up with the hole in the peg itself. Shouldn't have to drill any holes. Tie an over hand knot (figure 8 would come out unnecessarily large) run it through the hole in the peg from fore to aft, then run it through the hole in the frame and tie another over hand knot. You will probably have to play with sliding the peg back and forth and adjusing the knot to get the length right. It needs to pull the peg aft at least most of the way, yet be able to move forward all the way without over stretching the bungee.

Oh well, not on the top of my list of things to do yet. ;)

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The seams are whipped and the deck is painted:

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I wanted to take it outside between ironing out the wrinkles and painting but it was pouring rain. I did 3 coats of paint on the deck, letting it go to dry to the touch but still green between coats. Now it will sit for at least 24 hours before masking to do the hull.

In the mean time I will build a paddle. I found this Greenland Paddle Site doing a Google search and it has pretty good instructions on measuring out a custom paddle to fit the person. I am off to get another piece of Alaskan Yellow Cedar. I can get in in nominal 2X4 which is exactly what the plans call for.

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Let me give you advice on masking tape. I have had a hard time finding anything that sticks well to the boat. I think it is because of the texture of the fabric so it actually has a small contact area. So you need something pretty sticky. Blue painters tape was awful!

At my local Sherwin Williams I found 3M high adhesion masking tape. I can't remember the number on it (9600 ??) but it works and works extremely well! I always go back over it and make sure that it is pressed down firmly to the boat but I have never had paint seep under the tape if I did that. Hardest part is the ends.

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