Gordy Hill Posted September 4, 2012 Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 Opps! I responded to the wrong page! I'm a couple months late. ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................never mind........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cprinos Posted September 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 Opps! I responded to the wrong page! I'm a couple months late. ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................never mind........... Ha... no problem Gordy. I had to go back and look to see what I wrote, couldn't remember if I did actually use a jig saw or not for the big panels. Your right the circ saw probably would have been quicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 Don't know if my experience is unique, but my jigsaw.......a Bosch.....doesn't cut square. Neither did the cheap Black and Decker it replaced. Does OK on thin plywood, but put a stack together or use thicker stock like a 3/4" board, and the cut edge comes out beveled. Circular saw set shallow can make most gentle curves and along with a square cut edge, is easier to follow a cut line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cprinos Posted September 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 I fit the laminated deck beam into place Then I started milling some more pieces for framing the seats, king plank (not shown), and the aft bulkhead beam (below). One thing that has been bugging me for a bit is that I had left the transom untrimmed at the top, which made it kind of hard to properly visualize how that end of the boat was going to shape up. i had been putting it off because I've built a curved transom which complicated transferring the curve of the decking. Today I went ahead and traced the deck beam curves onto a scrap piece of 4mm and then used that to help transfer curve onto the transom. With the top of the transom trimmed, it is easier to see the effect of the transom curve, especially in comparison to the [flat] aft bulkhead. When I first did the transom curve I was worried that it was too subtle to even be noticeable, but now that it's trimmed I think it will provide a nice shape aft. In addition to the curve, there is a couple of additional degrees of rake that I'll have to take into account when working on the rudder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Chris, Your curved transom is really handsome, I like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cprinos Posted September 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Thanks Graham, I appreciate it. It's been a fun build so far, there havent' been too many head-scratchers that your plans have not answered in one of the sheets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 I have seen a lot of home builder modifications done to boats and in most cases I think they were bad ideas. This one probably does absolutely nothing to alter performance and it just plain looks good. Will it be finished bright? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wkisting Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 I like the transom too. When I first built the CS20, I gave a lot of thought to modifying it to a round transom. I've always thought the round-transom classic sharpies, like the New Haven Sharpie, look very handsome. I ended up not messing with it, which turned out to be wise since it wouldn't have fit in my garage. But I think this looks good. I'll be anxious to see it when it's all finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 I did a bright (mahogany faced) curved transom on a CS-17 a few years ago. I also increased the transom rake a few degrees to attenuate the change. You're right you'll need to make some changes to the rudderhead, but it's not hard. Draw up a full size mockup of the new transom angle and adjust the forward face of the ruddehead to accommodate the new angle. Rudderhead head angle changes clearly visible in the image below. A little painting trick to make it look right is to simulate planking thickness along the edge, which you can see in the first image as a blue(ish) stripe, along the post side. In this photo, I did the same with the bottom planks, later elected to bring the bottom paint (white) around (leveled), which covered the lower few inches of the transom. You might also notice there's no aft bulkhead, which has been replaced with a removable seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cprinos Posted September 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 PAR gets the credit for convincing me to give the curved transom a shot with some simple instructions and pictures he sent me last year. I think I am going to try to finish it bright--when I cut out the ply I tried to select a section of the sheet with a nice grain pattern. It's mostly horizontal oriented grain without too much of the rotary cut appearance. PAR mentions a faced veneer; I thought about that too for a flat sawn look but not sure I will go to the trouble. Painting along the edge as suggested sounds like a good idea when the time comes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 I took the extra step of gluing 1/2" wide strips to the edges of the transom and fairing in the sides. I set the veneers inside these strips, which made a natural "seam", and a more convincing look. The strips were just about the same thickness as the veneers, so it looked right. Yours looks good, keep up the great work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cprinos Posted September 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2012 Question for any of you that put in a second set of oarlocks... where did you position them? As I'm adding the deck framing, I will reinforce for the standard oar lock position, but I'm thinking I'm rarely going to use that set (the main mast will be in the thwart) and was thinking about doing another set further forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wkisting Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 If I were adding a second set, I think I'd position them a few inches forward of the mizzen mast. (You'll