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Help me wake the dead


Guest Oyster

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Guest Oyster

Oh I mean deadeyes :wink: I need some pictures of deadeyes for my new rigging. I wish to remove the turnbuckles that are really funky to "look". I have seen some rings and loops but want to be able to adjust them. I have not had any luck with the google feature. Thanks in advance.

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And a few more.

I'm kinda partial to using wood with interlocking grain patterns so that there is less of a tendency to split and crack with age. My first preference is American Elm. Finishes out nicely with oil or varnish. Easily worked. Second is Black locust. Lasts forever and finishes out nicely as well.

Third is Ash or Hickory, had good success with both of these although they tend to check quicker than the first two.

Then White oak or Mahogany. Both work well, take finishing nicely. The oak has a tendency to split and check a little quicker though.

But if the budget can stand it, Lignum Vite' is first choice, Teak in there somewhere too. Both finish out beautifully and will last virtually forever.

Avoid RED Oak, poplar and any of the softwoods

I tend to like soaking them in boiling linseed oil until they won't absorb any more oil. (Couple hours at a slow simmer) Then hannging them on a line to dry out for a week or two. I then buff them with a polishing wheel and they are good to go. The linseed oil hardens the wood and keeps moisture out of the end grain. About twice a season I apply an additional coat with a rag and let it dry and then just buff with a towel.

If you want a bright finish on them, apply a good varnish after doing the above.

OH, how do you get them to hang straight and connect to the chainplates?

The easiest way is like Phil has done it or with a 90 degree twist shackle .

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Many years ago, I made up a set of deadeyes from galvanized wire and teak. The wire was hard soldered and lashed, looking much like tarred line after painting. The bottom eye was strapped to the chain plate in a traditional fashion (swiveling eye), but the top eye had an "all thread" coupler epoxied inside and an eye bolt run through from the top to receive the shroud (thimbled). This provided a deadeye that looked salty, but had the adjustability of a turnbuckle, by sticking a fid in the upper eye (to hold the shroud) and turning the deadeye to slacken or tighten.

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Guest Oyster

Thanks everyone for the shots. Phil, I still marvel at your workmanship on your boat. Smoothy, your project needs its own link on Stevenson website. 8) I hope that it works out for you in stabilty, too. The rigging is fairly simple, and uncumbered by a lot of fittings, so I think I will come up with a deadeye and block rig for it.

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