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Paint for my CS17


James Bandle

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The description of it sounds way too good to be true, which very often means it is. If it is in fact what it says it is, then it shouldn't be long before everyone is raving about it. I think I will wait to hear from other than the manufacture proclaiming its attributes. But if in fact it turns out it does what it claims, I will be using it.

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Well, I tried to do some Internet sleuthing to see if I could figure out who Top Secret Coatings is, but I haven't got much ... the domain name has an address of "4610 226th pl ne, Arlington, 98223", which is in the state of Washington, Snohomish County, just of Everett and Marysville (which are north of Seattle). Maybe one of our Washington members can find out more about them.

Their web site is on a shared server with 1,346 other sites, which is odd if they are a "big company", but not so much if they are a start up or small business. messing-about.com is on a server with 446 other sites, so they really went "cheap" with their website. The domain name "topsecretcoatings.com" was registered in 2004.

Maybe we can sponsor a test for them or something with the results here ... or perhaps Practical Sailor can include them in their next test.

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From their website:

Previously, Top Secret Coatings was a brand name wholly owned by North American Trading Company Inc, a holding company, located in Arlington Washington. In July of 2005, to coincide with the release of its remarkable new One Part Epoxy, North American Trading Co. sold its Top Secret Coatings brand name to newly incorporated Top Secret Pant and Coatings Inc located in nearby Marysville Washington, a suburb of Seattle WA.

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A representative of an epoxy manufacturer told me that one-part epoxy WILL NOT stick to two-part epoxy. The way he said it I got the idea that when coating two-part epoxy anything is better than one-part epoxy.

I wish I could remember exactly who said this and exactly what was said but this was a few years back. What I really remember was the emphasis on NOT coating two-part with one-part.

If anyone chimes in with a success story I will defer to greater experience though, since I haven't actually tried it...

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A two part epoxy or what I know as a polyurethane paint, has a different chemical makeup than the so called one part epoxy paints that I have used. It will lift the one part when you cover it with the two part parts if the one part paints are fairly fresh. If its aged, then most of the times with the proper sanding, you can recoat the one part paints with the two part paints. But do not build the surface up with one part and then two part coat it for the final finish.

I have never used the coating posted. So check the base and chemical makeup. Let us know what thinners are used for the paint. Thats the tell-tell sign if any is used for it.

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What is "one part" epoxy?

I thought epoxy, by definition, was a chemical reaction between a resin and a catalyst that created a cross linked matrix, in short, always a two part mix. What would a one part react with.....air?

As per System 3, if it says alkyd anywhere on the can, it's oil based and won't stick to epoxy....they are not chemically compatible. Always, there is that adhesion test to follow.

My guess is this is more of an oil based enamel, or maybe a one part enamel like Interlux Brightsides. Good for painting fiberglass boats made of polyester resins or coating polyester gel coat, but not for coating two part epoxies. And not all that cheap either.

If it was mine, I'd stick to a two part LPU. Or, if it was going to be left in the water for long periods of time, a two part epoxy paint for the part below the waterline.

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  • 4 weeks later...

My experience with one-part epoxies is that they have to be heated above 300 deg F to cure. That doesn't make sense for wooden boat finishes so maybe there is some marketing going on. Generally the curing agent in a one-part formulation needs heat to activate it. Otherwise the product would cure in the can at room temperature. I would be happy to have a different explanation for the one-part concept.

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As per System 3' date=' if it says alkyd anywhere on the can, it's oil based and won't stick to epoxy....they are not chemically compatible. Always, there is that adhesion test to follow.

[/quote']

This is funny ... before System Three had their own paint, they had quite a bit on their site about how you can paint their epoxy with oil based marine paint, but you had to do the adhesion test to make sure. Now it sounds like they are saying to avoid all oil based paints and, oh by the way, you can always use our water based paint. ;)

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Brightsides will work just fine over epoxy. It's a one part urethane, not an enamel- I don't particularly care for Brightsides because I find it hard to get good coverage with colors other than white and I don't find it all that durable but it WILL work. By the way- on the can it's called a "premium one-part enamel"

So will Pettit's Easy Poxy. I've used that over cured epoxy several times, including on the decks of the trimaran I lived aboard. Found it to be a pretty good paint. EasyPoxy isn't a true epoxy paint though- it's really also an enamel of some sort. EasyPoxy is said (on the can) to be ok for boat bottoms that don't need bottom paint, by the way.

A good alkyd enamel should work on CURED and well sanded epoxy also, but I can't say for sure because I've never tried it. However, I have epoxy,, scrap plywood and some enamel, so I'll give it a shot.

The two part LPUs do work extremely well, but they have a downside- they are HIGHLY toxic when sprayed, so if you don't have full on respirators, DON'T spray the stuff- instead use "roll and tip", which doesn't atomize the material and is therefore much safer.

Oh- and as a final comment- ever use ZSpar varnish such as Captains or Flagship? 1015 and 2015 for those of you who use the numbers. I use it ALL the time, quite effectively. Both of those are Alkyd based, as are most true spar varnishes.

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