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Drew

Rigging the Mizzen Sprit

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Here is a question for those with mizzen sprits (and the designers). Like many others, I would like to stop the mizzen sheet from fouling on the outboard motor. I have looked at advantages and disadvantages of various types of pushpit rail, I feel that it doesn't fit with accessing the boat over the stern. Thinking about the angles and forces involved in keeping the leech of the sail tight by positioning the sheet, is there any practical reason why I can't attach the sheet a couple of feet forward of the sail attachment? The foot of the sail should still keep the sprit and snotter in tension. What are your thoughts guys?

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   If I'm picturing it right you'll have two challenges with that:  You'll put a bending force on the sprit-boom and the sheet will foul the foot of the sail on at least one tack when reaching.

   I think I've seen that someone somewhere has dealt with the problem through the judicious application of some bungee cord but I don't remember exactly how.

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10 hours ago, Drew said:

 Like many others, I would like to stop the mizzen sheet from fouling on the outboard motor. 

 

Removing the OB always seems to work.  ;)

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I think a pretty good solution to this was discovered by David Jost? Here is his blog

http://jostboats.blogspot.com/

 

He used a ring that takes up the mizzen slack during a tack when the sheet goes limp so that it can pass over the outboard. While sailing the sheet hardens up and the bungee is just along for the ride. Another tip is to make a custom stop block for your outboard so that instead of it being tilted all the way up to the built in lock position you can only tilt it up enough to let the lower unit and prop clear the water. This cuts down on the prop fouling the sheet since it's much lower down but still out of the water. 

 

-Alan

mizzen sheet ring 2.jpg

mizzen sheet ring.jpg

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Thanks Dave F, but rowing long distances against the wind really sucks! Thanks also Alan for the pics, I will try David J's method (too many David's here?). I did a trial fit today and used a carabiner instead of a ring so it can easily be detached. I will try it on the water ASAP.

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Don, I'm thinking (hoping) that the bungee and ring will simply ride up the sheets and hang loose, since the tension in the fore and aft direction is no longer there. It would be interesting to hear from David Jost on this if he is still following the forum. I assume that the ring finds its natural position such that when the sheets are close hauled and going about the ring rides to the position where the sheets are at an angle like in the pictures above.

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I think David's setup is the one I remember.  If there's too much tension it may be a pain when you're sailing in very light wind but using a carabiner will allow you to take the bungee cord out of the system easily.  Experimentation with the amount of tension and the attachment position should be a fun way to spend a day on the water (I'd try it if I still had a mizzen). :)

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On ‎11‎/‎10‎/‎2017 at 8:11 AM, Alan Stewart said:

Another tip is to make a custom stop block for your outboard so that instead of it being tilted all the way up to the built in lock position you can only tilt it up enough to let the lower unit and prop clear the water. This cuts down on the prop fouling the sheet since it's much lower down but still out of the water. 

 

I use a custom block like this on Summer Breeze. The sheet doesn't catch on the lower unit, but does catch on the power head of the motor. It also catches on my boarding ladder. I like David's idea and will try it next time we go sailing.

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Thanks David J. While you New England guys hibernate for the winter I will try it out in our summer and add to the post later. Stay warm!

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