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Cut a new mast today, from white spruce. I really like working with this wood. Okay, I'll admit I first bought a fir 4x4 this morning and totally messed it up trying to cut the beveled edges, my table saw and skill saw just couldn't handle it. I kept binding the blade, getting off center when I hit knots, and gouged the wood. I mean I wasted a 16ft, $21 piece of wood, it is now cut up for the barbacue pit.

I then went and bought a rough cut spruce 4x4. Started to have the same problems, I had to face the facts my saws and my shakey hands weren't getting the job done. Dang humiliating!

PLAN B, I broke out my Huskavarna 061, 20inch bar chainsaw. I used to work for the Alaska Power Association cutting danger trees out of power lines, I'm good with a chainsaw. No mater how shakey my hands are! I used the chalk line to mark the cuts and in 15min had the mast cut into an octagon shape. Even rounded the top. Maybe I should take up chainsaw sculpture I can't believe how long I messed around with the table saw trying to make those cuts.

I then used my power plane and smoothed my new stick up, beautiful. Unfortunately, I don't think I have time to varnish it, yet. I certainly am not going to paint it. It is just to dang pretty. The mast should look pretty good with my new beaded mast hoops.

What clear finish dries in a day or two?

Kachemak Bay Wooden Boat Festival here I come.

I think we need more information on this one, and pictures to accompany this phantom post. As far as the one or two day drying times, if you have any minwax products, sold in most hardware stores, and most big box stores, then try it, as it would fit your bill of goods.

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Varathane Diamond Coat Exterior is a crystal clear water based liquid plastic coating with high UV properties and dries really hard over night. Even multiple coats will set up well in just a couple days. Doesn't yellow either. Just a thought for a quick finish that will hold up quite well.

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Seams will be white thickened epoxy, and all will be clear coated. Book matched cypress trimed with mahogany, all scraps from the scraps. I allowed my thread to die a natural death since other projects of interest, that fit a broader portion of the members evolved here. The small white residue is just a bit of what squeezed out from the strip gluing with flexible caulking and has been sanded and removed as of now.

The first six pieces are all bookmatched but I ran out enough to do the last three towards the rails on both sides. If you click on the shots and enlarge it, the patterns shows better.

I am in the process of the side planking, but have no pictures yet of it. If you notice, the mahogany carries around the rails of the boat and will also trim out the inside of the coaming, of course.

Thanks for asking.

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I am intending on using a flattening agent in the topcoat over the clear coat and several coats of poly clear with UV protection. This allows for the depth of the finish and a smoothe finish without all the issues of highgloss. I may change my mind depending on the time fof year of the finish work. At this rate I may not launch it till around June with the extra seasonal work right now.

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Always space for more progress photos. Particularly of this kind of work. The progress photos of this project Mike have been eagerly awaitied by a bunch of us and I'm sure of interest to a lot more.

It is a real joy for me to see this being done and in particular as you have done it. Looking forward to more as it nears completion.

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Mike that is beautiful. What are you using on the joint on the deck it looks like it will sand down and give you an invisible seam. I am doing my front hatch out of oak from my 120 year old farm house and a 1894 stinewey piano mahogany ( major bright work). So any info on how ti make it look good would be great.

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I am intending on using a flattening agent in the topcoat over the clear coat and several coats of poly clear with UV protection. This allows for the depth of the finish and a smoothe finish without all the issues of highgloss. I may change my mind depending on the time fof year of the finish work. At this rate I may not launch it till around June with the extra seasonal work right now.

Do tell. I'm refinishing a library table right now, and want the hard shell protection of a poly on it, but hate the high gloss. What do you use for a flattening agent?

I had a horrible experience with Minwax fast dry satin poly; way too much "stuff" in it that made the finish horrible.

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