wkisting Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 I did 6 oz. on the bottom and sides of the hull, overlapping at the chine so that there is actually a double layer of 6 oz. covering the chine and about 3" to either side of it. I did 4 oz. on the deck. In my experience, Okoume is fairly soft and prone to indentations or scarring, but this is considerably reduced by a layer of 'glass (merely epoxy saturating the Okoume helps, but adding a layer of 'glass is noticeably more dent resistant). The 4 oz. was plenty to make the deck nice and scuff resistant, yet still easy and attractive to finish bright/varnished with no weave showing. The 6 oz. on the hull has stood up to abuse nicely. The chines and keel take the brunt of the abuse, so I'm glad I doubled/overlapped the 'glass at the chines (we used a protective strip of stainless on the keel). That's the layup I recommend on our experience, but as others have noted, you don't technically need to use 'glass at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twetmore Posted March 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 I haven't updated in a while so I thought I would upload some pictures for everyone. Hope you enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokeyhydro Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 Nice work. Very clean. Questions about the birdsmouth mast - are you going all the way with wood? If so, are you tapering the mast? If tapering how do you plan to do that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twetmore Posted March 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 I used wood the entire way and actually I built the mast this last weekend. I used some really nice 2x material that I found at the lumber yard and let it dry inside for almost 8 months. I ripped the 2x down to 3/4" strips which gave me a 1-3/4"x3/4" strip which is pretty close to what the plans call for. Then I used an 8 sided birdsmouth router bit to birds mouth one side of each rip. Finally, I setup a jib for my table saw to rip the taper of 3/4" at the top down to 1-3/4" at the bottom 6' per the plans on the non-birdsmouth side. The jig was just a 2x6 set tight against the fence and blade and nailing the rips onto a pre-marked angle so that all were uniform. Finally, I put glue on all birdsmouths, fit 4-5 pieces together, inserted the blocking, and slipped the last couple of pieces together. Then I used some nylon webbing straps as tourniquets to pull the mast tight together and taped it with re-enforced parking tape. Pulling the mast together really takes 3-4 guys to do it right as well as many of the other tasks since the wood is so long. I chose to use gorilla glue as a dark resin glue was recommended on several different websites that I looked at. I am comfortable with gorilla glue, it is waterproof, and it has greater strength then the wood, as does epoxy. I could not believe how easy this whole process turned out to be in the end and would definitely recommend it to others. Then again, I still have to sand the mast smooth and we will have to see how they hold up. I haven't been home since the masts have been completed so I will post some pictures next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Stumpf Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 Very Nice ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokeyhydro Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Thanks for birdsmouth info. I built a 22' birdsmouth mast but only tapered, after glue-up, the top 7 or 8'. Did that with a plane. I considered your method, set-up jig on table saw, for my next couple masts. Also considered a clamp/jig gizmo to run several staves at once through my surface planer to shave the taper, or just go old school and plane the taper with a hand plane. Have to think on it and sketch a bit. I rolled up the 22' mast myself. Arraigned all the staves edge-to-edge on duct tape strips spaced about 6' apart, slobbered WEST epoxy on them, then filled WEST on glue edges. Near the middle I rolled the staves up in a bundle and they all seemed to click into place. Duct tape sorta held in it together while I took a few breaths, then I used cable ties (Zip ties)every few inches to clamp `er up. Cleaned as much goo off the outside as I could and let it cure. The staves were 14mm X 28mm which produced a mast about 70mm Diam. It is a stayed mast, unlike the free standing Core Sound masts, so I just thinned the upper section to get a taper. So far the rig has survived a 20+ knot blow when it got caught in a pre-storm wind burst. The little Catamaran was hauling tail in that blow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twetmore Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 I finished my mast this weekend with varnish. While I had them up on the horses I saw that one mast seems to have a little more flex than the other even though they were built to the same specs. The one which is more flexible was made out of douglas fir heartwood which was about 1/16" larger than the other board which was sap wood. Does anyone have an opinion as to which mast should be the main and which should be the mizzen? I made both masts the same length with the same blocking so that I could select when they were finished. I will cut them down to length once I decided which will go