RobertButler Posted June 17, 2004 Report Share Posted June 17, 2004 I'm getting Miss Norel ready for sale and want to convert her back to wheel steering, having modified to tiller steering after capsizing her on our second outing. I seem to recall someone posting a modification to the steering linkage a few years ago. His fix removed the slack that makes the wheel steering somewhat sloppy. Does anyone recall this or have a link to his website? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Paxton Posted June 18, 2004 Report Share Posted June 18, 2004 Hey, Bob. Do you still have that beautiful cabinless Weekender? It was the inspiration for my own open boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertButler Posted June 18, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2004 I do. In fact I still have all 3, but my wife says I need to sell a couple. Along with a Westsail 32 that's sitting neglected in dry storage at San Carlos, she thinks that 4 sailboats is 2 or 3 too many. I, of course, disagree ...you can never have too many sailboats. Is there a page where I can see photos of your completed project? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Paxton Posted June 18, 2004 Report Share Posted June 18, 2004 You can find my building and sailing photos at http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/paxton_consulting/ Our boat is in its fourth season already, and we thoroughly enjoy her. We've sailed her in all kinds of conditions, and she has never let us down. The 10' cockpit make it comfortable for a crew of four to sail for a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Pennington Posted June 19, 2004 Report Share Posted June 19, 2004 Bob, Are you thinking of T. Nelson's drawings posted on Frank's modification album? I use this one myself and I am very pleased with how well it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertButler Posted June 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2004 That looks like the one, Mike. I seem to recall that there was a turnbuckle involved. Thanks a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Hagan Posted June 19, 2004 Report Share Posted June 19, 2004 Bob, the other pics of Nelson's system are at http://groups.msn.com/WeekenderBoatbuilding/modifications1.msnw?Page=2 ... there's a drawing that provides the view of the turnbuckle position and then a picture of his setup. If I've linked them correctly, they will appear below: And the picture: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knut Posted June 19, 2004 Report Share Posted June 19, 2004 Bob, I don't often get the chance to comment any more (being without my Weekender after selling it). I still feel like supporting your search for a good system for a wheel steering and I (among many others) installed the T. Nelson modification that has already been referenced in other emails. In my case this solution worked flawlessly and I never had to adjust the tension of the rope. Actually, I used it without any real tension and the steering was still very accurate and direct without any slack in the system. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertButler Posted June 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2004 By running the line thru a pulley mounted on the tiller, back to another pulley mounted on the block, the line has to travel twice the distance to move the rudder the same amount as the Stevenson's setup. Has anyone tried it without the extra pulley? Seems to me that there are times you want to be able to change directions quickly ...that's where a tiller is so effective. Another question - has anyone come up with a better idea than the lagscrew for attaching the steering shaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arnie Eaton Posted June 20, 2004 Report Share Posted June 20, 2004 I built the system on my Vac. using most of Tom's plan. I used an AL. shaft, 1 inch in dia., mounted to surface bearing blocks, one on the stern inside and one on the inside of the Las. with the balance of the shaft sticking out to mount the wheel. The wheel has a keyway as does the shaft which locks the wheel to the shaft. I also used steel cable instead of rope. No strech at all. System is very smooth to operate. I run the cable thru the shaft with two set screws, one from each side, which locks the cable in place. Yes I do have a turnbuckle for adjustment. As the shaft was slightly oversized, I sanded the shaft while mounted in my lathe, down to the one inch so it would fit thru the bearing blocks. Cutting the threads on the shaft was a bear, but I had the keyway work done by a machinest. I would post a pic if I knew how. Not that computer savy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeStevenson Posted June 20, 2004 Report Share Posted June 20, 2004 I hope someone has a boat at the Big Messabout with the modified steering. I want to try one out and see if it's any different in feeling from our original system (aside from being twice as slow.) The reduction in turns is what I would argue against, as the system we have in the plans is fast-acting and makes things more tiller-like than a traditional wheel. Those of you who've switched seem happy enough though, so perhaps the modified versions are not much different. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Gowans Posted June 21, 2004 Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 If you want to have the same thing that the Stevenson's designed, but without the disadvantage of adjustment bolts sticking through the rub rail, you might want to see what I did. This uses only 2 blocks and has a single turnbuckle. Instead of a knot that ties to the spindle an adjustable clamp is used. However, don't follow my bright idea of using cable. It broke after one season. I went to low stretch line and it works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertButler Posted June 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 Thanks, Phil. That's the arrangement I had come up with as well. However, what is the purpose of the adjustable clamp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Gowans Posted June 21, 2004 Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 Robert, The adjustable clamp is only needed if you want to center the wheel. I have a king spoke that I like to keep aligned to the middle. The clamp is simply a piece of metal with screws that allows the rope to slip under it when the screws are loosened. I also found that rope clamps work much better than the knots shown in the picture. I would also like to complement you on the fine job you did on your boats. They were a great inspiration to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshall Posted June 21, 2004 Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 Being a novice at this, I found that putting a thin layer of rubber around the shaft, gluing it in place has decreased slippage of the ropes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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