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Alan Stewart

A "micro" tender for Carlita

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Alan Stewart    60

Graham's latest dink is a nesting 6' 6" tender that he will attempt to use with Carlita his Core Sound 17 Mark 3. It will just barely fit up on top of the cabin. Originally designed to go with the Outer Banks 20 as a tender for that boat allowing two people to row ashore and not have to beach the boat which can be tricky and often ends up with the boat high and dry or someone having to go for a swim. 

 

Two days ago Graham CNC cut the first sheet of parts out and 30 minutes later the boat was all zip tied together. I'll try to keep up with his construction with photos of the build. 

 

Here is the build album of the new "MICRO" which is essentially a slightly improved Catspaw "Mini" with slightly more freeboard and a bit more volume and will also be nesting. Graham will no doubt fill in some additional details here. 

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/lw3Sx6aUqGSlJ5dr1

 

 

-Alan

Micro construction.jpg

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frowley    4

Totally Love it! Can't wait to see it in the water, and bet I'll order one once I get my own boat in the water. You guys are awesome!

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Designer    161

Alex,

 

The tender does not interfere with the dodger. Now that it is summer I moved the dodger to the back burner. It is all done except for the sewing. 

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Only 1/2 hr to stich her up! You are making this too easy and now we will all have to build one. Noticed that you are using zip ties, will you be able to get them out after epoxy?

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Designer    161

I usually tack weld between the ties so that I can remove the ties without messing with hardened epoxy on either Ip ties or tie wire. One advantage with zip ties where they are strong enough to do the job is that sometimes you need to epoxy them in such as a corner that has a lot of tension and there is not enough space to avoid getting epoxy on them, just cut them smooth and leave them in.

 

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Paul356    21

I used mostly zip ties on my 17.  Used wire where I needed extra pull.  tack welded, like graham mentioned, then went over everything with the actual fillets.  worked very well.

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Designer    161

Pete,

 

The hull is made from 4mm ply and I could not go any thinner. I hate to say this early but I hope that each half of the boat will not exceed 25#. The assembled ply only hull weighed just 20#.

 

Instead of zip ties for most of the chines, keel and aft transom except for the high load areas I was able to hot glue it together, it saved a lot of time.

 

As soon as I can find someone to help, I will weigh her again now that the transom stiffeners and laminated gunwales are on.

 

In case you are wondering why I laminate the gunwales, I always laminate them on nested boats so that they do not spring straight when the boat is cut.

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Thrillsbe    62

Graham-- what's the purpose for the disc that's bonded to the center bulkhead, on the centerline of the boat.  Are you reinforcing this corner, since this corner sees impact loading?

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Designer    161

Chick,

 

I can't let you have all of the fun. By the way, I have not seen anything about your new motor canoe.

 

Don that round disc was to reinforce the nesting bulkhead hardware. We are now thinking of eliminating it.

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Chick Ludwig    110

Sorry guys, I've only had the motor canoe out once when we went camping awhile back. I only took a couple of pictures on shore. Guess I'd better post something on the building thread. I'll only be using it when I go camping.

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