where. Thanks, Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twetmore Posted May 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 If I want to varnish over epoxy for the UV protection, do I need to use a two part varnish? Does anyone know of a one part vanish that would work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 If I want to varnish over epoxy for the UV protection, do I need to use a two part varnish? Does anyone know of a one part vanish that would work? You will get many arguments, err, discussions about what is best to use. Just about any good natural varnish or 1 part clear coat (polyurethane) or 2 part (LPU) etc. should adhere well if you prep properly. No matter what you use you will have a secondary or mechanical bond of the "varnish" to the epoxy. You need to scuff up the epoxy to give it tooth for this bond and clean it well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Burritt Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 I've had good luck w/ spar varnish. Apply the epoxy until it looks like a good varnish job - seals the wood. Then likey sand and apply multiple coats of varnish. I've found that the varnish lasts longer w/out recoating, probably because the sealed wood isn't moving & breathing as much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twetmore Posted May 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 So I framed in the decks last weekend and at the aft I put the hatch in the center thinking it would be easier to access things. It just dawned on me that it is laid out to the side because it will conflict with the rudder...I will have to reframe the area. Also, I would appreciate any input from anyone that you might have on my mast question about the flex. Thanks, Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterP Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 Tom, shorter equals stiffer - I would cut the bendier one down to mizzen size. Chances are you will have the same bend in both of them at the end of the day. PeterP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordy Hill Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 I'd suggest you consider not re-framing. I attached my tiller to the rudder with a large stainless bolt and wing nut. When trailering the rudder and tiller were always in the car. I could stand up and steer and when at anchor or at the dock I'd put the tiller straight up and it would be out of the way and leave the entire cockpit open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 I attached my tiller to the rudder with a large stainless bolt and wing nut. ........ I could stand up and steer and when at anchor or at the dock I'd put the tiller straight up and it would be out of the way and leave the entire cockpit open. I did that on my Spindrift as well. It also allows me to tack and pass the tiller over me and not have to move forward. There are lots of reason why this is a clever idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twetmore Posted June 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 I thought I would update everyone with my progress for anyone that is interested. I have finished all of the deck framing and just need to seal the wood with epoxy and sand some fillets, then I am on to installing the deck. I think I have decided to use 4 ounce fabric on the decks and seats similar to Wes for abrasion resistance so that will add a little more time. With my wedding coming up and August and my project coming to the finish line, I have not had as much time to work on my boat as I would like and have been meaning to post some more pictures. I have a couple of questions or things that I would appreciate comments on if anyone has experience: 1. For the last 4-5 months I have been trying to figure out a way to mount my outboard on the transom in an inexpensive way. I was going to try and custom build something similar to Wes's setup but I don't think I have resources to make a bracket I am comfortable with. I finally decided I am going to go with a Garelick adjustable bracket Garelick 9" Adjustable Outboard Bracket. It is expensive...the problem that I am having is that even thought I have a long shaft motor, the depth is not enough to allow me to tilt the motor up when not in use and keep the cavatation plate below the water line when in use. This bracket achieves this and would allow for adjustment based on how much weight I have in the boat. Before I purchase it though, I would appreciate any input. 2. Trailer! I have been trying to figure out a trailer for this boat for a while. I know that there are a lot of posts out there which I have been reading. It is an odd boat to trailer because of the size to weight ratio, it seems that many people just deflate the tires a bit to make up for the low weight which I am fine with. I have been searching on craigslist constantly and contacting local marinas without much luck but will keep trying. I was wondering if anyone knows if there are regulations for the length of the trailer versus the lenght of the boat, I have a feeling that if varies from state to state but would appreciate any input. Has anyone recently purchased a newer model that works well that I could look at for reference? 