Paul356 Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 Plans for my CS 17 call for the large Andersen bailer. Any thoughts on whether the inside or outside mount is preferred? This is the original 17 (mk I?), so the bailer is for actual bailing, not for filling water ballast. Photo is of outside mount. Thanks. --paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 This is how I did mine. Don't know if there's an advantage to either way. The upload of the interior shot failed. I'll try a second post for that photo. Nope. It won't go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 I have the one you show which I guess is outside mount. I milled out a recess with a router so the plate fits flush with the hull. No issues with the install or operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 I recessed the inside surface, and mounted from the inside out. The photos continue to fail to download. Pity. It would explain everything. But it mounts from the inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 Give me an email address, and I'll mail it to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 I did as Don did and plowed out a shallow rectangle for the bailer to live in, on the inside of the planking. Seemed the less draggy way to do it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 When it stops raining and snowing, I will post some photos of my install. Similar to others in that it is flush with the hull on the outside. I purchased a cheap palm router from Harbor Freight to carve a rectangular depression in which it sits flush with the hull, plus a little extra for epoxy coating and sealant (don't want that plywood edge getting wet.). My thinking is that I had put do much effort into rudder and centreboard shape, burnishing the paint, as well as adding a slot gasket to the centerboard hole, that it would be a shame to have a protrusion on the hull. Every knot counts when the distance is between you and the beer. New England weather stinks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Just for the sake of adding another 2¢ the original name of the bailer was "Elvstrom bailer" after the inventor Paul Elvstrom of dinghy racing fame, especially Finn Class. I was confused at first when I came to this forum and they weren't called that. http://rigrite.com/Hardware/Bailers/Elvstrom_Bailers.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt S. Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Thrillsbe, What bedding compound did you use for that? What about the screws? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Here are the photos. Apologies for the leaves, sticks, and twigs that are in the boat. Seems they tend to gather right near the bailer... Hoping to get the cover off next week, barring another snow storm, and giving the boat a good vacuuming. I put a layer of glass on the flange of plywood, and sealed the plywood edges with epoxy prior to mounting the bailer. The sealant is Boatlife polysulphide sealant. I use it on anything below the waterline that I may want to take apart again. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.