Docpal Posted June 28, 2008 Report Share Posted June 28, 2008 I've finally had a chance to get started on Petunia, and as promised earlier I will try to post some of the "mods" I am attempting as I go along. Here are two quick shots of my first "tangent"from the standard design. I had some carbon fiber tape on hand from an earlier project and thought "now that would really beef up her strength, and not add any appreciable weight", so I sandwiched a layer of 3"wide 11 oz. unidirectional CF tape between the two layers of 10 oz. tape that Graham had provided. It's neither cheap, or overly expensive ( $4.40 a linear yd. from US Composites...) but it sure adds rigidity to the chines! Total weight to do the full chines on both sides added 12 oz. in all so I don't worry about the added weight. I will also be running a strip of 4" wide CF tape down the keel as well to beef up her "backbone"under the keel batten as well. I almost considered just using a few layers of the 4"tape in place of the keel batten, with only a section of wood near the center board case,but thought that I shouldn't stray too far from what's worked in the past.... I think another benefit will also be the extra strength at the bow when I have the 4"tape crossing the 3"chine pieces. There will be a backing chunk of purple heart glopped into this "crossroad" to further spread the load of the bow eye. More to follow as I move along in the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Docpal Posted June 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2008 I will contact Frank and try to find out WHY all of my posts have double pix in them, sorry ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Potts Posted June 29, 2008 Report Share Posted June 29, 2008 Thanks for the pics Docpal. Looking good - Keep us updated on your progress. I always love to watch a Core Sound (okay, any boat) come together. ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Lathrop Posted June 29, 2008 Report Share Posted June 29, 2008 The unidirectional CF will be a much better fit for mast and sprits. I guess I don't see how uni CF tape can either add rigidity or strength to the chine. On a flat surface, uni CF can add rigidity, but the chine is already plenty rigid and glass tape is more than adequate for that job. Not going to hurt anything but I think it's just superfluous in this application. Looks like a good job and I'm sure you will have a very good boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Docpal Posted July 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 Can't believe it's been two years since I added to this thread...I have been splitting my time between trying to get my New Jersey garage warm enough in the Winter, (and cool enough this Summer) to make more headway on Petunia. It also hasn't helped that I have also been building a cabin in the Mendocino mountains at the same time...The commute is a bear...but the cabin is almost finished, (I'll get the solar system connected in a few weeks)..... I hope to finally finish glassing the hull this afternoon. I'm going to try and maximize my time here and do as much on her bottom as I can before she gets flipped back upright again. After coating the centerboard trunk, (and board itself with) the epoxy/graphite powder mix, I'd like to consider doing her bottom the same way. My real question is this; if I DO go with the graphite initially, can I at some later point in time paint OVER that finish with an anti fouling paint? Or will the graphite need to be barrier coated in some way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Docpal Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Here's a quick shot ( too cold to open the garage door today...) of her bottom with three coats of the epoxy/graphite mix rolled on. I like the feel of the finish. Almost like an HDPE/UHMW surface.....When/if it warms up again I'm hoping to turn her back upright and get cracking on the interior... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokeyhydro Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Tom is right - as usual. Uni tape on the chines does very little. As for coating the bottom with graphite I do believe paint will stick since the coating is 90% or more WEST resin (or whatever resin). Some report more speed (measured in micro-knots?) after coating centerboards with graphite, but I shall remain skeptical. I have coated the running surface of a stock outboard hydroplane with graphite, but that was "gamesmanship" to make my fellow racers fidgety. hee hee. And the last EC-12 R/C model racing yacht I built had graphite on the hull. Again, gamesmanship, plus it looked kind of cool. If you leave the bottom black don't flip boat upside down in the sun - heat will not be kind to the finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Docpal Posted July 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 Tom is right - as usual. Uni tape on the chines does very little. As for coating the bottom with graphite I do believe paint will stick since the coating is 90% or more WEST resin (or whatever resin). Some report more speed (measured in micro-knots?) after coating centerboards with graphite, but I shall remain skeptical. I have coated the running surface of a stock outboard hydroplane with graphite, but that was "gamesmanship" to make my fellow racers fidgety. hee hee. And the last EC-12 R/C model racing yacht I built had graphite on the hull. Again, gamesmanship, plus it looked kind of cool. If you leave the bottom black don't flip boat upside down in the sun - heat will not be kind to the finish. OK, She's moving along surely but slowly.....I'm still commuting between the soon to be dried in California cabin, and my NJ garage where Petunia is making some long overdue headway ! I'll attach one shot of where she sits in the total build. The "bulkhead" you see there is not her final shape, that's still a constant source of anxiety as I change my mind every time I look at her. My question today is about one of the steps I feel the least confident in; setting the mast step to the proper angle. I will also attach an idea I'm working on, and I'd appreciate any thoughts as to whether or not this is any better, easier,OR even as accurate as running a string from bow to transom, and dropping the plum bob etc. As you'll see I have the boat in her 'level' orientation( bow 10"higher than the side of the transom, etc.), as well as side to side on her cradle. I'm thinking if I can establish a "true" level and then use my digital protractor to get the 3 degree rake I should be pretty close. Obviously my nightmare scenario is doing this to the mast tube, and mizzen step only to have the mast heads glaringly off. Another question is regarding how the mast "lands"on the step itself. Due to some major mental malfunction in the recent heat wave I cut down my original step much too far. So I'm currently using it as a "dummy" to create a final pattern for the REAL one. WHERE does the mast land on this step? Looking at the plans it seems to land aft of center, is that correct, or would anywhere I get the true angle be sufficient