3. Finally, I am looking at ordering navagational lights. I was wondering if anyone had any input on bow and aft lights. I want LED to minimize power loss. Do people typically mount them on the deck or on the hull at the bow? Thanks, Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokeyhydro Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Check with wkisting about OB mount. I seem to recall he built a cool plug-in bracket for his. You need to check with Illinois for trailer regs. In NC where I live methinks you can have a 4' overhang to the rear and if it is longer you need to hang a red flag on the aftmost part. My daughter's 14 wood catamaran is close. I put that on the smallest trailer EZ Load builds. Boat and mast hang out 4' and and the mast hangs over the tow vehicle. Only comment from highway patrol is "Cool Boat!" They haven't noticed the not-legal lights. I need to move to front clearance lights out, replace the tail lights with "over 80" wide" approved lights, and add a 3 light bar in the middle of the back trailer frame. P.S. my trailer lighting is because the trailer is more than 80" wide. like about 88". Your boat on trailer may not be that wide and you can use standard lights. Check USCG regs for proper nav light mounting. Sailboats are not exactly like power boats, and the positioning depends on the size of the boat. BTW - LED lamps kick butt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter HK Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 I finally decided I am going to go with a Garelick adjustable bracket Garelick 9" Adjustable Outboard Bracket. It is expensive...the problem that I am having is that even thought I have a long shaft motor, the depth is not enough to allow me to tilt the motor up when not in use and keep the cavatation plate below the water line when in use. This bracket achieves this and would allow for adjustment based on how much weight I have in the boat. Before I purchase it though, I would appreciate any input. I used a similar bracket on mine (an Italian brand available here in Australia) that is quite like the garelick one labelled for 2 stroke 20 hp motors. It's cheaper and more than adequate for the job. The multiple adjustments means that you can motor in rough conditions without ventilation, you can motor in very shallow water and you can get the motor well out of the water when you want. Another advantage is that you can have the motor tilted and far enough behind the transom that the mizzen sheets don't catch on it in a jibe. Given the choice I would do it the same way again, as it does work very well. Cheers Peter HK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter HK Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 One other thing to add to my previous post and the only slightly irritating thing is that my bracket is designed for an outboard up to 15 hp and 35 kgs. As my 2hp yamaha only weighs 10 kgs I find I have to push it down quite firmly when I want to put it all the way down as the springs are designed for a heavier motor. A bracket designed for a lighter motor would work a little more smoothly...so try to match any bracket with the size/weight of your motor. Cheers Peter HK 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Hagan Posted June 30, 2011 Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 One other thing to add to my previous post and the only slightly irritating thing is that my bracket is designed for an outboard up to 15 hp and 35 kgs. As my 2hp yamaha only weighs 10 kgs I find I have to push it down quite firmly when I want to put it all the way down as the springs are designed for a heavier motor. A bracket designed for a lighter motor would work a little more smoothly...so try to match any bracket with the size/weight of your motor. Cheers Peter HK I read somewhere ... and now I can't find it .. that you can put the springs upside down on the Garlick and reduce the force needed to lower it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twetmore Posted July 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2011 All, Thanks for your input. I think I am going to go with the Garelick motor mount, it seems to be the easiest solution with a pretty good product. Peter - I am trying to get the smallest one possible which will hold my motor, the problem I have is that I got a great deal on a brand new Tihatsu 4hp four stroke outboard. I am not sure why but there is a difference in the rating of the brackets for a 2 stroke and 4 stroke which really beefs it up. I will have to look into Frank's comment about reversing the springs if it ends up being to difficult to get to the lower positions. Hokeyhydro - Thanks for the trailer info. USCG has a lot of good information that I have been looking for and I think I have a better idea on trailers now. I am still hoping to find a used trailer for the next couple of years and maybe upgrade to a new one after that, new trailers are a lot more expensive than I was hoping. I agree, Wes's bracket is nice, not sure that I have the reasources to make something like that though, welding stainless steel is out of my area of expertise, I remember reading somewhere that he had a family member do it for him or with him. I figure by the time I find someone that can do it and pay them I will go over the price of a commercial bracket. Good thoughts though. Thanks, Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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