Jump to content

Texas Spindrift 11N Build

Recommended Posts

After cutting strips of mahogany for the gunwales, I had enough material left to duplicate the breasthook and transom knees. Hopefully this will allow me to leave these pieces bright when the rest of the boat is painted.


This gave me a chance to finally use the compound feature of my compound miter saw.



Between screws and a few clamps I think I got things situated well enough for the epoxy.



Not quite sure if the angle is correct, but it seems okay.



Breasthook in place with clamps removed. I think I will remove the temporary screws before installing the gunwales.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I dug up every clamp I own and made a half-dozen more with wood and drywall screws. I installed the starboard side dry and then started on the port side. The two predrilled screws into the breasthook helped a lot, but it was still a challenge to get all three strips lined up. 






I left this to cure overnight. I tried to clean up the drips as much as possible but I think the underside of the gunwale has lots of extra epoxy. Maybe it will fill in any gaps that I have missed.


The next morning I did the starboard side. This time it went more smoothly.





I got all this done with no help. So now all my clamps are coated in epoxy.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wrapping your clamps (and tools) with plastic packageing tape can avoid a lot of goo chipping later.  This can leave adhesive gum on them, when you remove the tape, but spirits can remove it easily enough. A plastic bag taped to your cordless drill, is a big help too.

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Despite cleaning up underneath the gunwales, I still had to use a dremel and a sanding block to clean up the underside.  

Be sure to put enough permanent screws into the breathook and quarter knees as dictated by the plans.  I thought you were supposed to take all of the screws out and one of the gunwales broke free from the breasthook. 



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By William
      For want of a decent local plywood supplier I will be building in 5mm nidacore honeycomb sandwich, carbon outside, vectran and glass inside. If I can get my hands on some affordable basalt fabric I am sure I will find a few panels for it to feature. It is certainly not going to be as enjoyable as building in wood but at least I will get to learn a few new skills along the way. A lighter boat is almost a guarantee, but that all depends on how many laminates will give me the impact toughness I require. 
      I do have a partial sheet of nice 6mm ply and will cut the transom, mast partners and a few other small parts from that.
      The nidacore sheets are 7ft x 4ft, which, as fortune would have it, is just long enough to cut the main hull panels from 3 sheets, one being halved and butt-joined to the full sheets just like the plans for plywood.
    • By Luke
      Hi everyone, this is my first post--I've been lurking here getting lots of good info as I build and finally have a few questions myself!
      By now the boat is 3D and wired together. The hull, bulkheads, and transom all seem to fit well, and the boat has no twist in it that I can discern. Measurements from the peak of the bow to the corners of the transom are 109" +/- an 1/8", and sighting down the centerline, the tips of the nesting bulkheads "disappear" below the transom at the same time.

      I've made a number of spanish windlasses to pull the sides together between the forward and mid bulkhead, to pull out the 1/2" gap between the bottom and the bottom of the nesting bulkheads, to pull the forward bulkhead forward onto its lines, and lastly to try to flatten the bottom seam between bulkheads slightly to close a gap in the bottom panels.
      The question is how much of a gap along the keel seam is acceptable? It goes from no gap at the transom and widens to about 1mm around the nesting bulkheads, and up to a maximum of about 3mm halfway between the forward and mid bulkheads. I think the epoxy fillets will cover it just fine, but I just want to make sure it's not a symptom of a larger problem.
      Also, the plans don't really give dimensions to make a breasthook or quarter knees--do I just make these to fit the shape of the hull as it stands now? The instructions say the breasthook (included with the kit I suppose) is important to ensure the bow takes the correct shape--so what gives? The sheer lines look nice.
      Lastly, I centered the kerf gap of the nesting bulkhead on the "center frame" lines running down the sides--is that correct?
      Additional photos
      Looking aft:


      bow and gap

      forward bulkhead

    • By mjshp
      So the breasthook is in, gunwales are on and the quarter knees are secure. I have tacked togeter the panels between the wires! On to the next step of filet and tape.
      So last night I was laying everything out to fillet and tape the aft starboard chine, and doing some basic prep of the tack "welds"--pulling the wires and knocking down a few big bumps left over--to make the next step easier, and it occured to me, things would go much better if I could pull all the wires, prep all the seams and fillet, then tape the boat in one fell swoop.
      The question is, given that I have a small fillet of epoxy between every wire, can I take out all the wires and prep all the seams, or should I leave the wires in as I work on one seam at a time? I have visions of the boat poping apart as I remove the wires--oh the crazy visions that come from having never done this before.
      As always, thanks for the help and advice.
    • By mjshp
      Went to check twist and square, there is shy 1/16th difference in the centerline to outer edge of the hull, and the similar shy 1/16th from transom corner to bow.
      Is this shy 1/16th small enough to call it good or should try to work it out?
      What other dimenions should i measure to check the squareness and for twist?

 VigLink badge