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Core Sound 17 #221


Randy C.

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I use the fumed silica (cabosil) for its strength and anti-sag (thixotropic) properties.  When glueing, I either use it by itself or with a bit of wood flour.  For fillets, I usually use it with wood flour added.  I have done fillets with only wood flour but the cabosil adds strength and helps the fillets retain their shape while curing. On areas to be finished bright, I vary the amount of silica with wood flour or sanding dust from different woods to achieve the color I am looking for.  I do like Ray when fairing, mixing silica with microballoons or Q-cells, or I use Quick Fair.

Larry

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Thanks for the info.

you guys really know your stuff. this forum is one of the reasons I am going to build the core sound design.  when I used fillers it was just something to thicken the epoxy and give it shape especially in the mold or plug stage. We very seldom used it on the final product.  So listening to you guys adds a whole new dimension to the materials.  I have never used the wood flour does it work well?  Does it have cosmetic properties?

Thanks

Joel

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Thanks for explaining the difference between all the fillers. I think I will go with the quick fair.

My sons came over today and we got the boat turned over, so I'm ready to start on the bottom. Exciting stuff. It actually feels like I might get finished someday.

Randy

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I usually buy wood flour as well because of its consistency.  That being said, sometimes I can't get the color I want with the store bought stuff.  Using sanding dust from the wood you are working with will usually turn out a lot darker than the wood itself once saturated with epoxy in a glue or fillet mixture.  I find that adding some of the snow white cabosil (or sometimes maple flour)  to the mixture will lighten it allowing you to match the wood better.  If I am catching the dust for the purpose, I usually put a 120 grit belt on my belt sander.  With the finer grit I don't worry about sifting.

Larry

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Dale

Thanks for the info.  Their book is in a free pdf format and I downloaded it.  They also have some good video links to a guy building a stitch and glue boat.  They don't have fillers in their catalog.  I assume that is because they want you to buy their premixed fillet products

Joel

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  • 6 months later...

I haven't posted for a while. I've been working on the boat a little lately. I have the bottom fiberglassed, faired and sanded. I have the keel attached and sanded. I'm getting ready to paint the bottom. I'm having a problem marking the watertline for the bottom paint. The plans say the DWL is 27 3/8" below the bow. At that measurement the aft chine is out of the water. The plans say the DWL at the transom should be 17 3/8", the sides are only 15 1/16" as per plans. Does anyone know the correct measurements?

Thanks,

Randy

P.S. - Will post pictures later.

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  • 1 year later...

OK. Here are a few more. The first is the hull before the stripe was painted. The second is the finished paint job, thanks to my number 3 son. The third is flipping the boat back over, number 1 son and number 3 son. The fourth is back in the cradle ready for interior work. The last is working on the main mast support, with help from my number 2 son.

Randy

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The first and second pictures are of the deck frame. The third is glueing the mast. The fourth is the decking rough cut(not glued yet). The last picture is glueing the seat tops. I have the main mast tube installed in the bow and about ready to put the decking on. I also have the thwart built and ready to go in after I paint the inside. With any luck this thing will get wet this summer.

Randy

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Jim,

I was busy posting and didn't see yours. Thanks for the comments. We're at about the same place, except I started mine almost three years ago. I should be DONE!!! I'm more of a weekend woodworker(you know, projects take about a weekend). I tend to lose interest when they take too long, which is what happened. But, I'm back at it and I WILL finish this thing and hopefully will have splashdown this summer.

Randy

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