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Riggs

OC20/B in Biloxi MS USA

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Just to add to PAR's comments on wood. The reason why I specify SYP over fir on stringers is that first of all, it is readily available and cheaper. They are similar in durability and strength with a slight nod to fir. The main reason I like pine is that fir is stiffer which is great for spars but nasty if you have to bend it around the hull, especially sheer clamps which have a lot of bend and twist. 

 

Fir has a nasty habit of failing at the point of maximum bend a day or two after it is installed. It will show up as a small crack across the grain and then peel along the grain. 

 

Pine will sometime develop crooks along the board as it cures. If you sight down the board it can sometimes look like a snake. I almost never buy from a box store where they have a high turnover. I usually go to a place that sells to contractors or a wholesale outlet. Rather than dig through the new stock I prefer to search through a dusty stack because it is well seasoned and it has settled to it's final shape. We mostly want to bend the wood so a long fair bend could be desirable.

 

I do not rigidly stick to my shopping list. I might find that the 1 x 4 stack is junk but there might be some nice 1 x 6's or 1 x 8's. I do not mind if I buy more than my immediate needs because I will use the rest later. The next level up from construction grade is called "C and Better". You can usually find nice clear boards in that stack. If you want to save some money and do not mind putting in some extra effort,  look in the construction stack. At first glance you will notice that the boards are full of knots and suddenly you will find a clear board. As you study the board closer you will find that there is a corner missing at one end because the board ran outside the edge of the tree and it was downgraded to construction grade. I do not usually do this for pine but they also use eastern white spruce for construction around here which is perfect for small boat spars. We cannot buy premium spruce at any price locally so I have dug through a lot of spruce stacks.  

 

 

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Thanks again. The only reason i was looking at the cypress was a fellow locally said it was flexible and folks round here used to use it in that kinda situation. i can find SYP in clear and machine for a much cheaper cost so that is what i will be doing. Working on the chine battons at the minite. 

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I use a local lumber store that nearly and solely for contractors. Their stock is better, though their retail prices are usually higher than the big box stores, I'm getting wholesale. I too scrounge for white spruce for spars. SYP stacks can be a gold mine if you know what to look for and can mill them down. These long and wide boards have to come from older, denser trees, which means you'll find clean, straight stock after you've gone through several pieces. I also have some local mills, that I can beat up the owners for some good stuff, occasionally. Learn what to look for, what you want and need in a particular board and a little about species physical properties and you can save a lot of money, if you use a fair bit of timber. Hell, I got my other half trained in less than a few visits and she catches as many good ones as I any more. It's not hard and will seem obvious in short order. Over the years, these techniques have likely saved me 50% in limber costs. Lastly quantity counts, so if you can work out deals on "culls" and good size stacks of material, they'll give you better prices.

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So the bottom is on and am now looking forward. What is the thoughts on using that same old heart pine from said roof deck for the shear clamp. It is old but strait and can be made to fit the bill. Other than that the bottom went on very well and it is really starting to look like a boat

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Eye am watchin you :)

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