larky Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 My goal is to learn and get a small, light kayak for shorter trips, newer more than one hour at the time. I have had a "Point 65 martini" kayak for a while, and I want something smaller. My home built CNC in my small workshop have 665x486mm travel, 2.2kW water cooled spindle (8000-24000 rpm). I plan to use a 3mm drill bit so very small inner radius. I have access to premium grade 7 ply plywood, but only 9mm thickness and all sheets are smaller than 120x40 cm. I have converted the FreeB 12 measurements into a 3D model in Solidworks, and now I am reading and looking at pictures to see what features that can be included in the drawings before finalizing and creating dxf files for the CNC, some planning for foot rests, seat and such. I picked out the rearmost frame as the first test, as I believe it to be least likely to change during the design process. Glued two pieces of plywood with titebond iii, milled it out. The frame does not scare me that much, finding skin and some good translucent paint in Sweden or at least in EU does, but it is a long way to go before I have to worry about that. I do not plan to get it ready before the fall, it is for next year. I see this as a first low budget test to see if I can do it, and maybe take on a different model later. For now I would like some feedback on the drawings so far and if it is anything that I have missed out on. 18mm plywood, no sanding. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 I don't offer support the free designs, but I have to ask how you plan on sewing around that stern? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larky Posted July 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 I was planning to sew the fabric to the stern through i lot of small holes, but it is probably much more work then what it is worth. Cleaned up the design a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Tiger Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 I would not mess with that design at all. It is one of the nicest paddling little boats ever. I can't thank you enough, Jeff, for those plans. I wish I could still paddle like I used to, but I still take freeb out. Peace, Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larky Posted July 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 Yeah, I will follow the plans as much possible, most instructions are there for a reason! www.extremtextil.de carries a 310g/sqm nylon fabric that seems promising, "Uncoated, unimpregnated and uncoloured polyamide in plain white. Greige cloth polyamide is far easier to paint, print and coat. Perfect for building skin-on-frame boats: The fabric is smooth, shrinks under heat and has a very smooth surface. The edges tend to fray, cutting with heat can prevent this" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larky Posted July 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 Parts of the frame on grass! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larky Posted August 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2017 Frame on grass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larky Posted August 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 Paint test and coaming Tho coaming does not fit in my CNC, so each layer has to be made out of 4 pieces, joined together. Paint test I made two sets of two plywood circles, 100/130mm for the inner and 131.5/160mm for the outer. Clamped the nylon and tested painting with International Original Varnish, picture after 2 coats. I will put on another two coats and do some testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 As someone who is working basically with just hand tools, I find it interesting to see how this fully machined method of building is working. Certainly seems suited to this style of construction and gives a very nice finish. Also seems a fair bit faster, not that I'm jealous or anything ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larky Posted September 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2017 Well, I would not calling it a fully machined metod of production, just a guy working in a rather small garage with a few power tools and a home made CNC. But I am quite certain that I would never even have attempted this project without my CNC, in combination with 3D CAD to give myself a head start on the final shape of all the parts. No rework, everything fits the first time. My time estimate for the frame until ready for paint is 12-15 hours, plus about 5 hours computer time for preparations. This weekend I started working with the fabric. Still waiting for my ebay stainless nuts, bults and washers for the coaming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larky Posted September 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2017 Time for some paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larky Posted September 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2017 All done! Stainless steel protection for front and rear. In the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted October 2, 2017 Report Share Posted October 2, 2017 Looks good. What are you using for a seat? You seem to be sitting way to high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larky Posted October 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2017 I carved the under side of a two inch thick styrofoam board to match the floor, and the upper side is flat for now. Planning to carve out a bit to lower the COG, maybe about one inch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted October 2, 2017 Report Share Posted October 2, 2017 That is way to tall! Probably OK in this boat because it is so wide and so stable but obviously you don not fit inside it propertly. The seats I buy from Redfish are no more than 3/8" thick at the thinnest point. 1/2" of seat height can make a dramatic difference in stability. You want you bottom as low as practical, it really makes a dramatic difference in a narrower boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larky Posted October 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2017 I have planned to thin the styrofoam down to a butt shape something like 3/8" thick, but since first snow normally comes mid October time is tight. I did not think stability was a problem, but it will get even better with a low seat. This kind of CNC programming I normally do in Excel, easy to write formulas and then plot the result. The underside of the styrefoam was cut this way, see below. G0 F2800 X -197 Y 0 Z 5 G1 F1200 X -197 Y 0 Z -13 G1 F2100 X -48,5 Y 0 Z -6 G1 F2100 X -48,5 Y 0 Z -1 G1 F2100 X -6,5 Y 0 Z -1 G1 F2100 X -6,5 Y 0 Z -8 G1 F2100 X 6,5 Y 0 Z -8 G1 F2100 X 6,5 Y 0 Z -1 G1 F2100 X 48,5 Y 0 Z -1 G1 F2100 X 48,5 Y 0 Z -6 G1 F2100 X 197 Y 0 Z -13 G1 F2100 X 197 Y 0 Z -26 G0 F2800 X 197 Y 0 Z -26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet Posted October 10, 2017 Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 That translucent effect on the skin is very nice. How are you finding the paddling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larky Posted October 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 I only have 30 minutes in the water so far, and it has been raining every day since I took the pictures. I am expecting snow within a week or two, living at 64°N. I will lower the seat and find a way to secure the front floorboards, and a build a device to hoist the kayak under the garage roof for the winter. I hope to take one more trip before winter. Handling is good, and no problem at all with stability. Not to hard to turn. I like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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