need to sit in the boat and "mime" the mostions of rowing to get a clear sense of where you could place them to avoid interference from hardware, etc.). Then I would make a seat that fits over the centerboard case to sit on while rowing. At present, I have mine located per plans, but since I don't have anywhere to move the mizzen, it means I have to stand and row facing forward. That works fine, and usually I just row on one side with a single oar and the rudder. But if I were rowing any real distance, I would prefer to be sitting over the keel line (on the CB case) with more room to row comfortably, and in the traditional aft-facing position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cprinos Posted September 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Thanks Wes. A seat over the centerboard is an interesting idea-- could probably figure a way to stow that under the forward deck too. Based on what you say I'll wait on the oar lock blocking until I can get in the boat and test out a few spots. Actually I wonder at what stage you guys started working "in" the boat instead of outside reaching in. Structurally I would guess its all right to do so at this point, but I probably won't push my luck on the strong back setup. I continue to slowly poke along with some of the interior, deck, and seat framing. I may get to fitting the seat side panels this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cprinos Posted September 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 moving through some of the framing, here is what the aft deck section is looking like. The fillets were cell-o-fil only, no wood flour. They sagged on me as I didn't quite get them thick enough, but the deck top will hide all that in good time. I don't often have the boat half-way out of the garage, so it allowed me to get a shot of the bow as well (it's usually up against the wall): Instead of working on the side deck framing, I decided to start fitting the seat tops and sides. At first I was going to see if I could try to hold a partial sheet in place to scribe the fit--not really practical. Then I thought about hot gluing some thin battens to form a template (now where did that hot glue gun go?). In the end I marked of two foot intervals on the seat edge frame, then used a story stick to get the heights at each position. I transfered these to the full size ply sheets and then used my long batten to connect the dots. This worked pretty well, only some minor trimming with a block plane. I'm not finished yet, but here are a couple of initial pieces, the starboard aft seat side, and the port aft seat top. And overall progress so far: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cprinos Posted September 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2012 Recent work has been scribing, trimming, and fitting the various top and side panels for the seats. Slowly working through my stock of full ply sheets, the remaining ones will be for the decks. Here is the forward section -- the center overlap was used to mark the cut. and then that was trimmed to the line for the final fit. The front part of the seat sides has a smaller panel. Shown below, I'm placing one for the final scribing. Instead of making a template from scratch for the starboard side, I decided to see how close the port side would be to a good fit. In theory they should be the same, but I was expecting some differences to have crept into the build.... to my surprise the panel fit both locations exactly, so I used it as a pattern for it's sibling panel. plans call for a squared opening at the forward section of the seats, but I will put a bit of curve in the corner. Final trimming for this part is going to wait until I am further along and fitting the centerboard trunk in place. After dry-fitting all of the seat panels, I had some more time, but not enough to do a full glue-up of any seat pieces, so I started playing with positioning of the side deck carlin. I'm still not sure I've got the curve I want here, I'll continue to fiddle a bit. One thing I think I will do is give the side decks a wee bit more width for hiking, but will balance it against eating up too much of seating space Today I whipped up some thickened epoxy for the glue up of one set of side panels. It was raining & cool here today... I did a 50/50 mix of slow & fast hardener for this one. The glue up took nearly my full compliment of clamps, so that will have to be all for now. Once that firms up a bit, I'll move to starboard seats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Anderson Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Looking very nice. You could be a contender in the who built the boat with the fewest number of clamps contest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecgossett Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 looks nice... I like the pipe clamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cprinos Posted October 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 those PVC pipe clamps a pretty good in the bang-for-your-buck department. These things on the other hand: are almost useless. The jaws flex so much and have such large ratchets, you can't control clamping pressure, and when there closed you can never quickly tell which way the quick release trigger goes. I do love the Irwin one-handed bar clamps/spreaders (have 'em in all sizes), but wouldn't by any more of these handi-clamps. I don't know if the metal ones are any better, but am no rush to try based on what I've seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cprinos Posted October 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 folks --- I'm working on the seat tank interiors: taping the inside & sealing the wood. Looking at the plans, I just realized I didn't put in the seat drain that goes near the seat's bulkhead. I'm wondering how effective these drains are? Anyone done w/o them and regretted due to pooling on the seat tops? I can still put them in, just trying to figure out if it's something worth bothering with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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