with enough glop/tape ? As you can see from the last shot the current one has it landing closer to the bow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecgossett Posted July 27, 2011 Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 OK, She's moving along surely but slowly.....I'm still commuting between the soon to be dried in California cabin, and my NJ garage where Petunia is making some long overdue headway ! I'll attach one shot of where she sits in the total build. The "bulkhead" you see there is not her final shape, that's still a constant source of anxiety as I change my mind every time I look at her. My question today is about one of the steps I feel the least confident in; setting the mast step to the proper angle. I will also attach an idea I'm working on, and I'd appreciate any thoughts as to whether or not this is any better, easier,OR even as accurate as running a string from bow to transom, and dropping the plum bob etc. As you'll see I have the boat in her 'level' orientation( bow 10"higher than the side of the transom, etc.), as well as side to side on her cradle. I'm thinking if I can establish a "true" level and then use my digital protractor to get the 3 degree rake I should be pretty close. Obviously my nightmare scenario is doing this to the mast tube, and mizzen step only to have the mast heads glaringly off. Another question is regarding how the mast "lands"on the step itself. Due to some major mental malfunction in the recent heat wave I cut down my original step much too far. So I'm currently using it as a "dummy" to create a final pattern for the REAL one. WHERE does the mast land on this step? Looking at the plans it seems to land aft of center, is that correct, or would anywhere I get the true angle be sufficient with enough glop/tape ? As you can see from the last shot the current one has it landing closer to the bow. On mine I made sure the boat was at the right angle etc. Then installed my framing overhead, the plans give good direction on locating hole for mast. After that I took my fiberglass tube, hung it off the frame using a single clamp to attach. This allowed it to swing, and I used the 20inches to 1inch to figure out the 3 degree angle. I check using a little tool from Lowes that tell angles. My next part was using cardboard underneath and roughing in the platform for the mast tube. I drew lines on sides to make sure I got right angle again without all the trouble. It turned out well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter HK Posted July 27, 2011 Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 WHERE does the mast land on this step? Here's a photo of where it landed on mine. Cheers Peter HK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Docpal Posted July 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 Here's a photo of where it landed on mine. Cheers Peter HK Thanks! That's where I imagined it should land. Time to build a new one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Docpal Posted August 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2013 Been a loooooong time. Lots of 'medical issues' and speed bumps, but I'm back to working on Petunia. Finally got my head wrapped around "3D space"and sorted out the framing for her cabin. Did a test fit on top of the cabin frames with an old piece of Masonite, and it looks like it's going to work... She's got Kevlar chines, and edges on her board and rudder, pool noodles in her masts, 7 cubic feet of foam flotation stashed into compartments, HDPE mast bearings, etc., etc. She's over built,(probably) over weight, and certainly over due, but I'm still shooting for this year's Messabout..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cprinos Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 That's cool, I think you did a nice job with the proportions of that cuddy/cabin. chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Docpal Posted August 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 Chris, Thanks! But as you can imagine, it's opened up many new cans of worms... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 I wonder how many others have stuffed the compartments with foam. I know the ABYS standards for backyard builders would smile on this. but, there are 4 compartments that are relatively closed in aft and side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Docpal Posted August 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 My "inspiration"is actually the British Dinghy Cruising Association which promotes more cruising in small boats than racing- http://www.dinghycruising.org.uk/ They have a list of recommended safety regulations which isn't very different in some ways from the preparation list for Water Tribe events- http://www.dinghycruising.org.uk/pages/safety Having been a marine salvor for a number of years I prefer positive flotation over air when room allows... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenmend Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 I pondered this, I wanted access to all areas for airing out while not in use. So 8'' deck plates are installed,as further insurance I have enough 5 ltr wine bladders that can be inserted then inflated. havn't done the acid test yet (capsize)but have same set up in my decked kayaks and trimaran and it definitly works. MM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Docpal Posted August 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 MM, Yup, I had the SAME thought so I added a deck plate, AND a brass drain in the event I somehow DID get any condensation, etc. in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wkisting Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 Love that cuddy cabin. Our CS20 has so much unused space in the bow compartment that I've often wished we built it with a very low cuddy just large enough for the kids to sit up in and play, or for me to crawl inside and sleep. In fact, I think I could've made it work without reducing the (wonderful) size of the cockpit at all. Looking forward to seeing yours when she's finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Docpal Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 "Lost" most of the Spring due to back issues, but have just dumped the crutches and am back to trying to finish her up this Summer. Finally got the cabin built, and glassed. Used one sheet of 1/8" marine ply for the base layer, and then rolled a layer of 5.7 oz carbon fiber cloth on top of that. Immediately gave the base sheet rigidity. Spread thickened epoxy over the carbon fiber and then laid a second sheet of 1/8"ply on top. Used a gazillion staples (3/8"galvanized) with bamboo skewers to keep them from burying completely onto the plywood. Pulled the staples, faired each layer. The cabin will already hold my weight. All of this will get covered with a top coating of 10 oz cloth. All other deck components have been cut, and glassed. It's just a matter of being able to build up the endurance to keep up the pace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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