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The new EC22 design


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The stern half of the boat is about done and in a day or two we will start coating with two coats of epoxy. I am using Devoe two part epoxy paint over the epoxy sealing because it is cheap and very tough. We may not get all of the boat painted before the race as I would like but it will be sealed.

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The cabin is permanent but that still leaves the largest cockpit you will find. It's huge. I don't think any sane person would ever want more people aboard than it will hold. After the race, it's still going to be a great fast daysailer and small cruising boat for those that don't require all the stuff from home.

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I like the boat and concept so far... My personal prefrence would be to have a longer cabin. I never like taking more than 4 people out at a time anyway.

Question' date=' how high are the seat off the sole? and can you see over the cabin while sitting down?

Regards,

Niels[/quote']

There is sitting headroom for me at 6' if I slouch just a fraction. Dont remember the seat height but is is plenty high. It's easy to see over the cabin which was a design goal. Cabin length? The berths are long enough for Kareem Jabar with plenty room for gear left over.

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One of the fun things about designing this boat for myself was being able to make my own compromises. No I can't see over the cabin while sitting on the seats although I can see forward . There is full visibility while sitting on the side deck.

This boat was designed with performance first and cruising priorities second. The freeboard aft is the same height as the CS17 to keep the CG of the crew as low as possible, to help with rowing and to save some weight. The position of the cuddy was dictated by being forward of the ideal crew position to keep the boat in trim while racing and to alow for dual rowing positions. The bunks are nearly 9' long which gives us options to keep the boat in trim while a crew is sleeping.

The cuddy cabin is the only concession to comfort which I decided was worth the extra weight and windage because I need to have a useful boat when it is not racing. While it would be possible to build a removable cuddy I did not think that it was worth the extra work and weight. The cabin and deck reinforce each other. The cabin may look a bit high but it is as low as I could make it. I just have sitting headroom while sitting on the bunks which are as low as I could make them. To give you an idea of how light every thing is, the bunk tops are only 4mm ply and the cabin is 6mm. It is not that cabin is high but that the freeboard is low.

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Yesterday we installed the mast step, glued up the rudder cheeks and Tom installed the epoxy soaked rope on the leading edge of the centerboard.

We have been held up for a couple of days waiting for the epoxy coating to cure enough to sand for painting, it was 31 degrees in the shop early this morning.

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When you get around to pulling the wax paper off that CB, can you or Tom take some detailed photos of how that rope trick was done? I've heard of this many times, but have never seen it up close. Is the rope glued to the edge or in a groove? How much fairing next to it? How far do you wrap it around and how do you fair the ends. That sort of thing.

Looking very good....as we might expect from this particular team of builders.

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I never use wax paper with epoxy. Poly sheeting is far better in all respects. Wax paper wil stick to epoxy if it gets warm during the cure phase and is not nearly strong enough for this job.

A groove in the edge is not necessary. I make a flat that will allow the line selected to form the desired radius on the leading edge. I like soft braided dacron line best but nylon will work fine for the edge. We used 3/8" line here. After planing the edge, I drilled a hole on the upper end to fit the end of the line in. A notch was chiseled in the lower end of the board to allow the line to taper off.

The line is then coiled in a cup of epoxy and worked with a paddle to get the air bubbles out. Stick the line in the upper hole and hamer in a temporary nail because the line is going to be stretched as much as possible to hold it straight along the edge with a nail driven in the other end. Cut a strip of plastic sheet and wrap it over the edge as shown. Fix one end with staples driven through duct tape for reinforcement. Stretch the plastic toward the other end and staple that. Now pull the plastic down evenly on both sides and staple. The plastic sheet will make the soaked line smooth because you dont want to have to sand it, which is almost impossible anyway. You will generally need to fill some gaps with fairing mix after the plastic is removed and then sand that smooth.

This makes an almost indestructable edge on centerboards, rudders, paddles, stems and whatever. I don't think the Florida Bay flats will give it any trouble. I've been making these for about 20 years and never had one fail in any way.

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Ah yes.....that is plastic. I use wax paper to catch drips, but that is about all. Stretched like that, it would never work. Is that stretched tight enough to compress the rope into a pyramid shape or just to smooth the leading edge? Any thickeners in the epoxy? What wood was used to make the CB? Looks like western cedar. I assume you also cover the board....rope too....with xynole?

Also, having used a vacuum packer a few times, it is amazing how little suck is needed to pull a vacuum. I was thinking a person could coil the rope in the bottom of a plastic bucket just big enough to allow the full coil to lay flat on the bottom, fit the bucket with a lid of lexan....with a 1 inch hole drilled in it...then dump the epoxy on the rope, place the lid and hit it with a shop vac. You should suck nothing but air, and it should "boil" off any air instantly. Would void ALL the air in the rope and allow you to get to work before the epoxy heats up and gets "busy".

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