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Chespearl

CS 17 #191 build

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Chespearl    2

PAR,

Thank you for the paint tent photos and assembly tips. This looks like the way to go.

 

I'm rethinking my "order of operations" for painting the boat. I was planning to prime and final paint the interior and deck before I flipped the boat and glassed the hull. I'm thinking now that I should just do interior primer, then flip/glass/fair/prime the outside. Then I could erect a paint tent just for the top coats on the whole boat. I would still have to flip the boat inside the tent at least once but I have lots of help and overhead hoists. Sound reasonable? 

 

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LennieG    21

There are better voices than mine on the subject,  but I do not believe flipping the boat inside the tent is very practical. The boat flipping always seems to go easier than planned, but it takes some space and more than I see in the tent. I would suggest building the tent twice instead.

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PAR    188

Do all of your painting at once, though separating inside and outside is often necessary. If you're going to paint, there's no reason to leave anything in primer, for any longer then it takes to dry. Primers stain very easily, they absorb moisture, scuff and generally are easily damaged, just leading to more hair pulling, so get the top coats on, while setup for painting. Roll her over after the paint is dry for a week or more, to insure no marks. For most this means painting the outside, then rolling her over to sit in a cradle or on the trailer to finish up the inside. I usually paint the outside pretty quickly, but wait on the inside until the last moment, because there's always that one set of holes that'll need to be drilled right after you've finished with the pretty stuff, at least with my typical luck, planning and forethought.

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Chick Ludwig    111

You've said a mouthful, PAR!, "...  there's always that one set of holes that'll need to be drilled right after you've finished with the pretty stuff, at least with my typical luck, planning and forethought."

 

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Chespearl    2

PAR,

Thanks again. That is all great advice. I also read the "Painting" section on your website. Kudos to you for taking the time to write and share all that good info.

 

I see you are located in Eustis, FL. We happen to have two sailboats built in Eustis here at our museum in Solomons, MD. They were built by Earnest "Dick" Hartge, a well known Chesapeake Bay designer and builder who retired to Eustis in the late 1960s. Witch of the Wave is a traditionally built plank on frame livery boat. He built five or six of them in Eustis that he kept on the shore of his property to rent out and earn a little money. He actually prefabbed a lot of the parts here in Maryland and built the boats once he got set up in Florida. He called that design the "Breadwinner" class. Spirit is a much more interesting boat to sail. He built her in his 80s by and for himself. It was essentially his last boat as he only built one more smaller boat after that. She is strip planked and weighs about what a Lightning does, ~700 lbs. Hartge was well known for designing and building several winning boats in the Chesapeake 20 class. Spirit looks a lot like one of his Chesapeake 20s except Spirit is double-ended and 2 feet longer (22 ft LOD). Our boatshop did a restoration on her a couple years ago and she has a nice new set of sails. 

IMG_8001.thumb.jpg.23e95fc9d6c064d9086e9fa4bb91bc40.jpgIMG_8002.thumb.jpg.81f331fd951d4e264be15f590591e726.jpg

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PAR    188

The greats in society always seem to gravitate to the same places in life . . . ;) Spirit is a lovely thing. I wouldn't change a thing about her. The one thing I've found amazing about social media, is how truly small the word actually is.

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Chespearl    2

Progress (and learning) continues. My first attempt at making a mast tube did not result in a usable product. I used the method with the one inch wide strips of plastic arranged longitudinally underneath another wrapping of plastic. I made a few mistakes. First I figured since I needed a couple relatively short tubes I'd make one long one (about four feet long). I did not use new plastic and it was not 6 mil, more like 2- or 3 mil. I also wound my four layers of 10 oz glass tape on pretty tightly as I was wetting it out. Result: the cured fiberglass tube was not coming off my aluminum mast, no way, no how. I cut it into two pieces but no luck getting half of it off either. The one inch strips just stretched and broke. So after a phone call with Alan I cut the tubes off with a Fein tool and a chisel. 

