mrthethird Posted February 28, 2006 Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 I haven't been very good at keepin' y'all updated with my progress, so here it is all in one lump.... :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrthethird Posted February 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 I'm figurin' that if I start working frantically like I'm not ready for it, Spring will come faster, just to make me look bad... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrthethird Posted February 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 Stripped the deck with cedar. This boat's finally starting to look like a Weekender Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Pyeatt Posted February 28, 2006 Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 Looking good! Going to be a spectacular deck. Isn't that the fun part? How do you plan on finishing it? 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrthethird Posted February 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 Light beige/cream base w/ bright mahogany accents, bright cedar deck and seats. Maybe some flames..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Oyster Posted February 28, 2006 Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 Very nice work!!! One thing to consider with a cedar deck, is the softness of the woods. It takes little to ding it, dinging down through clear coats. Touch ups can make you a very unhappy camper. Plan accordingly with your finish materials. We need to discuss your finish products?. :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrthethird Posted February 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 I know you guys and your opinions on paints.... The deck gets 4 oz. glass and epoxy, then a clearcoat of PPG Pitthane. The hull gets 6 oz glass and 3 coats of epoxy, pigmented pitthane, and a clear coat of pitthane. Pitthane is a hybrid of polyurethane used to coat aircraft. extremely durable and uv resistant, if not a little difficult to get to lay down smooth. I have used it on my kayaks, and love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Hagan Posted February 28, 2006 Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 One issue with bright decks is the non-skid ... is the Pitthane non-skid? I think Phil had this issue with Aloha (at least someone did with a bright finish deck). They found some non-skid material that was basically clear under epoxy, and used that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrthethird Posted February 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 One issue with bright decks is the non-skid ... is the Pitthane non-skid? No, it is very smooth and glossy. But the #10 glass bead I put down will be a little no-skiddish.... :wink: The #10 glass bead is quite large, so it won't non-skid knees as agressively as sand, but still small enough to get the job done. I believe the post I read about how to lay it on was from here, but I don't remember. There's lots I don't remember anymore.... :roll: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Oyster Posted February 28, 2006 Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 Practice on scrap cedar off the deck and hull, and get it right, first, the clearcoat and associated stuff. 8) Just a suggestion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrthethird Posted February 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 Practice on scrap cedar off the deck and hull' date=' and get it right, first, the clearcoat and associated stuff. 8) Just a suggestion[/quote']I appreciate the concern. You guys are great. Built three deck mock-ups for just that reason. I have been finishing wood in the cabinet industry for about 10 years now. About 5 years ago, I started looking for a finish for my kayak. I had done a teak gazebo for a customer that really took a bad turn. The spar urethane did not have the holding power I was told it would. Here in Utah, the sun's uv rays seem to taunt all finishes. The spar urethane yellowed and flaked off faster than I would have expected plain lacquer to do the same. Needless to say, my customer wasn't very happy. After several attempts and a huge impact to profitability, we found that automotive-quality clear coats were the way to go for exterior wood finishes. Better yet, catalyzed products. This will be my first attempt at non-skid. I will post my test pieces... Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Luckett Posted February 28, 2006 Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 Never a need to apologize , especially when you have posted so many neat pics. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Gowans Posted February 28, 2006 Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 Interesting! I used automotive clear coat for my weekender here in Utah as well. I am starting on my 6th year since painting and things look pretty decent still. (Of course, I don't let the sun get much time to shine on Aloha - just when I'm sailing). I also used the glass bead. I applied it with a salt shaker and clear-coated after to hold it on. It worked ok, but you can see the coverage is not consistent throughout. I do wish I had a less agressive type of non-skid. I don't have any idea what size bead it was. It was some extra that the auto-body guy had around that did my painting. It can draw blood on the knees if I'm not very careful. I went back to see what it looked like when new, and it doesn't look this fine now, but still quite accetable. Here is one from this last summer. However, I couldn't find a better one of the deck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Oyster Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 If I missed something, well here is my favorite skid. It also blends with clearcoats, yes a slight color change but works great. It receives the liquid and wears accordingly. I have used it in enamels and all two part coatings. Just let sit for about 20 minutes, and then stir with caution, and along the way, stir slowly keping the skid suspended during your process. So many of you guys are just too organized and thorough in your projects. I feel humbled many days around this place. http://shop.sailnet.com/product_info.php/products_id/167 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 You are so right about the spar urethane. I used it last year with very poor result. That stuff didn't last 3 months in Fla. This year it is Rustoleum's Spar Varnish that is supposed to be very UV proof. If this doesn't work I'll spend the bucks and get Bristol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrthethird Posted March 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2006 A couple more building pics. Note: rub rails are NOT a one-man operation, if you want it done in any kind of time...took most of the afternoon to get 'em on straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Jones Posted March 6, 2006 Report Share Posted March 6, 2006 Craig- we've been very happy with ZSpars Flagship 2015 varnish here on the Texas coast. That's all we ever use any more. Still need a touch up every 4 - 5 months but it's far better than anything else we've tried. Our toe rails and eyebrows need to be redone now - but they have held up since last May, fairly well anyway. We keep hand rails and drop boards covered as much as possible with fitted sunbrella covers. The varnished mast is still perfect- I suppose that's because it's vertical rather than horizontal. Should go up and look at the tops of the spreaders though Hate to go up masts!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
umop_apisdn Posted March 6, 2006 Report Share Posted March 6, 2006 Phil: Question about the non-skid on Aloha I see that you put non-skid on the cabin hatch. Is your hatch strong enough to walk on? Mine looks pretty flimsy, so I don't step on it. Thanks, Noel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Gowans Posted March 6, 2006 Report Share Posted March 6, 2006 Phil: Question about the non-skid on AlohaI see that you put non-skid on the cabin hatch. Is your hatch strong enough to walk on? Mine looks pretty flimsy' date=' so I don't step on it. Thanks, Noel.[/quote'] Mine is strong enough. I used 3/8" ply for both hatches and added a cross piece for the main hatch. I wanted it to be sturdy enough to walk on. Actually I'm getting a bit heavy and old. My footing is not that sure on a moving boat. I knew I would eventually have to step on the hatches. In fact I slipped on ice on my deck once and used the boom to stop my fall and broke it. I now think most things should be fairly substantial. Here's a picture of the bottom of the hatch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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