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Riggs

Marissa # 63

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Riggs    4

A few more pics from today. Last boat i built was back in 1986. A 24 Halfish which still lives and works out of Whitstable under the name of Danny Boy.  Reason i am going here is we used to mix polyester resin and sawdust to try and make fillets for later glassing. I am very much liking the B+B mix :) I have a couple of the side stringers in and the others are all glued up waiting to go in. I am using Spruce for these and they seem to be not exploding so far.  Other than that working on some fillets and bud light. Think i am gonna have to add a little more meat to the side stringers forward. Thoughts anyone ?

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smccormick    20
17 hours ago, Riggs said:

Think i am gonna have to add a little more meat to the side stringers forward. Thoughts anyone ?

 

There have been a bunch of these models built and I haven't heard of any problems with the part strength.  I'm sure if there was, Graham and Alan would have already addressed it in the design, so I would recommend leaving as is.

 

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Lotus    11

On my OC20  I reinforced it this way ( photo ) but today I think this was useless , as when you sheet the sides with plywood,  the stringers and the keel will become one solid part  

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Lotus    11

BTW , I will put an other pvc pipe on the other side , just to separate the electronic stuff from the motor harness and cables , and for sure an other 1" pipe for fuel line . These can all be done later on before fitting the sole  

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Riggs    4

I saw you had another chase in your Marissa lotus and i do think it was a good idea and planned on doing the same  myself :)  Lotus and Smccormick i guess my photo was no good. By the time i fair the frame and side stringer there will not be much left if that makes sense. I will try and get another photo to show what i mean.  Today i worked on the chin flats milled them up out of 1x6 spruce then scarfed and glued them up but was inpatient and did not give it enough time to cure. Glue joint failed once i had it all cut and clamped in place . Typical me . So now they both sit all recut and clued and will go in on the morrow

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smccormick    20
On 8/22/2017 at 2:01 PM, Riggs said:

Lotus and Smccormick i guess my photo was no good. By the time i fair the frame and side stringer there will not be much left if that makes sense.

 

Going back and looking closer at what you explained here I think there isn't enough twist in the ribband in the bow section which caused the face of the ribband and the edge of the frame to not be planar.  The ribband should also twist enough so that it's outside surface is in plane with the keel bevel.  

 

Now that I'm on the same page, I agree, you'll need to glue some material to the face and back of the part before you fair.

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Lotus    11

I think Smccormick is right . You can also separate (cut) the stringer where it meets the keel , reshape it's end , give it enough twist and re glue. ( most probably when you twist the stringer it will bent slightly upwards therefore its length will permit to re shape the end )

If I remember correctly there's a secondary  outline mark on the keel edge (on plans ) that shows how much the keel have to be shaved to get its angle , and also a mark where the stringer meets the keel. If you transfer these markes to the keel these will guide you correctly   ;)

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Riggs    4

That is my thoughts exactly. I will add some material and plan it back i think. Thx for the advise guys :)

 

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Riggs    4

No photos today. Camera battery died and i have no replacement. I have added a little material to the side stringer and sorted that issue out, have glued up a total of 3 chine batons for the starboard side so far as 2 have just plain failed at the glue joint on a scarf. The third i have placed the scarf on frame 2. I will also give it a couple days to cure.

 

I am now starting to over think the bottom and side sheeting. My question is what is the best method of joining the sheets of 3/8"ply. I have no way to scarf them in an accurate fashion and i do not really like a strait butt joint. That being said i would really appreciate any input you folks might have

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Thrillsbe    66

Draw a line on both boards, 3" from the end.  Stagger them to the line.  Plane them down to the line.  What's nice is if you have a power planer, but it is not necessary.  The individual plys in the wood tell you where you need to take more material away.  The photo is a stack of four 4mm thick panels, by the way.  They are staggered at 1.5".  But you'll need 3" for 3/8.

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smccormick    20

Scarfs aren't all that hard to do once you get going.  Only need a hand plane really.  Power planer would be faster, but you can make mistakes faster too.

 

I suppose you can use a payson joint.  Bevel depth to accommodate your desired glass thickness, layup, grind flat with the ply surface.

 

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Ken_Potts    58
3 hours ago, Riggs said:

...2 have just plain failed at the glue joint on a scarf.

 

What broke, the glue or the wood?

Disclaimer: I'm not an expert so don't take the rest of this post as gospel.

If the wood itself didn't break there may have been  a problem with the glue joints.  The epoxy may have not penetrated the wood enough to get a good joint.

If the wood broke the problem wasn't the glue joint, it would be the bend (as you have noted).

 

The scarfing method Don shows works with a belt sander, too.  You could always do a practice joint before you commit the real parts to it.

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Lotus    11
2 hours ago, Ken_Potts said:

 

If the wood itself didn't break there may have been  a problem with the glue joints.  The epoxy may have not penetrated the wood enough to get a good joint.

If the wood broke the problem wasn't the glue joint, it would be the bend 

 

 

Assuming you are using only EPOXY as glue and not some other kind of stuff like PU based glues !

 

If the surfaces that are going to be glued together are roughened with a rasp ( or 40 grid sandpaper ) this will help the epoxy to penetrate easier especial an solid woods like fir .  

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Alan Stewart    62
10 hours ago, Riggs said:

2 have just plain failed at the glue joint on a scarf.

 

+1 on how it failed? 8:1 taper on the scarf used? thickened epoxy used?

 

Enjoying your build photos.

-Alan

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Riggs    4

Wow thx guys. The joint failed due to my inpatients i think both times :wacko: It is a 10:1( or close as i made a little jig for my table saw) scarf using Caskamite powdered resin glue.  I have always had very good luck with it but i am reasonably sure it just did not get the cure time. Both times it failed after about 20 mins under stress. This time i have placed the scarf in a better local and will give it the cure time. 

 

On the plywood scarf now it is explained it seems simple enough to stack em and hit them with a plane. I will be cutting the plywood for the bottom, chine and sides over the next few days while i let my glue dry :) then see about getting some plywood onto the bones

 

Thx again for the advise and i get some batterys today so i can bore you guys with some pics

 

 

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Riggs    4

Few pics of the last few days. The dreaded chine batton finally worked on the third try( after i let the glue cure properly)  Traced out and cut the bottom and the chine flats and got them glued up. I keep seeing a flat spot on the chine at frame two which has me a little stressed i have misplaced something. I hope it is a result of the chine flat not being in place yet and just a illusion.  I am looking to get the bottom on in the next few days and am gonna be thinking about how to deal with it on my own as that is how i roll :)

 

My wife also suggested that i post a few pics of a boat i have up for sale. It is a C-Dory Angler 22' from 1992. Lots of extras but is not the right kinda boat for round here and from what i see from a little research is more a north east or north west kinda boat. Sorry to be pimping myself out but have to keep wife happy right now :)

 

 

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