 

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Second try I first wrapped the mast with wax paper, then only five non-overlapping one inch longitudinal strips of new 6 mil plastic, then a complete wrap of new 6 mil plastic. I laid the glass tape on with only moderate tension, smoothing it out with a chip brush spirally, starting in the middle and working toward each end. The result was amazingly different. The one inch strips pulled easily out the next day and the tubes slid right off. I faired them with epoxy and micro balloons and they are nice and smooth, inside and out. Due to Graham's superior design skills, the finished tubes mic out at 2.75 inches OD, an easy match for a readily available hole saw. 

 

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I also made the decision to go with the original arrangement for the main mast step and not put in a tabernacle. I think it will look better (subjective), and I really don't think I need the functionality that a tabernacle would give me. I am used to sticking masts in tubes from my Sea Pearl days and I don't plan on storing an anchor in the bow area. So here's a shot of my main mast step, using the ihandy level app on my phone to set the angle.

 

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This past week I got all my seat tops on and filleted and now I'm having a sanding party. 

 

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On a sad/happy (sappy?) note, our youngest daughter Emma spent some time at the shop this week with me working on the boat. She left yesterday for Navy Officer Candidate School in Newport, RI. Hopefully she will be launching her new career at the end of June, about the same time I hope to launch the boat.

 

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AmosSwogger    9

Thanks for posting the lesson learned on the fiberglass tube.  The sanding party sounds real fun; but I didn't receive my invitation in the mail.  It just so happens that I will out of town that day (or week) so unfortunately I won't be able to make it. 

 

Congratulations on your daughter being accepted to OCS. 

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SteveJW    0

Great to see the progress and see the things that don't go as planned.  

 

Hopefully I can remember the mast tube lesson when I start my build. 

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PAR    188

A local fellow was building a Core Sound and made the mast tube having the same, can't get it off the mandrel issues, other have had. He brought it to me and I cut off his biax wrapping with a diamond grit blade on an angle grinder. The wrapping looked good and  neat, so I simply repaired it with more biax, closing up the slot and wrapping it with more. He did need to open the king plank hole a touch, but it was a simple fix and it's just as stout as it would have been, had he been able to get it off the mandrel.

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LennieG    21

Reading your thread and struggle on the mast tube, I suspect that directions/plans on my CS 370 were advanced considerably from the same that you received when you got started. I followed the directions and had no issues. Understandly these things evolve and improve, and I recommend that you get yourself an updated set of "instructions".

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Paul356    22

That looks really sharp.  People don't realize how much work that involves.  Good trick running the king plank across the hatch opening in one piece.

Spoiler

 

 

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Chespearl    2

Thanks Paul. Full disclosure: that is the way I did the king plank the second time. First time I figured one long piece bridging the hatch would be best to ensure a fair deck line but I happened to have two short pieces of 1x4 at hand ... anyway despite careful clamping they were not satisfactorily aligned when the epoxy cured. So I sawed 'em out and did it again. As our shop boatwright says: "It's just a piece of wood..."

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Chespearl    2

Got lots of stuff done this week:

 

Got the deck framing all planed to receive the decks.

 

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Put in the "epoxy tunnel" forward mast tube drain.

 

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Got the decks all glued on and trimmed. I used temporary drywall screws around the gunwales and on the king plank, lots of weights everywhere else.

 

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Then with a little help from my friends, we did the rollover today.

 

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Chespearl    2

I've been covering the outside of the hull with 6 oz. fiberglass cloth. I'm also using 100% polyester fabric from Joann Fabrics as peel-ply, which works very well. The specific fabric I'm using is white Sunline Anti Static Linings FabricItem #: 1431766. Joann always has a variety of coupons and sales so I got this for $4.00 per yard, 58 inches wide. Ten yards will do the hull.

 

Here is a photo of one side of the hull covered with glass and peel ply. The glass was one continuous piece but I had to lay the peel ply in sections.

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Here is the peel ply being removed.

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Here is the hull after the peel ply has been removed.

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Here is the hull after scraping the peel ply seams.

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Here are my indispensable tools, my ProPrep scrapers, unfortunately no longer made. They make short work of scraping epoxy, especially when green.

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