Charlie, does this enable you to hoist and turn some of the boats on your own? At least the lighter ones I mean. I expect to need to build a frame work to roll the PS26 and am eye balling a spot in the yard between the shop and the boat barn. If I keep oozing more fencing up higher and thicker, the City may never figure out what I am doing in the side yard for a couple of years....LOL.
25 replies to this topic
#22
Oyster
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Posted 18 December 2007 - 06:15 AM
I have a simular setup with two chain falls from ceiling joices. I actually use a line with a spreader bar across the rails thats notched to keep the line in place and use a hook with a roller installed on it to the chain fall and let the line roll in a circle as the boat rolls over. This is a bit tricky as it rolls. But it can accomplished by one guy with a bit of care.Charlie, does this enable you to hoist and turn some of the boats on your own? At least the lighter ones I mean. I expect to need to build a frame work to roll the PS26 and am eye balling a spot in the yard between the shop and the boat barn. If I keep oozing more fencing up higher and thicker, the City may never figure out what I am doing in the side yard for a couple of years....LOL.
#23
Charlie Jones
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Posted 18 December 2007 - 06:51 AM
Yeah Greg- I used this method to turn the Princess 22 ( I had help there) the Core Sound 17 and the 20. I can do it by myself, but it's a little less traumatic to have someone else there assisting.
I use a block hanging from each chainfall, with a continuous line rove through. Hoist the boat, spin it in the lines and set it back down. In the pic of the 20 I'm posting you can't see it, but there are a pair of temporary cross braces just under the inwales to keep the lines from compressing the boat. I also set them up at a bulkhead
First picture is the boat ( this is the 20) hanging in the slings, ready to go.
In the second picture the boat is almost over. If I had been by myself I would have had some holdbacks on the opposite side so I could control the rate of turn. It can get quick if you aren't ready for it, particularly when going from upside down to right side up. Note the packing blankets under the gun'nel. Those are there so we could slide the boat over so it would come down centered. Had to make sure it spun in place, since that part of the shop is narrow.
On the 17 I was able to balance the boat using a single line. I had a lot more room to turn in. Started it in my old shop and finished in the new. In this shot you can clearly see the extra cross bracing I put in to hold boat shape during the turn. I did this one with no assistance.
I use a block hanging from each chainfall, with a continuous line rove through. Hoist the boat, spin it in the lines and set it back down. In the pic of the 20 I'm posting you can't see it, but there are a pair of temporary cross braces just under the inwales to keep the lines from compressing the boat. I also set them up at a bulkhead
First picture is the boat ( this is the 20) hanging in the slings, ready to go.
In the second picture the boat is almost over. If I had been by myself I would have had some holdbacks on the opposite side so I could control the rate of turn. It can get quick if you aren't ready for it, particularly when going from upside down to right side up. Note the packing blankets under the gun'nel. Those are there so we could slide the boat over so it would come down centered. Had to make sure it spun in place, since that part of the shop is narrow.
On the 17 I was able to balance the boat using a single line. I had a lot more room to turn in. Started it in my old shop and finished in the new. In this shot you can clearly see the extra cross bracing I put in to hold boat shape during the turn. I did this one with no assistance.
#24
Greg Luckett
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Posted 18 December 2007 - 10:00 AM
Charlie, thanks for the pics and explaination. This looks good to me and should work nicely. You built Travess's, Pilgrim at your old shop. Were you able to turn her inside or did you use a frame work outside? I think you talked about this before but I cannot recall the details. The PS26 will be way too big for my little shop thus I will need to build a timber frame to roll her.
#25
Charlie Jones
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Posted 18 December 2007 - 11:06 AM
Greg- I rolled the 22 inside ( in the old shop), exactly like I did the 20. If you have enough room for the beam of the boat, plus some walking room along each side, you have enough space. That's pretty much all it takes since it rolls exactly in place. You will of course need enough strength up above to hold the weight.
I doubt the 26 will weight THAT much more at that stage than the 22 did.
I much prefer waiting till a lot of the interior is done, then rolling the boat over, pulling wires, glassing exterior, sanding and painting ( if possible) On the P 22 I painted from the chine down while it was upside down, because I still had glass work at the sheer to do. Then once the decks were all done, I sprayed from the sheer down- the topsides.
I doubt the 26 will weight THAT much more at that stage than the 22 did.
I much prefer waiting till a lot of the interior is done, then rolling the boat over, pulling wires, glassing exterior, sanding and painting ( if possible) On the P 22 I painted from the chine down while it was upside down, because I still had glass work at the sheer to do. Then once the decks were all done, I sprayed from the sheer down- the topsides.
#26
Greg Luckett
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Posted 26 December 2007 - 08:17 PM
I am wondering about a rolling frame for the smaller boats, which would allow me to easily move the whole assembly or rotate the boat by myself. It could be low enough to fit under the shop rollup door and could be constructed to handle boats up to 20 feet. The boats would be built within the frame. Just a thought.
